rb26deet32

Lovers wanna love...

If you want to fix it for sure go and buy a new head gasket and valve cover gasket along with any bolts you want/need to replace and just remove the head. If your motor is anything like a 302 (which I' pretty sure it is) then you just have to remove your intake, upper and lower intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover and then loosen the rockers enough so you can remove the push rods and then take off the head and take out whatever is inside. Even if it takes you a long ass time I highly suggest doing this. Do you really want to ruin your engine because a pea sized little magnet? I know I wouldn't. Go buy a Haynes manual and take your time doing it. And remember to keep your push rods in order. You don't want to mix up any of the valve train components or they'll wear out fast as hell. And depending on how many miles are on the truck I'd suggest replacing the other head gasket while your at it. Just make sure you don't touch the crank or timing chain during all of this. Once you get the new gasket just make sure you set your valve lash correctly and you should be good. I'm sure there are tons of people on here that will help you if you decide to go this way. Just the thought of a magnet sitting on top of a piston doesn't make me feel too good. lol

Didn't even think about that. :funny: At least now he can swap in some over night parts from Japan and drink anything he wants as long as it's a Corona:burn:

We need to stop all the vdub on vdub violence. But yea $50 on Shanton.

This is by far the fastest way to swap a motor.

that stuff is hilarious.

Best electric violinist I've ever seen.

Nah, just wanted to buy a shell. I have a k24 and some boost ready. Just need a shell. Now I'm thinking Ksight???

lol, thats what the guys at work tell me. I would never imagine buying account in the first place unless it were for $15 because that is how much it costs for 1 month. So that would actually be worth it. But I gotta say. I love when stupid kids get their parents to buy them a $2,000 cartoon character for a damn video games. I just bought hondata s300 and a new turbo for what I sold my shaman for. And before I sold him I was at about 70 hours. So I made about $13.00/hour for playing a damn video game. My warlock was $16/hour...My warlock that I still have wont get me anything since it was my first toon WAY back in the day. But he will sell for the most.

yea thats true. And no I don't cheat. I use programs that you are allowed to use and from that you get pvp honor shananigans. But having honor doesn't do anything if you aren't actually good at the game. Every toon I have is in BG 9 which is with out a doubt the most competitive battle group. And I've been at least 2,200 in every bracket. My warlock was 2,800 in 2's 2,615 in 3's and 2800 in 5's. I still have him btw if anyone wants to spend about $2k they can buy him and have him... there are still weeks before the season is over so pretty much anyone could face roll with him. The only time I spend playing is the first week of the new season. I spend maybe one day. From then on I just do arena with each toon and then autobg on my 3 computers. If you every autobg to get gold it's illegal and your account will get deleted or banned. But doing it for honor is all good.

yea, that's just about right. I "play" the game now like it's my job. Luckily I have 3 toons and they are all "playing" right now...Gotta love taking advantage of game mechanics

whats your toons name? Try out buymmoaccounts.com if you wanna make some really easy money. You get about $150 for a naked lvl 80 last time I checked. I've sold 8 so far and have made just over $7k. And just an fyi, no one really cares about pve gear since it's so easy to get. Anyone can push a few buttons in a 25 man and get a drop. I'd suggest before getting rid of it get arena gear. It's harder to do now since you cant autobg. But my shaman just hit 80 the first week of the new patch and I just sold him for $858 after paypal took their cut. and I put about 48-72 hours into him at 80. I sold him with only pvp gear. That's why I didn't get that much. If I would have spent more time playing this horrible game and get the gay pve gear it would have been over $1k. My warlock last season was 1st in every bracket and went for $1,800 by himself. Any gold you have is also a plus. That shit is worth something like $10 for 150g. Also, all the gay pve crap gear and types of mounts, professions kind of help out. If you are gonna sell it, I'd do it soon. Once the expansion hits all the nerdtards are gonna buy it and nerdgasm all over it and a lvl 80 wont be worth shit.

Screw it, going with an ek.

Your welcome

Check your fuel pump, injectors. Also how long has it been since you've changed your plugs and wires? Also what kind of ignition are you running? If stock, how many miles are on it. And are there any metal shavings inside? Does the car have a rough idle when you cold start it? Or can you turn it on and it just idles a little high? If it does idle like crap I'd mess around with the iac sob. It's been a while since I've had a fox but I remember having to move that sob around slightly to get more or less voltage for something. lol, can't remember what it was for but it's the cylinder guy right on the throttle body on the top side. There is one screw and you get loosen it and adjust it slightly. Just make sure you check the voltage while your doing it or you could just make it worse.

lol, I'm not sure why but that made me laugh my ass off. I guess I'm just in a good mood since everything is on and running like a champ. I got the new turbo today and was talking to the guys at Columbus Diesel for a while and my buddy that was with me and what everyone agreed on a few things. First thing is is to take out my fuses, drain old oil and pour in some cheap synthetic oil just to flush the system without the turbo hooked up. Turn over the engine for a while and then drain the new...old, oil out and put in the expensive shit. Now install the turbo, hook up oil feed line and turn that bad boy over til you see a good amount of oil coming out of the return. Then wait for a few seconds. Then do it again til you get a stream of oil coming out into my oil change tub thingamajigger. Hook up return line and then turn over the car with everything hooked up for 15 seconds. Do that about 5 times and then let the car sit. Do it again after about 5 minutes a few more times. Now, put the fuses back in and turn that pos on. Let it idle til it's up to temp. Then immediately turn it off. Let it cool down (took forever) turn it on again and let it warm up and let it idle at normal for 10 minutes. Turn it off again...After it cools down again turn it on and drive at a steady speed completely off boost like a grandma with downs for a few minutes. Then turn it off. Then go out and drive around like normal on very low boost. In between check for random leaks. And finally, drive the shit out of it and I did for a while. Wasted about 3/4 of a tank. On my old turbo I was running 14psi on wastegate. Now, since I got my evc I'm running 9psi for a few days. And since this turbo is ball bearing and my last one wasn't, along with the turbo being crap it actually feels just as fast on 9 as it did on 14. But after next week I'll be running 28psi finally :bangbang: Now I'm just hoping this turbo can make the power I want without crapping out.

That makes sense. Luckily I'll have a few people standing/watching as I finally get my car running so I'll just have one of them yell when they see some oil squirt out Reminds me of how I bleed my brakes. -Hook up clear plastic line to bleeder valve -pump brakes like a mofo -when I hear what sounds like someone taking a piss on my fender well run and shut bleeder valve:cool: It works 60% of the time, every time...

Wouldn't turning the car over with the ignition and fuel pump fuse removed do the same thing? Like if I were doing a compression test. That's what I planned on doing. If you've ever heard something bad about that let me know. Because I really don't want to waste $2k for doing something to save a little time. Thanks. Brent

I'll try that if the 200 miles of babying it doesn't work...

I was just talking to a buddy and he said something about changing oil to non synthetic motor oil for the first 200 miles. I don't see why I would want to do that at all. It seems like that would just be stupid to put in oil for break in that I'm not going to be running for the life of the turbo. Though, I would do that if I were breaking in a new motor because of all the metal shavings that new motor create. But I wouldn't think to do that with a new turbo. He might have misheard something and got the two mixed up. Thanks. Brent

I'm replacing my turbo this weekend and I was just wondering if there is any specific way to break in a new turbo. I've always heard that you should disable the fuel/ignition and just turn the motor over for about 10-15 seconds 3-5 times so you get some good oil circulation. Then you turn the car on and let it idle for about 15-20 minutes. Then you baby if for 100-200 miles. That's what I've done before and it has always worked. But the thing is I've always had cheap as turbo's. And my new turbo is worth about as much as my car. If anyone has something to add let me know. The turbo should be getting here tomorrow or the Saturday. Thanks. Brent

Damn, it's harder to find rsx shells than I thought.

Yea I can find a crap load. But mine has two holes. I guess I can just make a bracket for it to fit in one hole and also have a tab in the other whole. I just don't the sob to move around. And when you say 5-8$ are you referring to buying it from someone or from an actual company? Because if they actually sell just the harness I'll probably go ahead and do that. I just don't like having to track down random parts if I don't have to. Thanks. Brent

I'm looking for all or nothing. I don't want to have to track down random parts if I don't have to. Luckily I have a few days before the new turbo gets here and then another 10 days before the car is going to be on the dyno. Still have to do a few small things to get it ready by then. I still don't know where I'm going to mount that hks boost controller. I just don't like the whole "drilling into my car" part of it...

Bumpage. Gotta get this project going.