Draco-REX

I got these for the BRZ's next level, but it turns out I chose the one size that doesn't clear Brembos. Enkei Tony Angelo Edition RPF1 wheels, semi-gloss black, 18x9.5+38 5x100 bolt pattern. http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t433/Sourcellc/rpf1_zps3022b382.jpg They only have maybe 200 miles on them, likely less. I put them on the car shortly before putting it away for the winter. Then the car's been at ZB's getting work done. Unfortunately, at the final step, we discovered these don't clear STI Brembos. So I need to sell these and get a set that will clear. Wheels, hubcentric rings, and center caps, $1200.

When it comes to harnesses, Painless is usually the first name mentioned. I'd be shocked if they didn't have one for a classic Mustang.

If it's a "finished" car, I'd be upset. But if it's a project that's been unfinished for years and I haven't touched it in a while, then I'd be psyched. If the end result is something I like, awesome. If it's something I don't, I'll sell it.

Teaser time: 20x10.5+30, with Continental ContiSportContact 5P tires in 285/30-20 tires, and 12mm spacers in the rear. Springs will go on as soon as the BRZ's off the rack.

Oh and BTW: http://images.cdn.bigcartel.com/bigcartel/product_images/123018786/max_h-1000+max_w-1000/Fueled-by-hate_03.jpg

They did. It's for factory racing teams only. $26,000 with a minimum purchase of 2.

Invisible Glass with Bounty paper towels. I use a two towel method and don't get any streaks.

If only they had a gas generator module you could drop in the front cargo area for long trips. If I could afford one, I'd still be iffy on getting one because I couldn't drive it to visit family in MA. But otherwise I'd love to have a S.

Keep in mind that this is NOT a car. It is a motorcycle as far as the DOT is concerned, so it does not have to conform to the same safety regs as a car.

Frontal area is measured from the car's silhouette.

Sorry.. Uhh.. Put a LSX in it! Wait.. that's already been said.. Umm.. Get an Alpha GT-R instead!

I agree with most of this but lowering isn't as important for efficiency. Manufacturers have found that getting air to flow smoothly under the car is more efficient than trying to keep it out. So under-panels are the way to go. I'd try to find a small diesel car for your best result. Diesels run lean under light load and therefore use less fuel. A gas engine needs to have a consistent flow of fuel for the air going through it. So a gas engine needs small displacement and/or low revs to get great mileage. A smaller engine ingests less air per rev, and therefore less fuel, but has less torque. Low revs mean less air ingested per mile, but you need a good amount of torque to maintain your speed, and you don't get a low of low-end torque with small displacement. These aren't insurmountable problems, but they are are something to keep in mind. Yes, making the engine more efficient helps gas mileage. So a high flow intake and exhaust are the way to go. Also, go for manual steering, and ditch A/C if you can stand the heat. If your water pump is external, an electric water pump can help, since most small gas engines rev pretty high on the highway. "Helicopter Tape" and smooth wheels are a good start. As above, concentrate on smoothing the undercarriage over air dams and lowering. Whenever you try to get air to do something it doesn't naturally want to do, you create drag. So help the air flow around the car, rather than trying to force away from certain areas. Also, reduce the amount of air flowing INTO the car as well, as this air will cause drag as it tries to exit. Providing the cleanest pathway you can is a good idea. Go to the minimum amount of radiator opening you can get away with. And try to find low-pressure areas for the air to exit into. "Coefficient of drag" is only half the story when it comes to how well a car moves through the air. The other half is Frontal Area, or how big of a hole the car needs to punch in the air. Minimizing this is important. That's why purpose-built hybrids tend to be narrow. An air dam will increase the frontal area. Small mirrors and narrow tires reduce it. Like with #1, efficiency is good. Turbocharging is good for overcoming the lack of power in a small engine, but isn't used for cruising, so it probably isn't worth looking into. This depends on what type of driving you want to be optimized for. Think of your driveline as a kinetic "battery". Hitting the gas fills it, hitting the brake empties it. For highway driving you want a big battery so you can store as much energy as possible to help your engine keep your speed steady. And since you're on the highway, you won't be using your brakes much, so you won't have to re-fill the battery. So in this case, a heavy stock flywheel and tall (narrow) and heavy wheels are a good thing. For city driving, and areas with big hills, your kinetic battery can't help you all that much. And since you'll be draining it frequently, you don't want to have to recharge a big battery over and over. In this situation, you want as small of a "battery" as possible. So a lightweight flywheel and small light wheels are the way to go. TL;DR: Lightest body weight (minimalist interior, excess stuff gone, etc) Smooth body work Smooth underbelly Smallest silhouette from the front (small mirrors, narrow tires, etc) Smallest air openings in the front Most efficient engine Least amount of drag on the engine (small alternator, no A/C, electric water pump) Heavy or light driveline depending on projected use Crazy ideas: Locate low-pressure areas on hood and fenders and use them vent air that enters the radiator and wheel wells. Cameras to replace external mirrors. Wheelcover "Spats". Aerodynamic "detachment" methods on the rear of the car (squared body work, shark fins, AeroTabs, etc.) Rear "diffuser" bodywork. (Use under-car air to fill the void behind the car)

Report it and see what the police say?

My girlfriend works for Mitsubishi.. shipping food additives. Mitsu is not a car company. As for the Evo, no surprise there.

It appears to be from Weaponsgrade Performance, same guys who LS-swapped a BRZ. Might be the same car..

I'm selling the previous set of summer wheels/tires from the BRZ. The package includes: WedsSport TC105n 17x8+42 5x100 in Titanium Silver. Custom black aluminum center caps which make the wheels hubcentric (not pictured). Yokohama Advan AD08 tires 235/40-17 with about 12000 miles and 60% tread left. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8317/8037106565_08ca045620_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8453/8037099978_404cc04b0f_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8032/8037106054_3af77d76e6_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8007/7701403096_79d3e9307c_b.jpg Each wheel/tire weighs just 39lbs (Wheel: 14.85lbs, Tire: 24lbs). For a BRZ/FR-S that's 2lbs shaved from each corner. For a WRX/Legacy that's a much greater weight savings (possibly 10lbs per depending on year/wheel). The overall tire size is slightly smaller than Subaru-usual (24.4" vs 24.9"). Acceleration with the lighter wheels and smaller diameter will be improved, but your speedometer will read about 1mph higher than you are travelling. I want $1400 for the set.

2011. But I think any 08+ rear STI caliper will work. The fronts are all the same.

Better acceleration?

Fresh off the S5, these only have about 600 miles on them. They might as well be new. Dunlop Sport Maxx GT in 255/35-19 These regularly go for $370+ on Tire Rack when they're not on special. I want $900 for the set.

Teaser: (..taken with a potato with bad color then compressed and sent as a text. The yellow has a touch of green and isn't so pale) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7117/13408996234_b32f149e0c_b.jpg Getting some more info from Adam's, but I found a shop who will drill the rotors if Adam's won't take care of the problem.

I'll take you up on those.

Not the greatest response from Adams, claiming I didn't request the 2004 STI rotors I ordered to be re-drilled to 5x100. ???

Thanks. Gave them a call and he wasn't fully comfortable with doing it. But he's going to see if he has some 2004 Sti rotors laying around.

I ordered a custom set of rotors from Adam's Rotors for the BRZ. I even e-mailed them to ask them exactly how I should order them to eliminate any confusion. I did what they asked and they still screwed up. The custom rear rotors are fine, but the off-the-shelf front rotors are wrong. *sigh* So can anyone drill a pair of rotors for 5x100 relatively quickly? Conversely.. Does anyone have a set of 2004 STI front rotors laying around I can have until I get these Adam's rotors sorted out?

The Olentangy bike trail is 7 miles from the northern end to the first street section. It's a good and entertaining ride. If you are ok with riding on streets, the whole trail is 15 miles I believe. The Hilliard rail trail is 6 miles from end to end with only crossings. It's straight and very flat. Not as fun as Olentangy, but it's easy and good for a quick ride after work. We also hit up a trail between Newark and Johnstown. It's 14 miles from end to end with only crossings. It's a bit more challenging because the 4 miles or so at the Johnstown end are a steady slope. We start in Newark so we don't have to ride up hill at the end of our ride. Did that only once..