POS VETT

Learned my lesson the hard way. Went to court for a missing front license plate ticket on the truck and I parked my Caddy at a parking meter. Got the one for the truck dismissed and found another on the Caddy. Next time you are in downtown, choose a parking garage.

Clay, did you check Costco ?

Catastrophic reading comprehension failure ...

How much ? What kind of access ? What kind of ground rules ?

Congratulations !

Where is the proof that it takes a gallon of gasoline to produce a gallon of ethanol ?

So, gasoline doesn't take any other form of energy to refine and to extract ?

ya lost me there brah

Moot point. The campaign for wearing seat belt is decades old & yet some people ignore its facts. In general, more people believe in blow-hard politicians than seat belt facts. Excuses and opinions will be given out in an effort not to buckle up; it's like an asshole, everyone got one.

Now we're talking. I suppose 2-3" lowering isn't too much for a pick-up truck like mine. CG is quite tall and lowering the front roll axis hopefully gets it closer to CG; at any rate, roll stiffness will be addressed, in the near future, by a larger front anti-sway bar (along with a matching rear) since it's well on its way to failure. I also found that Moog has an "OE replacement" upper arm with eccentric bushings. Has anyone used these ? How difficult is it to rotate the bushings ? Does it need to be done off the vehicle ? When lowering combined with eccentric bushings and OE cam adjusters, I'm hoping to get caster closer to +8 deg and camber closer to -1.5 deg.

While poly bushings have higher durometer, the tires are "soft and floppy". I'm not worried about elevated NVH as long as there is no binding and a decent amount of compression travel is available. Stiffer dampers such as Bilstein would make it ride "nice and stiff". Total cost would also be quite a bit higher with dropped spindles since I have to replace ball joints anyway. CLAY FOR PRESIDENT !!!

I want to lower my '3 Silverado ECSB 2WD (with coil springs and a 5.3l V8) and it's also in time to have ball joints on the left side replaced; bushings are also in need of replacement (dry-rotted and cracked). So far I've found that DJM Suspension has kits which include front upper and lower control arms (they look well built with greasable poly-u bushings) but with too much lowering; I just want a maximum of 3" front lowering; 2" is fine too. So, I'm looking for options and costs. I've looked at Belltech, McGaughys, Ground Force, and obviously DJM. Did I miss any other brand ? Do you have a lowered GMT800 ? Please no comment about the truck should be a 4wd and lifted or keeping the stock ride height or going with even more lowering.

Are you sure it's 12 degrees needed ? It sounds a lot.

I love that dropped C10 with huge wheels too. I wouldn't do that much drop on the C10 in question but I still wanted those huge California Smoothies.

We're going to Senor Antonio's tonight. Much earlier than 7:30 though.

That steel wheel weighs forty seven pounds for a 20x9; it is $220 plus $25 for powdercoating. The wheel has dual PCDs of 5x4.75 and 5x5. If you want other PCDs, there is an upcharge. If you want wider wheel, there is an upcharge for the rim part will be split and a rim section welded in. Chrome-plating is extra and they could do chrome-plated rim with powdercoated center section. Baby moons, beauty rings, bullets are all extra. I'd go with Centerline California Smoothie instead. Unless you are going with copper-plated wheels.

I'd keep it as stock-looking and as clean as possible.

I washed my truck yesterday and today. It should be pretty enough for CC&C.

Case hardening is fine; the concept is to harden only the surface so it's wear resistant but still maintaining the toughness (i.e. less brittle) everywhere else to retain resistance to impact loading. Change in geometry (i.e. higher number of spline or teeth) may not be cost effective. Radiographic inspection will reveal a flaw (i.e. crack-like feature) otherwise invisible to naked eye. All these will not increase specified load-carrying capacity; only avoiding failure at lower stress level due to existence of a flaw.

Gabe, go home.

NO!

I could almost tell the failure mode and origin on that main shaft. If you have quite some investment in upgrades, it's not a bad idea to have radiography inspection performed.

Excellent craftsmanship.

You and Joe are fine; you guys knew the 3 rules then.

Three absolute rules when co-driving someone else's car: 1. Do not beat the owner's time 2. See #1 3. See #1