Tulo

I have a 99 GSR. Whenever I drive it really hard(red-lining etc.) the check engine light will come on. At that point it tends to run like crap. My air/fuel gauge will read rich instead of bouncing back and forth like normal. The idle also raises up and the car just doesn't run good. It runs like this until I turn the car off and restart it. How can I make this go away? BTW, I have i/h/e, and a v-afc. Thanks for any help you can give. Btw, I am throwing: P1298 - Manaf air/fuel meeting P0108B - Map/Baro Circuit Highlight (<--my handwriting got illegible there,sp?)

http://www.mymonte.com/forum/images/smiles/wavey.gif interested

Ever since I put my VAFC on, I get the CEL all the time. And I've noticed that after "heavy acceleration", that it seems to go into limp dick mode, and doesn't run well. If I turn my car off, then restart it, it's good again. Anyways, I heard I can get a O2 sensor simulator that will send a normal O2 signal to my computer(since the one it's sending now is different from stock due to mods). Where can I get one of these and what kind do I need? Thanks. -JP

You might have to take it to a dealership or something. If the airbag is broken, the light won't go off until it's fixed.

Well, I returned the lights. The store didn't give me any trouble taking them back, so that was cool. I'm going to pick up a new set tomorow and try again. This time, I think i'm going to run the red wire to the fuse box and wrap it around one of the fuses, or run it to the acc. on my radio. Hua - I tried plugging a spade into one of the slots in my fuse box, and that didn't work at all. How are those slots supposed to work? I was thinking, and I pulled the original switch off(it was soldered on), so that I could get the wires through the wirewall. I ended up using a different switch once I got it through. Maybe that had something to do with my problems? I found a hole in the firewall that I can fit the switch through, so i'll try that too.

APC

I'm returning the lights... I had a couple mechanic friends help me with them and we tried a million different things(even tapping into the fuse box,and blew that fuse too), and nothing worked. When I got the lights, the box was kind of messed up and it didn't look like they were packaged real well, like they had been returned. Could the relay or some other component of them been broken and that's why wherever I hook it up to, I blow fuses? I might exchange it for another one or I might just say fuck it and get my money back. Could it be a lemon?

So I can just take the red wire off my parking lights, and splice it into my red head unit wire? Would it be better to tap into the fusebox? I don't really understand how you do that, though. Are you saying to use a spade connector and put it where a fuse should go?

Here we go(it's not to scale) http://www.angelfire.com/ak5/jpv04/Fog_Light_Diagram.JPG -The white wire with the fuse that I ran to the battery is thicker than the rest and came with a ring connector thing like I drew on my grounds already on it. First of all, wtf is a relay?? So now that I actually see how everything is wired, I guess I only have to run the red wire from the switch to a different source. But where? [ 07. January 2004, 05:51 AM: Message edited by: Tulo ]

Scratch what I linked up there, It's not what I have. I'll try and draw a diagram when I get a chance.

btw, it's not the fog light fuse I'm blowing, It's the parking light fuse. And this last time, my dash lights went out also. I don't know what the deal is.

These are pretty much what I have. http://www.performancestyleattitude.com/support/drivinglights/drivinglights_install.pdf

I put fog lights on my car, and now i'm blowing fuses left and right. They didn't come with instructions so I just did it as best I could. They'll work for a while, then the fuse will blow. I ran the red wire to my parking lights. The white wire to my positive battery. Three black wires to the body frame. Can all of the black wires be grounded at the same bolt? Does one need to go to the negative side of my battery? Thanks. -JP [ 06. January 2004, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: Tulo ]

graemlins/nonono.gif let the flaming begin....

just makin sure Thanks again.

So i'll be ok with the 8ga right??

Thank you!! You guys kick ass!

There's so many freakin choices! I don't know what the fuck to get!

Will this one work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3067779178&category=32808 I'm sure there's a reason why it's so much cheaper....but what?

Will this be everything I need? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3035040313 Thanks. -JP

For $20 more, I can get the 450wrms 451s. Would that be bad for the sub?

Can you guys help me find a wiring kit on ebay? I'm not really sure what to look for. What gauge do I need, 8? Thanks. -JP

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all your help. smile.gif

The Rockford Fosgate I was lookin at was gona be about $130. So I guess i'm lookin to spend no more than $150. Thanks for the help.

I just got a DEI Studio 3124 12" 400w RMS 4 OHM single VC sub-woofer and I need to get an amp for it. Would it be best to get an amp that is also rated at 400w RMS? Right now i'm looking at the Rockford Fosgate Punch 401S. It's bridged RMS power is rated at 400w x1. Would this be a good match? Thanks. -JP