SHIEF

I'm not saying the STB's don't work (obviously they do), I just think it would help stiffin the chasis if it was done that way. Ahh who cares......Hoosier > *

Car is lookin nice. +1 on the pain to work on. On the strut tower bar I have a question. I never really understood why people put that single bar across the engine bay. You might notice a slight difference, but imagine the difference if that bar was triangle. As in a bar going across the center with 2 other bars going from each shock tower to the center of the engine bay/firewall. This would make it work better considering your centering the weight. I see you don't really have the room for this, but it's somethin to think about.

Hahahaha....this kid will own the Jedi-kid in no time

Car looks sweet. Those buildings are diagonal from my dad's shop, good place for pics.

It could've been worse. It could've had the newer "Hemi" badges on it. It'll happen, give it a lil time.

+999999999999999

I was on my way back from IPS today (met Ricky and Jeff, both nice guys graemlins/thumb.gif ), and I'm going down Main St. and see a 90ish black Mustang with a cowl scoop on it, blah blah. I look at the side of it and see a nice GTR badge above the 5.0 redface.gif This guy is probably late 30's, probably someone's dad (hopefully not here tongue.gif ). When will the good ol' Type-Argggh stop?

If there are no weights welded on it then it is just a shim as Grass said. It's kinda like a flywheel plate cover (on the bottom). You can put it back on if you really want to.

Forget that guy. He charges out the ass, and you have to get on his 'waiting list' last I heard.

Thanks for that link. I think, depending on price, I've found my answer.

Been lookin...nothing.

Yeah I'm needing something that will basically wrap around my radiator for a straight shot toward my intake and turbo, with the end tank pipes coming out the top. I took some rough measurements today something like 25" L (with end tanks), 13" H, 2-2.5" D.

I'm needing an intercooler for the 240, but I'm not finding anything that will work for my setup that I want. If I can just get the core and then endtanks seperate, that would even work. Or if someone can just get the whole thing that would work too. If anyone knows where I can go to get something like this done, let me know. Thanks.

Yeah I won't and refuse to go with a JWT ecu. $600 for a JWT, hell I'm almost halfway to a stand-alone for that price. I've heard enough stories to not go with a JWT ecu. They set the ecu's up to run rich so they don't have any liability when someone blows their engine up. That way no one can say "The JWT blew my car up".

"AEM is saying they will have a system out in 10 months for KA's" This is not for da SR20, I know it sounds crazy smile.gif If I was going the SR20 route, I'd go with the FC.

Yeah a friend of mine (before he became a punk biatch) had the AEM in his H22 Accord, and I like the way that system was setup. AEM is saying they will have a system out in 10 months for KA's. I'm thinking I should just wait for that, and piggy-back the best I can until then. I'll just use the ol' distributor to retard timing, because I don't wanna shell out the money for the MSD boost retard box setup if I'm only going to use it for a little while.

I'm piecing my turbo kit together, and adding up the numbers and thinking I should just go with a stand-alone, but I'm not sure. Since I'd be doing my dyno stuff around here, I was wondering what do you import buffs/dyno tuners think. What's the best/easiest/cost efficient system to use? This will be on my 89 240 with the Sohc KA.

A vafc will change vtec settings. A safc will not.

graemlins/nonono.gif

I don't see a problem with 13 psi on stock block at all. As long as you have good stuff on it (fuel, wideband, boost control) then it shouldn't be a problem.

It's simple, if they start to cause the "I paid, I can do what I want", you give them a couple warnings then ban them. What are they going to do? Taking you to court really isn't an option. The 'I'm gonna kick your ass' card won't work either since I'm pretty sure people on here will have whoever's back. If it really comes down to it, yeah just give them their money back. What's $10 anyway? Hell you spend almost 10 bucks buyin your wack-it lube.

I agree with the pay $10 fee if you want to view everything on the board, or become a memeber. This will sift out the wannabes, or the people that just want to contribute useless crap and negativity on every post they have. But allow the non-paying guests to view the For Sale boards so we can still get some word out of what's for sale, so we can put that money to whatever we need. So that $10 fee will basically pay for itself if you sell something outside the CR board. Do what you gotta go Anthony to make the board right.

Americas Army. That is all.

Oh hells naww, don't take it to Jason unless you want 'orange peel' as your paint. Just messin Jason, he does good work so don't worry. It's Brandon down at Maverick. I'll have to check out the Stang sometime.

Maka me a sandwich bish