spankis

So the guy who holds/hangs on the longest, gets up around 3:10ish, then stumbles into it and gets hit again. Then walks away around 4:30.... Has to be the lone survivor. Crazy.

I've seen guys take small trailers and popups, remove the axles, and mount them directly to the frame of 1ton+ trucks. Maybe not exactly what you're suggesting, but functional. Also, I knew you'd find your 1/2 ton ineffective at the towing you're doing! Find an old cummins. Or this would be a good starting point maybe: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/misc-trucks-vehicles-sale/522935-03-gmc-c4500-top-kick-kodiak-hauler-nice.html http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/tooevl/photo1-29.jpg

If you guys are really interested I would call him. I know he's been itching for a vette for a while now.

DAMN DUDE, FIRST THEY TAKE HIS TOUR DE FRANCE MEDALS AND NOW THIS!! But seriously, that stinks to hear. I have a ton of respect for all NASA program guys of that era.

Posting this bike up for a buddy - He's trying to get some Vette money together . I can personally say that he keeps all his cars and bikes super clean, and that this bike sounds really nice. I know there's nothing wrong with it, he just never rides it anymore after getting his R1.... 2002 Honda VFR800FI (the V4 Vtec motor) ~8300 miles The bike has never been down or dropped. It's in very good shape. Everybody asks if it's been repainted, it has not! All paint is original, all the stickers were removed when new (except the Honda wing on the tank, because it's under the clearcoat). The bike has a dual Devil exhaust, a Barnett Kevlar clutch, and a programmable power commander. It picked up around 20hp with a dynotune, and the factory clutch started slipping at high rpms - forcing the clutch upgrade. The wheels are chromed, and the swingarm is polished. Asking $3800 http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/vfrpic2.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/vfrpic1.jpg The bike can be seen in Utica. Call Andrew at 614-256-7681

I have a relative with 5 other falcons that may be very interested in this car. If I didn't have my stealth I would be! Trades?

Alright so they're clear coated, I'm fine with that then. Clearcoat peel will obviously get worse, but they're perfectly fine for now and pretty much what I thought I was buying. They are a substantial improvement over my steelies, both in looks, weight, and strength. Thanks for the help everyone. I'll get some pictures up once they're mounted. I'm sure everyone is on the edge of their seats.

^^John Wayne Toilet Paper^^ It's rough, tough, and don't take shit off nobody.

Okay, so not a great picture, but this shows the improved wheel after using scratch-x: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0823-edited.jpg Hopefully, the rest of these pictures will help solve the mystery of clearcoat or raw aluminum. Here are the bolt holes on the "bad" wheel, as requested: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0824-edited.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0825-edited.jpg Here are the bolt holes on one of the seemingly fine wheels: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0828-edited.jpg Here are what I take to be clearcoat flaking in several places around the "bad" wheel: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0835-edited.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0833-edited.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0832-edited.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0829-edited.jpg Does that change any opinions? Or potentially confirm that there is (or should be) clearcoat?

Perhaps the small spots I see are actually the little clearcoat that's left? I suppose that could be... I know they have clearcoat on them from the factory. Sounds like I need to get some better pictures.

Well, scratch-x made a substantial improvement. The pad I used quickly turned black though, which seemed odd. There are also several places where the clearcoat is peeling, all smaller than a fingernail in size. I have to wonder what the hell the guy did to this ONE wheel though. For now it's quite passable and a decent fix, so I'll probably go ahead and get tires mounted this week hopefully. If it gets worse over time I'll consider having wheel medic refinish the set, since I don't have a ton in them. In some places the bad wheel actually looks better the good 3, so I'll probably use scratch-x on them as well while they're off the truck. Thanks for the help everyone.

The 4.0L in that jeep did NOT sound stock at all. It also had at least lift springs and bigger tires on it.

Andy thanks for the info and the offer. I will give it a shot myself first but I'll let you know. I have some scratch-x, but I'll try the color x first as suggested.

Well that sucks I suppose I should call first then.

Yea based on my research before I bought them, they are a polished aluminum with a clearcoat. They are made by Alcoa, who I've always thought is known for producing quality wheels. If I can fix it fine, if I can't then I need to follow up with the seller/paypal. Sounds like maybe the guy used something he shouldn't have on one wheel then stopped before he ruined the rest? Or is this something that can just come from neglect?

This is tomorrow (Friday) night.

Anybody else have any input, or a specific product to try?

Can you be more specific on what product/process I might use? I had planned on wash/clay/polish/clear... but I wanted to stop and document the issue first. Edit: I see you added a link, thanks.

Sooooo, I bought a set of used wheels for my truck. Bought from an individual, used paypal. 3 of the 4 wheels look fine, the 4th has something going on with the clearcoat I believe. Before I file a grievance with paypal or question the guy about it, what is the deal here? I haven't tried anything really aggressive on them before I get some more info, just soapy water and some rubbing. They looked almost exactly the same before and after. It's my understanding that the wheels are forged aluminum, polished then clearcoated.... One of the good ones: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0363.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0359.jpg The bad one: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0362.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0358.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0360.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0361.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0357.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0356.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0355.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Power%20Wagon%20Wheels/DSC_0353.jpg I'm a obviously a little bothered. Thanks in advance for the help.

My Toshiba has been going strong for 6 years or so.

I also realized you asked about weight stickers. You'll probably see tags listing GVW and GVWR - I pulled this from the internet: GVW is the “Gross Vehicle Weight”, which is the actual weight of the vehicle. GVWR is the “Gross Vehicle Weight Rating”, and is the maximum allowable weight for the vehicle, which includes the weight of the trailer and the weight of the anticipated cargo. The axles must be able to support the GVWR, less the amount of weight carried by the tow vehicle (the “tongue weight” or the “hitch load”). This means that the GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) may be less than the GVWR. It is generally accepted that this difference may be as high as 15% of the GVWR for bumper pull trailers, and 25% for gooseneck and 5th wheel trailers, although a more conservative approach would have them equal (since you don’t know how the consumer will load the trailer). You may find a sticker with this info on the outside, near the door, or on the inside face of a cabinet door inside.

The weight distribution hitches are pretty easy to set up. I've done 2 or 3 for my parents, and I've towed bumper-pull campers all over the US since getting my license. Honestly the only "setup" involved is setting the hitch ball height, because most hitches of this type are height adjustable. Then mounting the load leveling mounts to the tongue of the trailer. If you buy one new it will come with directions, but it's pretty obvious honestly. Load levelers are basically just steel bars that you apply tension to then pin in place at the tongue, basically maintaining a loaded or sprung effect between the truck and the trailer. This keeps the weight distributed more between the front and rear axles of your truck. The hitch will also have a mount for an anti-sway bar, which is effectively a steel bar inside a sleeve that you tighten a large bolt against. This bar goes between the hitch "head" and the tongue of the trailer, and the friction between the plates is such that turning corners is fine, but swaying on the freeway/downhill is minimized.... Go take a look at one of these setups and it will be obvious. If you're concerned at all buy a hitch from RCD or somebody and have them do the install/setup for you. Also, you could probably comfortably tow a 7000-8000 lb trailer with your truck, much over that would be pushing it. We towed a trailer around 9500ish lbs with a half ton suburban for years, but with the 5.3 and 4 speed auto, and it was absolutely all it could do. As you get closer to 10k you really should start considering a 3/4 ton truck. Also consider not only the weight of the trailer empty, but all the food/gear you add to it as well. Also don't make a habit of filling your water tank at home and hauling it with you - drive empty and fill up at your destination. Also air up the tires to max load psi on BOTH the trailer and your truck before pulling. A trailer that size also almost certainly has electric brakes, so you will need a brake controller on your truck, though a lot of newer trucks come with them from the factory. I'm actually going to go pick up my parents camper tonight, to stay at Mid-Ohio this weekend. It will be the first time towing with my new truck.

I went last year and had an EXCELLENT time just spectating. I know last year we had a few members run beaters, and I'm planning on going to watch again this year. My money's going into my new truck for now or I might be browsing craigslist for a beater to enter (also I'm a pussy). Here's all the info for anybody considering it: http://www.hartfordfair.com/forms-2012/2012_Rough_Truck.pdf And a video I found from last year:

I saw your car there, and recognized it from the interior pics you had in your ad. Looked good for sure. I had a relative with a 31 ford coupe in the show, I think he won an air compressor or something.

I may have actually found a set I'm buying, but my current set looks exactly like these: http://www.premiumautosites.net/universe/lag/images/1050371798.jpg If you're interested, they will probably all be for sale very soon.