Tinman

Creative solution, but I'll save that as a last resort. Anyone else?

Well I'm doing some suspension and brake work on the beater 7 and the rotors are siezed to the hubs, already tried penetrating oil and a big hammer but no luck with that so far. So if anyone has a press I could use I would realy appreciate it. North or east side would be nice but at this point I won't be picky.

+1

Be sure to check for a backup nut, it would be just below the knob. It locks down the knob to keep it from backing off and allows it to be indexed in any direction. If you find one simply thread it further down the shifter and the knob will easily spin off.

Just about anything that ever came in another k-car platform vehichle. I have seen a 2.2 turbo II swap in a minivan. and yes the 3.0 is a mitsu.

Jerico

I hope your not talking about cutting a metal fuel line, slipping some rubber hose over it, and using hose clamps. If it's fuel injected there will be to much pressure, If it's carbuerated all you need to do is remove the hose and double flare the metal line. I have a double flare kit your welcome to borrow.

You've got a PM

I can help you out. If you are willing to do everything but the welding it will be pretty cheap, but if you need me to do all the work it will push the cost up some.

Don't know if this helps or not but Factory Five, Cobra kit car manufactuer, offers a kit that inables you to use the old single spin off nuts on the Mustang.

You can get alot more grunt with a blue bottle smile.gif But seriously, I'd go with a motorsports cam. They are engineered for their specific application where as some other grinds are a sbc grind on a ford core.

If you want 4.10s now is the time. Replacing the pinion seal requires removing the pinion yoke, and yes the driveshaft also. next to setting up a new ring and pinion removing the pinion nut can sometimes me the most difficult step in a gear swap.

Help, I need a longer alternator belt for the Rx7, problem is it's a small 3 rib serpintine belt 24" long, I need 26". Anyone know of a Goodyear retailer around here, I know they probably won't have one in stock but I'd like to order it right away so it will be here by next weekend.

First invest in a vacume pump, around $30. Then remove the master cylinder cap, top off with fluid and starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder place vac. pump hose over the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder and start pumping away. Pump untill only clean fresh fluid comes out, watch for air bubbles. Tighten screw before removing vac. pump hose. Continue around the car working your way closer to the master cylinder. Ooh, and be sure to have a little fluid in the bottom of the vac. pump canister before starting. And most importantly make sure you don't pump the master cylinder dry, top it off often. If your not willing to pop $30 for a pump your welcome to borrow mine.

If you heli-arc the flange on with a high nickle filler rod, take care to pre heat the manifold, and let it cool down slowly it will work fine. But that still leaves the mismatched holes to deal with. An adapter would probablly be the best bet if space allows.

Be sure to check the relay also, but you already knew that.

I'd be happy to show you a few things.

Do you golf? If so golf tees make great temporary vacume plugs.

Vacume leak?

Yes, Hurst and a couple of other places make floor shifters for old three speeds, but I believe they are all "fits most applications" you know what that means.

If it's a column shift the linkage has a tendincy to bind up.

It's a good thing, aren't the faulty muffler bearings what cause the pintos to explode on impact?

Let me know if you need to borrow my left handed screw driver.

Since you have no brake lights it sounds like the brake light switch also controls the shifter lock. Easy fix, test the switch, if broke, replace.

Couldn't have said it better myself.