WideOpenThrottle

I bought a 2004 2500 Cummins a few weeks back and the boy said it had a vacuum leak and the 4WD wasn't working but when you jack it up and spin the front wheels the transfer case makes a knock noise at about the same points of spin. I've looked for a used transfer case but apparently they are like gold; I can find the newer (08) Ford 271 transfer cases for $200. But the cheapest Dodge one I've found is $750 and $1000 Remaned. My cousin who has several of same truck, owns a excavating company, said he use to get them for $350-$400 all day until he got all new 2011 2500's and hasn't had the issue. So the question is, am I better off getting mine rebuilt or does anyone know someone who can get one cheaper?

I don't see how some dealers are able to give killer deals on them like for $21,000 and we have to pay so much more. Supply and demand.., http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=45690&endYear=2014&driveCodes=4WD|AWD&transmissionCode=MAN&doorCode=4&transmissionCodes=MAN&maxPrice=21000&mmt=[JEEP[WRANGLER[]][]]&doorCodes=4&modelCode1=WRANGLER&driveCode=4WD|AWD&sortBy=mileageASC&showcaseOwnerId=69342&makeCode1=JEEP&startYear=2007&maxMileage=75000&searchRadius=0&listingId=337504644&listingIndex=1&Log=0

That's the kind of deal I'm looking for! lol I don't mind to have a base because I intend on replacing the suspension and wheels. And it MUST be a 6 spd.

No I have not! I've never used truecar.com or know anyone who has! I'll give it a shot! Thanks

So I've decided to get a 2013 Wrangler Unlimited. I found some outside Washington, DC but hate to fly out just to buy a Jeep. I know some of you guys work at dealerships and such; and I'm wondering if you have any similar deals going on or close to their price. I do want a stripped down version bc of what I plan on doing to it. MSRP $27,755 Adjusted Price $21,755 Bodystyle 4 door SUV Engine 3.6L V-6 cyl Transmission 6-Speed Manual Ext. Color Black Int. Color Black The Adjusted Price includes all factory rebates, a recent graduation discount for college graduates ($500 factory rebate from Chrysler/$500 discount from Lustine), and a Military factory rebate ($500) but does not include a destination charge ($750-$995), tax, tags, processing fee ($399) or other charges. So that's 2500 additional so around 24,500. Anyone around here compare to these prices?

For what year?

I won't lie, I'm feeling the Skylark! Time for some research!

Alright, I have a built 350 and T56 I've been dying to put into something, I hate to inbreed cars so I refuse to put it into a Ford. I'm looking to spend around 5K, I've been searching for a 1G Camaro but I cannot find a good deal on a roller that doesn't need frame replaced. I'm willing to do floors and quarters and basic sheet metal work. If you find me a good deal I'm more than willing to throw out a finders fee

It will need to match a Fox harness, 89 to be exact.

Good looking out on the C&L I hadn't seen that one in my hunt for one! I just emailed him!

Bump, I'll buy 42 and MAF if you don't want to sell just the MAF. I need this ASAP

I'm looking for a MAF to match 42 pound inj so I can get my Mustang tuned. Any one have one laying around for a decent price?

Bump New Price! $650

It's a 2001 Civic LX 1.7 I thought that was it and tried Google-ing it with no avail. I will replace the radiator this evening and hope it works. I'll keep ya posted. I didn't wanna dive into replacing the water pump right away

The first problem I experienced with this car was overheating while not moving at 40mph or above. When I would stop at a light, or in traffic, the car would get hot. If I was moving at a decent speed, the temperature would come back under control. The fans were kicking on at the right times and The first time I took it to a shop couldn't really see any problem, so they reccommended a coolant flush, thermostat and radiator cap replacement. I did that, and it seemed to deal with the issue for a few weeks. After that, it slowly started acting the same way... The problem has been on and off and can drive 4 hours consistently without it overheating but when I stop at a light some times it stays cool and others it will run hot? Any guesses?

That's answers my questions perfectly! I know no numbers are guaranteed, but those work. Like I said it's essentially a stock GT40 with full bolt-ons. Nothing special and no high expectations. One last question, how much does it cost to upgrade to the 67BB? On e-Bay it says UPGRADING TO THIS (76mm): $179 if you are purchasing a 5.0 kit

I'm thinking I'm going to go with the 67mm BB then! I will be no where near the numbers the 76 is putting out. I don't want a lot of lag and efficiency is key! Chad, what is the typical numbers you see out of each turbo?

You could always bug bomb it (at Wal-Mart for 15-20 bucks) Shut the doors for a day or two and the aerosol should spread throughout. Then the next day most are pet safe, so if you'd air it out for a day or so it may work ? Just a redneck idea

Shoot me some offers, I want this gone ASAP

I have pictures of the motor I can text ya, just pm me your number.

I have a 351W Roller from a mid 90s truck that has 9x,xxx miles on it. Complete from intake to oil pan and have distributor, harness, and computer. Very well maintained truck and ran great when pulled. Got new trucks and scrapped the old. IDK what they're worth butl Ill say $650 for everything or shoot me an offer. Worst I cam say is no thanks

Thanks for all the input. I believe GMoney is right in keeping RPMs down is the way to save the 5.0 blocks and increasing the boost pressure and keeping the RPMs low to make more power is the safest way. Matt, I don't think a person can have too much horse power and I wouldn't mind laying down 550WHP, I was trying to be modest with my numbers expectations. I think with it being a BB turbo that spooling will not be as much of an issue, I'll have to check with Chad and see what AR the exhaust is on the 76BB.

I only know one person who runs the kit and his car is pretty beast and is in the mid 10's. Is anyone running the 67BB and 76BB on GT40 motors and what kind of number? There's only a thirty dollar difference in price, so I say why not go big? Wouldn't lower PSI be better on the turbo, and still put out good HP numbers? And most 5.0 blocks give around 550 but I've seen them hold over 600 for months before. It all depends on how well they are built and if you're lucky!

I'll do some research. I was hoping to see if anyone .as some first hand experience with the turbos and their results. Thanks for the insight

From my understanding those are more like upgrade prices. Like the base is what comes with the kit most places probably charge 350 for and then you pick the 76BB so the take the original 350 plus the 419 and thats essentially the price you're paying is 769. At least that's ny understanding