Richard Cranium

Could you grind off that first thread? There are cutters to chamfer the edge and shave that first thread down.

BTW, are the threads you need to chase inside or outside threads? With a diameter that big I'm not sure how I would attack them.

Maybe hit the gunk with some steam, and then a pressure washer? No sense in grinding the gunk into the threads.

In that case .... they'll remember!

Mine is one of the Magnetospeed style that you strap to the rifle barrel. It's not a Caldwell that uses the shades. A caldwell would work as well as a labradar I assume. I'll give the magnetospeed a try though. There are several spring options so you can change the muzzle velocity and how hard it is to rack the action. Of course I got the big spring because .... well, power. With a spring swap the fps gets down more to a manageable level that you won't hurt someone with a point blank shot. Sure, if I do that I'll bring the Ruger Precision along too. The Accustrikes might make some noise because I think they have a plastic tip instead of foam like the regular ones do.

I didn't know there were so many different NERF darts. He has a version for Rival as well, which are the foam NERF balls (smaller than a golf ball). Looks like some clubs have written rules into their games for blasters like this. Either they have outlawed over 200 fps, or set rules like you can't shoot someone within 50 feet. I do know that 10 feet stung. I still haven't gotten a scope for it, just printed some "iron" sights for it. I have shredded a couple of the standard blue and orange darts. I picked up some AccuStrike darts, but I haven't tried them in this blaster yet. I need to find someone with a chronograph so I can measure the muzzle velocity. I have one for my rifle, but I don't think it will read a foam dart though.

Hers is a 2000. We found a unicorn, garage queen, 1 owner Ohio truck that was completely clean and 100% rust free. Might help to clean up the headlight lenses. Don't know that I'm really wanting to spend the money for a good set of LEDs. It sounds like the cheap ones will just burn out (or burn the truck down to the ground).

What gears are you going with?

I've heard the Field Museum is good as well. I've always liked the movie The Ghost and the Darkness. The lions from the movie are on display there.

The guy that designed it goes by Captain Slug. The design and plans are posted on Thingiverse. Obviously the plastic parts can be printed in any color you want, and some people go wild and create really crazy designs. The hardware kit is nothing crazy, but there are lots of odds and ends parts to make it all work. I chose the easier route of just buying a parts kit from him on his Etsy store. He sells everything from front and rear parts kits, to complete kits with 3D printed parts, to assembled blasters. There is a version for MEGA as well as traditional darts. There are several choices for springs as well depending on what kind of muzzle velocity you're looking for. He even has a Color Configurator page so you can design your own color pattern and see what it will look like when it's completed. Plans - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150 Color Configurator - http://www.captainslug.com/nerf/caliburn/e/ Etsy shop - https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug/

Not on the scale of Alex's 6.5 Creedmoor build, but probably the only build I'll do this winter is my new Caliburn 3D printed Nerf rifle. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=590&pictureid=9501 It is just Nerf, but it's a mean bastard. My wife shot me with it from about 10 feet and it left a small welt. Hurt like I'd been stung by something. Should be over 200 fps muzzle velocity. I may stick a cheap scope on it and see how accurate it is out to 100 feet.

Other than whats already been said, my only thought would be a news outlet with some sort of 6 on your side type program. Maybe the bad press would get them to take notice and get them to find a way to sort it out.

OH! I need one of those for the dragster.

I'm pretty happy with the Ruger Precision in 6.5 Creedmoor. I was able to ring steel at 1000 yards at Rayner's the one time I went out. I've had it in the back of my mind to go out to Thunder Valley and see if I can make it happen at a mile. I'm not really interested in completing with anyone but myself, so I guess my plan is to keep working on my shooting skills and my reloading skills. I still have it in the back of my mind to build an AR in .224 Valkerie. I wanted to this last summer and never got the time. Maybe this summer I'll make it happen.

Carol was just complaining the other day she doesn't think her headlights are bright enough in her Tundra. Maybe I should grab a set from this test. Thanks man. Oh, and fuck you too. Have a merry new year everyone.

If Ryan isn't interested Doc, I am.

If you're not keeping it numbers matching, then I say LS swap too. I know everyone is doing it, but there is a reason. If not an LS style engine, then I would at least use fuel injection on the old school motor you drop in.

Joe's class is great. I did a class years ago, then later my wife wanted to do a class. Joe invited me to sit in on the class with her. The class I took was okay at best. It fitted the bill to get my ccw license. I was far more impressed with Joe's class. Also, my wife had trouble with my H&K pistol, so he got one of his personal pistols out for her to use. Also, it was cold, she was exhausted from a long week and her eyesight was acting up because of how tired she was. She could not pass the shooting test because she could not get her eyes to focus on the target. Joe rescheduled some time for her to come back out when it was warmer and she could focus. She passed no problem at that point. I cannot say enough about Joe's classes.

It's not a safety thing, it's an advantage problem. With drive by wire I could gain an advantage because the throttle is not exclusively controlled by the driver any more. Especially in a foot brake class it's all about reaction time and when you mat that throttle. "STARTING LINE CONTROLLERS Only pneumatic starting line controllers permitted in Advance E.T. and Super Pro only. Only mechanical starting line controllers permitted in Pro and Sportsman only. Use of mechanical device must be completely in driver’s control. Release of mechanical device must be spring activated only (released on full throttle activation). All other forms of starting line controllers prohibited in all E.T. classes." Here is another example. This one is specifically for Pro Mod, but I assume it is echoed for other classes as well. "Throttle control must be manually operated by driver’s foot. Electronics, pneumatics, or hydraulics is permitted for starting line/staging rpm limiters only. See General Regulations 1:12."

It is a bit over designed for racing, but it's a scaled up version of their street EFI system. The computer can control your fuel pump, cooling fan, ect... Use you key as your switched ignition source and the system will function without changing the way you normally start the car. DBW would offer some interesting tuning/programming options, but I'm sure NHRA would have a screaming fit. At least with the starting line enhancer there is positive mechanical control of the throttle. I have heard stories even of NHRA officials having a fit because the throttle was not exclusively controlled by the pedal.

The throttle is still cable driven. Same cable I was using on the DaVinci Dominator that was on the car when I got it. The TPS is built into the side of the throttle body unit. I would assume most don't have an O2 sensor, I had to have a bung welded into my header for the 02 sensor. I'm still running leaded gas, so we'll see what that does to the 02 long term. I just didn't see options for 112 octane unleaded race gas, and I really don't want to get into mixing octane boosters into unleaded. We are using the bare minimum of control for the Sniper. Other than the O2 wire, and coolant temp, it's just power, ground, switched ignition, and tach. One of the big harnesses has only 1 wire being used. We de-pinned all the other wires coming out of it to cut down on excess. In the event of a wreck, I want positive control of the fuel pump and ignition. I also chose to maintain control of the radiator fan. So far I am pleased as hell with the system. The throttle response is VERY crisp. Cold starting is not a problem now. Warming up is as easy as it could be. Idle to full throttle is a simple mash of the peddle. I know my old carburetor could have been cleaned up and tuned up a little, but I always had a delay and the engine struggled a little if I just matted the throttle. Since this has so much better manners in between idle and full throttle I'm planning on adding a "Starting line enhancer" to the car that will let me sit on the line with the peddle floored and the engine at idle until a second before the green light, when it will take up the slack and bring the engine up to full power just before the launch. Right now, once I stage, I mat the throttle and sit there with the engine screaming waiting for the green light. It's only a few seconds but I would prefer to do that as little as possible. Some of the nicer ones can also double as a throttle stop.

Damn! What youtube rabbit hole did you go down to end up with that video?

Amazon has the NOCO units set up as a Cyber Monday deal. https://smile.amazon.com/deal/59e01c40/ref=gbps_tit_m-6_6099_59e01c40?showVariations=true&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2c5a1a4a-6d70-476f-a562-9e4f8e396099&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=5550342011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=A4H16DK6C0F5AKYB8GRH

I've not dealt with either of them, but guys I know have talked highly of Cap City Outfitters in Hilliard and Powder Room out on 42

Now that the dragster has been converted over to fuel injection I want to work on making the car even more consistent. I also want to start playing with the tuning on the car and get back some time that I lost. The car has been in the 7s once, it should be running 8.1 and 8.0. I want that back now.