SHIEF

All you little fuckers get away! We thought of this first!

Your going in the right direction. You get the parts from China, then send them to Mexico (or the southern US), pay some mexicans $1.13/hour to build these vtec boxes. Instead of the speaker saying "vtec yo shizzle, etc." Have it come on and go "I got Vtec YAYY" then have some neons flash around the outside of the box, with the Ja Rule F&F song in the background. graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

I'll be waiting for your $100 system then I'll buy it because I am a ricer, and want something tIgT made by Neo (yo). Make one for a 240 as well. tongue.gif

Ok well I'll wait for 'Neo's stand alone' tongue.gif

Whatever ^^^ Yeah you can make vtec engage whenever you want just by the push of a toggle switch button, but that would (and was) getting anoying and graemlins/gay.gif I got vtec button YAYYY...I got vtec button YAYYY!

I have one for sale if someone wants it $185 (couple of marks on it, nothing big). Have directions and box. Super easy to tune with, and I think you can go as low as 4000 on vtec. Not sure now though. I had mine set at 4600 in the CRX.

I guess I'd have to hear or see it to know. Next thing I'd check out would be the idle air conrol valve (if it has one), the tps sensor, and maf sensor if it has one. Oh, and there are no check engine lights right? I dunno what else to tell you without seeing it myself. Hope you get it figured out, keep us posted.

If they have oil on them, then you need to change the valve cover gasket, and the little rings that go around the spark plugs. Any word on your problem yet?

Yeah I'd go with an oil cooler kit. I'd go with Earl's oil cooler but you have to buy everthing else (lines, fittings, etc.) B&M makes a kit as well, but the cooler itself isn't as big as the Earl's one. As for the barrings, just buy a turbo timer and that will take care of the cooked oil situation and you still don't need the coolant lines. Your turbo wouldn't last much longer at all, as long as you change your oil regularly and use some decent oil.

+ 1 Most aftermarket turbos are just oil cooled. IMO just oil cooled turbos seem to work better. Coolant lines are just a bunch of hassle.

Go through the basics that could cause this. If it was my car I'd check spark (like you said). Then go fuel because it sounds like your not getting enough fuel. Change the fuel filter, you'd be amazed at what that can do for an older car.

Double pwns me

That is not correct. While backfires on a turbo aren't good, it's perfectly fine to spray (smaller shot) before the turbo, if using a dry kit. Many import (actual drag only race cars), are doing it on a daily basis. I've seen 2 in person that are running anywhere from a 30-50 shot to get a T-78 to spool on a 1.6. It depends on what your going for. If you want the turbo to spool then go before the turbo (based on your setup that won't be needed), if you just need a a shot to get ahead of the guy then go however you want. Nothin like spraying to get ahead of the guy just to dump him at the finish line and break him out

Sounds like you need to get some money back, then go through the motor. Something is very wrong and you just need to take the motor apart, then put it back together so you know it's right with new stuff.

A carb would never cause that. I'd start checking clearances, and making sure those crank barrings are the right ones. Also check the crank journals and make sure theres nothing in them so oil can get to those barrings, or they might spin or seize up, this will cause your rods to bend or break.

If it's the switch assembly, sometimes you can take the hazard button and work it on and off (about 6 or 7 times). Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't, if not then you know what you need.

Yup you have to bypass the clutch switch. IMO it's not worth it, trust me. Me and another guy did it at the shop (took awhile, kind of a wiring nightmare). Kid gets in the car (it was a civic) starts it, forgot his phone. Shuts car off and left in 1st, after we told him he had to leave it in neutral, goes back out and uses the remote. Bam! Hits car in front of his, then he looks around to see who saw..and we all did. Moral: don't do it!

Hehe graemlins/thumb.gif

So what fixed it?

You should've brought it to Maverick Motors, it's where I work (dad owns it), honest work and we won't be like "oh and it needs this, and this" just what needs to be fixed and not overcharged for doing nothing, like we usually get out there from customers who took their car somewhere else first. Have a very good reputation if anyone knows the name then they'll tell you. Not trying to advertise here or anything (I don't get paid enough to). It's just west of 310 and 40, can't miss the place # 740-927-3549 ask for Sam, if anything comes up. -Brandon

Yeah I just saw it today, damn you! Yeah I think that's the route I'm goin amp it is, eventhough I don't want to, but I like this head unit so...

Good call Benny. It's your idle air control (valve, sensor). It does what it says, controls air going in your intake at idle. Is the cars' idle off i.e. too fast or too slow, does motor cut out? Or do you just have a check engine light? Find this and check the sensor itself, if ok, take it off and clean the whole unit (take it apart and use brake cleaner on it). Alot of times these clog up with crap going into your intake and cause your light to come on or gives your car a false idle. If this doesn't work after resetting codes (if there are any), then you need to replace it. Hope this helps mang.

Heat sink? Not sure what you mean by that. As for the other, my friend had it in his car but with a system probably 85% of the time and when he took it out of his car. I know it worked w/o an amp when he first got it before the system and he knows what he's doing. He's just not sure about this. So it worked fine with the aftermarket amp hooked up. I thought about the interal amp, I looked at it but only outside of it. Is there a way to tell whether it's the internal amp or the internal outputs? Can I even get an internal amp for it? If so how much do you think that would be?

I posted somethin like this in buy section for a amp, so I'll put it here too. I have a Kenwood mini-disk player (car)and when you hook a amp up to it sound comes out of the speakers fine. When you just try to use the stereo without a amp then you get no sound from speakers. I called Electrasound and they said it could be outputs (inside the stereo I'm thinkin). Starting price just to start fixing 1 output is $220, fuck that. I took the circuit board out of it and saw no blown channels or anything, no weird black or brown marks anywhere. If anyone can help let me know. Thanks- Brandon

B16's have been around since 80's (crx's) in Jap land. Maybe other cars as well.