cruizin01

looks awesome!

curious what the inside word was as well. They seemed to be doing well.

It was awesome right? I can't even imagine thinking of doing that, let alone figure out how to do it.. I am kinda concerned about them doing away with the harmonic balancer.

Good friend has a couple sets of winters he's trying to sell. 245/75r16 Firestone Winterforce 9-10/32nds - SOLD! 235/65r17 Blizzak DM-V1 8-9/32nds $160/set PM me and Ill get you in contact with him.

The cost to own the D wouldn't be worth it just for the increase in mileage in my opinion. On a BMW anyway. Any BMW isn't gonna have Toyota reliability... If you want a BMW I get it but its not gonna be free of issues.

Those aren't very common, so the sample size is small. We don't see many at our dealership. The technology is pretty similar to the 6 cylinder models. Lots of parts in the SCR system. Similar EGR system for it to gunk up the intake, etc. It will last 200k miles but the parts are NOT cheap. I guess it depends on what you are used to owning whether it would be "reliable" or not.

X5 3.5D? All the BMW D's seem to have some SCR system problems. I would only own one if it was deleted.

PM sent. here's some of the basic units similar to what I bought for anyone else that's interested. http://www.specialbuybarns.com/collections.html

Mine turns brown pretty quickly. I try to swap it out every couple months. The elements from Menards are pretty cheap. Im not sure there is a remedy for it. We had our well pump replaced during all these remedies and it was bad at first. Its gotten better but still pretty rusty. My long term goal is probably switching to city water and sewer as my septic system is OLD. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I believe this is the system we ordered. I went through my email and its the 5600sxt but mine referred to an "iron man series" which the website doesn't seem to specify anymore. They do show a "well" upgrade which I think has the upgraded resin but that appears to show its mostly for iron removal. https://602abcwater.com/collections/water-softeners-1/products/abcwaters-fleck-5600sxt-water-softener They do have another unit that says it helps with sulfur. I would call and get their recommendation. They should be able to build/offer what fits your needs. Mines been working well for a year or so. Uses way less salt than the 20 year old Culligan unit did. But Ill be honest and admit I don't know how it compares to these $2k and up units but I didn't want to spend that kind of money. I read the Fleck heads are pretty decent but don't know how it will hold up super long term. I did install a 1" single filter system from Menards at the line coming in from the well to keep down on deposits getting to the softener.

We installed a hybrid water heater to replace a rented unit in our new to us house. The water smelled bad with the new unit. (Im assuming the rod was gone in the old one) To temporarily solve the issue I installed a filter on the line running to the hot water heater. I just used it to pour peroxide in the system every few weeks. It worked in under an hour with just a pint poured in. I then switched out the anode rod to a universal zinc/alum rod. It seemed to help a bunch. I could go longer before the water would stink. Recently we switched out our water softener to a fleck iron man unit from 601abc water for $650 that I installed myself. I upgraded the resin to one they claimed worked with stinky water. Its solved our problem about 90%. The only time the water smells is when we go on vacation and don't use it. When we come back it stinks so I had some peroxide and its fixed. Im happy with the setup we have. And it wasn't very much money.

I had this one built by the cottage company out of Berlin. Its 10x20 with 8ft sides. Its not pretty but its large and holds all my lawn stuff along with wheels/tires, etc. I still need to paint it but its held up well. All I did was dig down about 5 inches and put weed mat down and have some gravel brought in. Then the company delivered and set the shed on my spot. If I had loads more time I would have loved to have built my own but it definitely would have cost more and probably taken 2 months worth of weekends for me to build it myself. I did build the ramp myself from left over deck boards and the shelving up top for extra storage. I paid under $2400 for it delivered which included my choice of shingles and a 6ft wide door. That was quite a bit cheaper than anyone I could find locally out of Columbus to get one from. Its perfect for my needs.

Ive got a HF coupon for a cart for $29 if anyone wants it.

That looks nice a nice unit. I wish I could have justified it. I just bought a Hobart 140 to finish up some exhaust I needed, but would have likeed to get a multi process unit.

Just an update for anyone that cares. I had a friend over and we went over everything again and kept coming back to the rectifier. So I hopped on amazon and bought a $13 3 wire rectifier for a different engine. (The Kawasaki one was $50) Wired it up and started the mower, whataya know? 13.5 volts! Relieved and aggravated at the same time. Ill return the $50 one and just keep the cheap one. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

awesome shop. love their builds. Im curious to see how the K10 looks when finished.

wow. that seems like an excellent deal.

There are some fuses that I checked. Im not certain what is what.. but, I bypassed everything in the harness by jumping from the rectifier directly to the battery. Ill look into this again but Im pretty sure I checked that. I pulled the output wire off the rectifier and tested for voltage and there's nothing there. Thats doing the same thing as what you said right? But I read that the rectifier has to see load for it to work correctly. So I may not be able to test for what you are saying. I double checked the ground wire from the battery to the engine. I added a ground jumper from the rectifier to the ground post. nothing changed there either. mmm. I dunno about the diode checker. I have a medium range fluke. Ill take a look at it. I assume though that if my old one and my new oem one do the same thing its not likely the rectifier, even though I would love for it to be. As its the only thing that makes sense to me.

I have a 23hp Kawasaki on my Zero turn thats not charging. It has a fairly simple charging system with a stator and a 3 wire regulator/rectifier. 2 wires go from the stator to the rectifier and 1 wire out from the rectifier through the harness to the battery for charging. So the spec says that if you have AC voltage of 27-30 volts at full throttle between the 2 wires coming from the stator that the stator is working correctly. The rectifier should convert the AC voltage to DC voltage to get you the ~13-15 volts you need to charge the battery. So I am getting 28v from the stator but nothing from the output on the rectifier. So I assumed the rectifier is bad so I order another one from Kawasaki. New one doesn't do anything different. I jump the rectifier battery voltage out tab to the battery to make sure its nothing in the harness, fuse etc but nothing changes. I verified the rectifier is grounded. no change. I did swap to a spare battery incase my battery had a short causing havic with the recitifier and nothing changes. Im usually pretty good with this stuff but I can't figure it out. Any thoughts?

well.. shucks Ill think on it. might swap it out for my chase sapphire card since there is no annual.

I considered signing up for the credit card as well until I read the reviews. The first 6 reviews were all 1 star. Sounds like their is an issue with purchases being rejected for no apparent reason. So I passed.

Thanks for this. I had been looking at them as well. Picked up 1 for now.

They're garbage to deal with the couple times Ive tried to get anything from them.

Dan will definitely do respectable work. He will always use BMW parts when possible. We work with him to try and get OEM parts even when the insurance wants aftermarket or reman. Be prepared to be patient on the turnaround time.

damn. sweet. jealous. great color minus the strippers.