brent1976

Like it says, I need a 4l80e that is a 99 or newer for a core. It needs to be rebuildable, not usable, but the cleaner the better. Thanks Brent

Thanks for the offer, if I need a hand I'll take you up on it. It won't be bad though, I have the use of a lift, and a full mechanics/body shop w/ any tool you can think of. Makes working on cars kind of nice. Here's my shopping list: Trans, tcc, input gear for transfer case, speed sensor plug w/ wire/pcm pins, shifter cable bracket, bellhousing cover, heat shield, dip stick w/ tube, trans cooler lines, longer front ds from 3/4 ton, cut down rear ds.

Mine is an flt level 5, that I paid extra for the billet shafts, and all the stuff that they are putting their level 7 that they just started making. It is definatly not a weak built transmission. 5000lbs+4x4+heavy right foot. I had some tuning problems in the spring, but they are fixed now, I'm guessing it runs low 13's, not crazy fast for most, but damn good for a truck. I don't want to get in a pissing match, the 80e should take whatever I can throw at it, so thats what I'm putting in it.

I ordered an input gear for the transfer case the has the 32 spline for the output shaft. I think it's because my truck is so fat, 5000lbs+. I don't blame the builder(in sig), plus I'm getting a supercharger that will definatly be harder on it later than I am now. Call it insurance.

On the wiring, the conversion harness is a rip off. You move one wire on the 60e harness, delete another one, and wire an extra speed sensor into the pcm. The crossmember needs a piece welded to the back to extend it a couple of inches. My truck is 4x4 so I have to do some stuff the the transfer case. Here is an awsome write up for a truck, but it looks much easier for a 2wd. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=424904 I'd say ok the help, but I live in Zanesville, about 40 miles east of you.

Has anyone here swapped from a 4l60e to a 4l80e. I'm sick of breaking these things, so I'm get an 80e built right now, it should be here in a week or two. I've studied up, and it doesn't look that hard, just wondering if anyone has been through it.

The cover for the intake, if you have it is it the one piece, or the three piece.

What kind of engine covers? Do you have the 3 piece on of the tahoe?

http://www.catmbr.org/photmbrs.htm I think they are ugly little cars, but I got a ride in one once, and it was bad ass. It was so awsome, I would dd the black one at the bottom of the page.

If you unhook the line is fluid coming out of thr master cylinder?

They changed the pulley and tuned it and got 600hp 571tq at 10psi, but I don't think they can do any more psi on the stock engine.

Found this on another site, thought I'd share http://www.youtube.com/user/hpedesign

This is from the truck website I go to alot, I didn't know where to put it, so I put it in here. This is the dyno results of a 2010 camaro ls3 with the new magnuson tvs2300 supercharger @ 10psi. I think the baseline is great to begin with. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=441819

2.3-60ft 14.44@97 The drivers side was lean, I think I ripped an o-ring when I put my new injectors in.

I've never been to the track, I'd like to be in on the newb ride.

I got that day off work, I'm in. What do I do about a helmet, just in case.

555, 146E, 666/208, 83, these are pretty much all from zanesville east, but the best drive I can remember is 33 east of Athens into West Virginia. I drove down there to go to a cave somewhere in the wifes new legacy gt, awesome drive.

My entire long block, h/c, stainless lt w/ ory, and injectors was right at $5k. To do what you're talking about, with lts, and injectors I couldn't get it done for less than $5,200. Plus you can go a lot further later with more ci.

You can go with a 3.905 bore, and 4" stroke = 383 I was thinking about this for my truck, but decided it was cheaper to have a forged bottom end heads/cam 6.0l built with lt headers, and new injectors. And that was with my block pulled from the truck for free.

My truck had black vinyl stripes, but I had it redone twice, because I didn't like how they shrink and leave the little sticky line on each side. I had silver ones painted on last fall, and I love them, it is so much easier to take care of. No more extra 15 minutes of extra wiping at the car wash. Not the best picture, but here ya go. http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s316/brent1976_photos/IMGP0055.jpg

Good for the strip, but way to much lag for dd. Plus very unreliable oiling systems.

Why's everyone saying cute? Because its small? I don't really care, just asking.

Thanks

I beat a stock one just like yours a couple of weeks ago, but only by 1/2 a truck from 35-100+.

They are lighter, because the fenders, or whatever you want to call them, are fiberglass, instead of steel. I don't really like the look though. I had my engine built for a supercharger, so I when Magnusun finally comes out with an actual kit for their newest model, instead of a retrofit kit, I don't think 300 pounds will make that much of a difference. They said Jan. 08 was when it was coming out, so I ordered my engine in Dec. 07, but I then realized it wasn't the final production kit. I was disapointed, so I just threw the engine, and trans in, for now. It makes 380ish hp to the wheels, so it runs good for 4500lb truck.