The older diesels run fine on the ulsd. The sulfer being removed causes the fuel to not lubricate like the older fuel. If you want to check and see if you need to add lubricants to your diesel fuel instead of taking people's word on it call Columbus Diesel Supply. They will tell you what you need to know about the new fuel. 614-445-8391
spark plug were changed the day before it started missing so ill start by rechecking the gap. (NGK iridiums) I also will probably pull the ECU out and check to see if there is anything visibly wrong with it.
This car has a rebuilt engine in it and it ran fine for 700 miles. Now it is missing under normal or hard acceleration. If you accelerate lightly it runs smooth. Any ideas? This car is a 1990 Eagle Talon N/A and only has the balance shafts removed with an eliminator kit and a K&N filter.
1990 Eagle Talon n/a basically stock except the balance shafts are removed and the engine mounts are prothane. It also has a k&n filter. no hacks in the maf, nothing done to the ecu.
I am going to try to make it at least once to try the autox. My car will probably suck though. I would like to know how the cars are classed and what class my car would be in. Thanks! 1990 n/a Eagle Talon. Let me know what other info I need to give if you can help me figure out what class it would be in.
Im just saying the only difference between the turbo and non turbo block itself is the oil squirters. They are the same strength and will both handle boost. I was only trying to give more options and by the way I am not a noob when it comes to a DSM or anything diesel.
The blocks are the same other than the squirter's. They both use the same rods, head, and crank. You can also run a non turbo block with a turbo on it with out the squirters. There are plenty of DSM race engines doing that. I would use the turbo oil pan though since there is a place in it for the oil to return. This might give you some more options for looking for what you need.
Frankilin county is still under a level 2 snow emergency so hopfully I wont have to go to work today either. Fwd talon here. It absolutly sucks in the snow.
you dont need the bs belt anymore and you are correct GMoney you do need to pull the oil pump and put in the adapter that eliminates the shaft. also i would like to recomend that you replace your hydraulic tensioner when doing the timing belt. Just a suggestion.
I told boyd and ken about the same thing. I told him he better have proof before he went any farther talking about even a possiblity that i was involved or i was going to get them both on slander.
Advance Auto Parts is a horrible place to work especially if you are under that idiot for a district manager Ken Winters. He will screw you any way he can! I used to work at the one on cleveland and 161. I was held at gun point twice and he fucking fired me because he thought I was involved. Then he covered his ass by saying that I broke a company rule that he put into effect the day after I was fired! They also are laying people off at the one on 161 and busch so they really have no call hiring new people since they need to transfer in the ones that were laid off first! Yes i am biased on this subject but i dont want anyone else screwed over by this company! I am just saying that if you want to get a job here watch your back because there isnt anyone else in that company that will no matter how good of a worker you are.
NEVER do just the belt in these cars. one little problem in the timing system or even the installation and you are replacing or completly rebuilding the engine. Its not worth trying to save the money!