Tindall2006

Maybe I will call some junkyards in the local area. I can honestly see keeping this truck 5 years or so so I am still debating what I want to do.

Also, it is the 360 v8

Yep! I kind of wish I grabbed the engine hoist from my stepdad's now! lol

I got around to it and did a leak down test on the low cylinder. I could hear air in the exhaust and coming out of the oil filler cap! It was around 60 percent leak down. I did another cylinder just to compare and I could hear the same about of noise in the exhaust but none coming out the oil filler. I think it was 10 to 15% So, What are the odds that one cylinder is getting most of the oil from the intake plenum and the rings are just gummed up and frozen? lol

First, girlfriend dumped me, I want a project! Second, I could have bought a 2-5 grand truck, and the transmisssion or engine could have crapped out in a week also. Used is used in my book Third, I want a project lol... Just trying to determine how much $$ I wanna dump right away. If I could get a junkyard engine with a 30-90 day warrantee I could drive the piss out of it to see how well it would hold.

Nope, but they are probably pretty shitty. I think I could get a junkyard engine about the same I could do a re ring! I guess I will call around tomorrow! Where do you all go for long blocks? The cheepest i found was on ebay for 1800ish

Yeah, if I wasn't moving to Texas I would drive it till it blew up. I could have the army pay to ship it, but I really want to get the army to pay me for a ditty move, which would probably cover the cost of the truck and new engine/ rebuild. I might take it on base and do a leak down test to see what exactly it is and report back. If I decide to just re ring it anyone have some good refernces? I have rebuilt one DSM engine but that went to the machine shop, and I have done several 2 stroke snowmobile engines Honing it with the drill and slapping rings in. I guess rings won't really come apart on a 4 stroke like they will a 2 stroke due to not having ports in the engine right?

Well I am going to hope your right.. I doubt I am going to do a cylinder leak test. I rather just pull the shit apart! I have too much free time.

I put some oil in the cylinder that had 70 psi and it shot up to 170. I could be wrong but I am about 90 percent sure it is rings. You never know till you open it up though.

Anyone ever really do a re ring? I don't see how anything could really go wrong as long as everything is within specs for measurements. As much as rebuilding a motor is played out to be a delicate art, I have seen people throw some crazy shit together.

Biggest thing I want is something reliable enough to feel ok towing my stuff back to texas. If I had never done the compression test I would still be thinking this thing was reliable. Went though about a quart in 200 miles. The Phlenum gasket is defiantly bad and this is a known cause for these trucks to burn that much oil. As far as buying a cheep rust free truck in texas? Yeah right, salt water is a bitch down where I am.

So I have my 600 dollar dodge truck 4x4. I took a gamble on it for a beater truck/use it to move back to texas with and I came out a little behind. The motor burns oil which I thought was just a plenum gasket but turns out it has low compression on cylinder 8 too (70 PSI) So I am wondering what would ya'll do, find a good junkyard motor in throw in there and call it good. Or pull the current motor, check out out and do a re ring or a full rebuild? My theory behind this is I have 600 into it, if I have to put a grand into a new motor I am still coming out ahead as if I bought a slightly nicer 4000 dollar truck.

Do a compression test, also look for pieces of the impeller stuck inside of the engine. I suggest blowing compressed air in the Pee hold (i don't think this engine has one though) to blow any peices of impeller out with the lower unit removed.

2 man team I used to be able to do it in half to 1/3rd of the time for that sized boat. Though I worked as a boat mechanic for 4 years. Flat rate will teach you to load and unload a boat quick!

O wow, that stuff has gone WAY down over the years... So... 400 with the ECU? I know Epron ECU's where going around 200 back when I had a dsm. What do you have as far as trades?

bump

Am I asking way too much? This was for my 91 6 bolt car BTW

I have DSM link V2 with a ECU. 500 obo

I could tell you how to do it, and where to get the stuff for well under 50 bucks. I can also probably tell you what you need to do to the engine too keep it protected too. But, you where always a douche, and said my Talon sounded like shit, so go fuck yourself!

O yes. The loose fairings of death!

I have a 2009 Civic...?

Valves don't need adjusted till 16000 (I will double check the FSM though) I never changed spark plugs as they where done by the previous owner at like 6k? Other then oil and the chain I haven't done anything.

I got the motor pulled, I am getting a new one for 800 from a junkyard tomorrow. Pretty decent price from what I have seen on ebay they are 900 to 1300... Yes, I put oil in it, the drain plug as in and there was no signs of leaks. It was my first thought when I heard it start knocking. Here is the story. I was on base leaving the auto craft shop after changing the oil, I had spent a few hours in the woodshop too working on another project. As I was riding towards the gate I felt the bike lose power, my first thought was it felt like it had droped a cylinder like a plug fouled out or something (reverts back to my 2 stroke snowmobile days) I kept going as I didn't think it was a huge issues and once I got to the gate I heard knocking. I quickly pulled over and checked to see if maybe the drain plug or oil filtter had come lose. I saw no evidence of oil leakage and oil leval was good. I said screw it, if it's knocking the engine is already done for and I figured I would try to milk it home 2 miles. Yes, i knew the results of the decision at the time, but I didn't care as I had milked a knocking engine home before (o so great 4g63). I got about a mile down the road and heard the famous sticks in a lawnmower sounds and felt the back tire lock up. I pulled in the clutch pulled over and saw a puddle of oil by my feet and found a hole in the number 2 cylinder in the front of the crankcase bottom half. Upon pulling the motor out I noticed both exhaust valves are mission, I think the intake valves too and the connecting rod is broken in the middle. The remaining oil was milky and didn't show any signs of metal. The rod bearings is also intact so I don't think I spun a rod like I originally thought. I think what happened is I lost a valve or valves, then they started bouncing around in the engine (knocking noise) and they finally locked the piston in the cylinder breaking the rod. I never had any idiot lights come on either. I also found a peice of the valve stem inside of the manifold. It was rather long too, maybe it was a intake valve that fell into the cylinder, then broke I will look at the intake side tomorrow. I hope this is legible as I suck at typing! Any questions ask, I am curious what ya'll think might have happened. The engine had 11k on it so I am thinking this is either a fluke, or a byproduct of the previous owner trying to beat his top speed! (high load, high rpm for long periods of time)

So after doing a oil change today and filling up the tank my r6 took a shit! Throwing a rod through the block so the motor is toast. Not sure if heads or anything else is going to be salvagable... I still owe about 2 grand on the bike so I am debating what to do. Option one is find a new r6 motor and drop it in, any idea what type of price range I am looking at? Option two, would a r1 motor swap in with ease? Maybe a diffrent motor with more power? Option three, buy a new bike, either a r1 or r6 and try to part mine out to make up the difference... Anyone have experience in parting out bikes? throw me your tips and Idea's... I am thinking this will cost around 2 grand to fix.

lol, I actually dug in my usaa account and found it 04415.... all of you are wrong!