BradyPPC

Sorry to hear that. I wish him a full recovery and my thoughts and prayers go out to you and your family.

I really dont know to be honest with you. I dont do a whole lot on that side of the business. We have sold since they came out I think 4 or 5 years ago. They seem to hold up really well. The one in Lewis center is as old as the store and we have never replaced any parts on it and it still looks fairly new.

We sell these in both of our locations. They actually work pretty well. The only down side is that you can only push snow with them. We use them in both stores to clear the lots and while they wont did down as far as a commercial plow, we have always been very happy with the results.

Strictly a play car.

Updated graph and dyno numbers in the first post. There are more pics and vids on here as well as parts comparisons http://ppcgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?p=246#post246

I can order one for you . We are a dealer.

Not a problem. That is a pretty solid deal if the guy is legit.

GT500 Maf $115 shipped if you are still looking for one http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152803

Side by side blower comparison http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/20100217185421_1_.jpg Upgraded heat exchanger http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/20100217131258_1_.jpg Upgraded throttle body and coil covers http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/DSC03130.jpg

Kenne Bell makes nice stuff. Quality is very good with the KB's as well. I personally like the more oem look of the whipple or tvs blower though.

We have a 2010 SS in the showroom but it is not supercharged...........yet

Did a few more pulls this morning. The car is up to 623hp/578tq @ 6100 and we are making roughly 35-40 more lb/ft @ 2k.

no problem Jeff. You are on my contact list for sure. I just got back in from vacation on thursday and I am still playing catch up.

http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/DSC03125.jpg http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/final.jpg http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/before_aftergraph.jpg http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/comparison1.jpghttp://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/comparison2.jpg Dyno vid can be seen here. http://ppcgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163 Car has less than 100 miles on it. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Ford/Mustang/GT500/Graham%202010%20GT500/20100217093856_1_.jpg So far base fueling and timing is only done to 6k. Plan is to pull the car to 6500 but during the tuning session, the customer decided to add a few more things that will affect the tune. Ill post up more pics and the final numbers once everything is completed, most likely late next week.

They should be standard thread. You may need a stud removal socket. Basically you would hammer it onto the stud and then it as you twist it to remove the stud it digs into it and should be able to get enough grip to remove it.

You just have to find the rednecks with the money to buy it. Imo, it would be easier to sell the corvette than find the right buyer for the truck.

Nice looking car. Good luck with the build. Should be very cool when you complete it!

Very sharp car!!!

No problem. That is what happens when you mulititask!!! We do so many, we typically know what works, what doesnt, what saves time, etc, etc....On that car PKFM is the bomb. A little more expensive but you dont have to lose a key. Let me know when you go to do the Focus. A 556SW is more than likely what you would want to use for it. It is basically a 556uw with an uncut Ford key already in the box. I can get you a good deal on one as well. Wires in just like the key in the box. Simple and done. Sorry back on topic, PKFM is what I would recommend here as well for your car Chad.

Probably should have reworded that. It wasnt meant to be a jab nor was I saying you dont know what you are doing as I am sure you do by some of your other posts. As far as shop standpoint, a key in the box is a cost savings for the shop as well as the customer at the expense of convenience. And if you are going to do it that way cutting the key is a smart move for security purposes. We dont use the 555 or the key in the box on that vehicle or any other. We use the pkfm which wires in to the pats tx/rx wires. They are very reliabel. It is very rare to get one that does not work, and the customer does not have to lose a key. Most customers would rather keep their spare key and there is really no reason they cant.

Yes that will work. You will need two learn it in to the pats system which you can do with two preprogrammed Ford keys. We do several hundred remote starts a year and never put a key in the box, there is no need to. If you use good products, you dont have to take shortcuts.

They are pricey but not too much worse than the autolites and they are a whole lot cheaper than broken plug removal. I have never been a fan of Champion plugs.

Ive done too many of these things. I usually have good luck but sometimes you win and sometimes you lose. The pics above came from a truck with 8k on the clock. It was missing terribly when it came in. We were able to get them all out but # 3 which we had to go to the specialty tools for. Ended up putting Brisk's in it so he doesnt have to worry about it again.

When the plug breaks in this manner, a special tool is used to push the porcelain into the base of the ground shield. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03030.jpg If you look closely at the ground shield on the right, you will see that the ground strap is actually broke compared to the good plug on the left. In this case the strap broke at the weak point and simply laid over. Had any portion of the strap dropped into the cylinder the head would have had to be removed in to ensure proper removal of all foreign material. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03034.jpg So what can you do to help prevent this from happening to you? The first thing is to get the oem spark plugs out as early as possible. Ford actually has a technical service bulletin that outlines in detail proper plug removal techniques to help minimize the risk of breakage. We use this procedure in every vehicle we do with a high success rate. The second thing you can do is be aware of the options you have when it comes to replacement plugs. There are basically 3 spark plug options. Oem Motorcraft and Autolite both make 3v plugs that are of the 2 piece design. Brisk Racing also makes a 1 piece spark with a standard ground electrode that can be gapped as well. Spark plug on the left is an Autolite 2 piece with 20k miles on it, middle plug is a brand new Autolite, and the plug on the right is a 1 piece Brisk plug. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC02342.jpg We carry both the Autolite and Brisk plugs in stock in the stock heat range as well as cooler heat ranges for forced induction vehicles. The Brisk plug is the preferred plug due to the fact that it will not seize in the head. The Autolite can be used as well with a little antiseize around the crimp to prevent seizing in the head. In either case, it is a good idea to change the plugs out much earlier than the Ford service recommendation.

There has been some discussion on her before about the Ford 3v spark plugs. Thought I would share an article we have posted in our user forum on our website. If you own a 3v Ford, you already know how well this motor performs over its predecessor. There are a few other things you should know as well. One of the major changes for the 2004+ F150 and 2005+ Mustang was the cylinder head design. The addition of the 3rd valve took up some valuable real estate inside the cylinder head. In order to accommodate this design a longer reach spark plug had to be designed. Most all manufacturers have started calling for 100k mile service intervals on spark plugs. They are using materials like platinum that trade off effeciency vs copper for longevity. Where this becomes to be a problem in the 3v motor is the fact that the new plug design is 2 piece. Stock 3v spark plug on the left. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03034.jpg As you can see in the picture above the ground strap is crimped onto the plug beneath the threads. Two things happen over time. The first thing is the aluminum cylinder heads and the steal ground straps start to sieze together (dissimilar metals tend to seize together). Carbon starts to build up in between the cylinder head and ground strap as well, further compounding the problem. Given enough time, carbon can actually build up in between the porcelain and the ground strap causing even more headaches. When these things happen, the spark plugs will tend to want to break upon removal around the crimp. The best case scenario when a plug breaks is for the crimp to break leaving the ground shield in the cylinder head while still allowing the porcelain to be removed. There is a special removal tool that will pull the ground shield out of the cylinder head with relative ease. Ground shield removal tool. You can easily see the carbon build up around the ground shield. This plug had 80k miles on it. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03037.jpg The worst case scenario is that the porcelain breaks with the crimp. If this is the case, there is also a special tool made to push the porcelain into the base of the ground shield which will allow the ground shield removal tool to be used. While this usually has a very high success rate it is possible that the ground shield cannot be removed in this manner depending upon how the porcelain actually breaks. If this is the case, cylinder head removal may be the only option. In the Mustang, this is not a major deal, in the F150 the engine will more than likely need to be removed from the vehicle. This picture illustrates a spark plug where the porcelain broke directly above the crimp. You can see the porcelain, threads, and ground shield all seperated from each other. http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03038.jpg A better shot of the porcelain as well as the center electrode http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/ii353/brady/Tech/3v%20Spark%20Plug%20Removal/DSC03036.jpg