Toph6888

Lol I thought someone might comment on it. Its a black diamond camping light, available at pretty much any outdoor store for around $30. Only flaw is its a AA battery light, not a rechargeable one. Works great outdoors camping though. http://www.rei.com/product/890117/black-diamond-voyager-lantern-2014-closeout

Finally finished pretty much all of the wiring for the dual FPDM conversion. Only thing left to do is to put on one deutsch connector for the second pump by the tank and then lift the tank up into place. I need to find the crimping tool for it though, should be able to find one at work today. Getting wiring set up: Nest of wires: All tucked together and ready to go: Tank side all ready to go (minus the one connector):

is B3R actually in Hinckley? Thats what google came up as, I had no idea my hometown had an actual dyno lol. Car sounded good on the dyno

A bit of catch up on putting the cobra tank into the mustang: Completed previously: Adapter plate from ON3 to connect V6/GT fuel level sender to cobra hat: Then when I went to put it on the sender I had had a loose connection for the wire, so I had to resolder it onto the board: Finally got everything aligned how I wanted it with the twin 340lph pumps with 12 gauge wiring. These pumps were a decent bit taller then the stock cobra pumps so it was a lot of fitting to get enough clearance from the bottom of the tank to the pump inlet, and then getting the wires/hoses set up on top to have everything fit. The cobra tank I have is a new piece from ON3 Performance, so I'm not sure if its just not quite as tall but I had to cut off the bottom of the pump hat that held the pumps in place and then brace the pumps so I could have 1/8"-1/4" clearance between the bottom of my tank and the inlet to the pumps. Then to get around the bafflers in the tank, I had to bend the fuel level sender arm to clear. I paid close attention to the height by setting it on a table, measuring the distance between the float and the table before bending, made my bend for my clearance of the baffle, then bent the float back down to where it would have the same "lowest position" height from the table (if that description doesn't make sense and you have a question about it, let me know). I plan to fill it with about 3-4 gallons of fuel, and then reset my pin on my dash gauge to show 1/4 tank at that point, I don't really care if the gauge is right after that, I just need to know when I only have 3-4 gallons left. Then I didn't take pictures. I painted the tank so as to avoid it rusting in the future, we dropped the stock tank, and I was able to get my vent cans/seals out easily and transfer over all of the vent lines without issue. Dat IRS: Assembled tank: Finally I set up my bracket for my dual FPDM's. Still need to set up the wiring, but I just used some #10-24 3" long screws and then some nuts to set everything in place so it has enough ventilation. Fits perfectly in the stock location. Thats as far as I got last night because we had to spend a bunch of time emptying the stock tank (it had 10+ gallons of fuel in it, and I only had one 5 gallon can, so we kept filling it and then filling mine, my gf's and my buddies car with gas, which just so happened to all have been filled recently lol). I hope to get the basic wiring layed out and physical tank up into the car on wednesday.

Does anyone have a crimping tool for AC lines that I can borrow? I got new lines since I have found this summer to be too hot to be driving the mustang around without AC, and I had to make some slight bends in the hard line in order to fit it around the turbo and keep them away from the heat of the passenger side header. I have the heat wrap and whatnot that I want to use as well, but I had to cut the soft lines to shorten them so they aren't kinked when installed. So long story short, hard lines fit, need to cut soft lines, and need to recrimp. Anyone have a tool or a place where I can have them crimped on for about $25-50? Any more then that and I will go ahead and get a tool with my friend who is working on some lines and we will split the $140 tool. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31GPYpTLQNL.jpg

I don't mean to thread jack, but if OP isn't interested in the wheels, I probably will be if its all 4 rims.

Touched up a bit of the exhaust today, took the mustang to work to put it on the lift so that I could cut off the stock cobra IRS mufflers and put on some flanged glasspacks. For cheap, I felt they worked out pretty well, will have to see how they last. so long as they last for a year or so with how cheap they are it wouldn't be a big deal to have to replace them lol. Overall driving around with them its just a touch louder, nothing crazy different. But thats fine, the main reason I did it was to help relieve back pressure from the turbo outlet. At idle, maybe just a bit lower, no real difference. But with the two step, it sounds pretty wicked in person. I got the best video I could with my phone, but it can only do so much. Taking the car to Norwalk drag strip in Ohio (more commonly known as Summit Motorsports Park) and hoping to have a lot better turn out with it compared to last year with the old cam where I just couldn't get a good 60' time (previous best was 2.4s, even with the 2step). Stock cam works much better with the turbo I have, so hoping to run some good times and mainly just have a good time since my dad will be coming out too. He hasn't had a chance to really ride in the car yet where we could really get on it.

Looking to add a battery disconnect for my trunk mounted battery, and want to get a junked rear taillight that I can put the rod through rather then drilling out a body panel or something. Looking for something cheap and local, let me know if you have an old one sitting around just gathering dust, don't care if it has some scratches on it or is faded so long as its not broken.

Ya those were mine. I felt like that was one of the hardest corners on the track, I had a hard time figuring it out with the mustang.

Got the mustang out finally to an autox @ circleville this weekend after all this building and it ran pretty solid. No major breakdowns other then having a plastic fender washer grinding on a tire (one of those push pin things that holds on the fender liner, no damage to the actual fender). Was running consistent times and then had my brakes lock up on me and went into the grass haha. That track is super tiny for that car, I started running better times when I realized I was able to run the entire course in 1st gear. Good to meet some of you guys out there.

Been working a lot on the rear seat delete with the aluminum panels and made good headway. I'm about 80% done with them now. Started with my aluminum sheets, took my cardboard templates I made and got the basic shape cut out on the shear at work, then took them home and trimmed them up with tin snips. Then I marked where all my bends needed to be and took them back to work to put the bends in. Even being aluminum that 1/4" thickness really didn't want to bend that much but I got them there (well close enough that some light standing on them in the garage finished up the bending). Then I bought some rivet on Tnuts and figured out where I wanted all of those and spent two nights getting them fit, finding the bolt holes, drilling out panels in the aluminum and the back seat of the car and finally getting everything fit together. I am at about $120 in materials as it sits, and I am going to cover them in suede I got from a friend for free, so all in all it will be about a total of $140 with the padding/glue to put on the suede. It was kind of a pain in the ass, so if you don't need metal I would suggest just buying it and avoiding the hassle, but if you want a fun summer project this one was pretty rewarding (hint, take the front seats out to make your life that much easier. Here is the rear seat with all the t nuts put in it (3 on the speaker panel, two in the bottom corners, and 4 on the rear seat rail) Here are my panels all ready to go: I also put in my seat harnesses that are a "3" point, ie they bolt in 3 places but they still have the waist straps/shoulder straps through the seat And finally here is a better picture of the seat delete installed: Gonna be out of town next week for work, but I can at least drive it without hearing everything rumbling in the back so that will be fine for now. Maybe next weekend I will go ahead and work on getting them covered in the suede.

Worked on some more odds and ends this weekend. Started off rough by trying to fix my belt tensioner on my drivers front seatbelt since it never retracted all that much. Followed the how to guides on how to put in more tension, but luck wasnt on my side as I didn't bust just one tensioner, not two, but three total tensioners (when I busted the original drivers one, I tried to use either of the rear belt tensioner springs since I removed the belts since I have no rear seat, and no luck). The bad luck continued as the hunt at the pick and pull only resulted in them having convertible mustangs, so damn. In the end I decided to get these since I don't use the car on the road too much with the WRX daily, so this will do for the time being for autox's, track days, and "daily" for now until I get to some yards with some stock belts I can get for cheap (only factory ones I could find online were $150+!!) Since it was nice out I took off my wipers and painted them up, as well as replacing the dryrotted old wipers (hadn't been changed since before the turbo, two years ago lol) and refilled the windshield washer fluid since that all evaporated off long ago Finally, I ordered some sheet aluminum online last week for my rear seat delete, so I got all of my templates mocked up. I decided to go with 16 gauge aluminum so it will be a little bit more rigid and solid when set up. I will be adding some light cotton padding to the tops and covering in some black suede I have sitting around, and I will attach the panels together and to the body with nut rivets and flat head allen bolts. Templates all made up: (yes I know there is a gap, I accounted for it). https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/p600x600/10408627_10101681306730022_7829692697169402652_n.jpg?oh=02ade68815453bd0df11d4ac1a265af4&oe=55CEF216 I will take the aluminum wiht me to work where I have a good press to cut them to general dimensions, will trim with tin snips, and then will bend with our brake that we have in the back as well. Should hopefully be done in the next night or two.

Thinking about bringing the mustang out for this one. Just need to confirm I can get the day off. For tech are we going to be super picky about truck mounted batteries without disconnects? Also, my rear seat delete is made from 16 gauge aluminum, that OK?

Ahh gotcha, yah you were running some pretty solid times. It took me a little bit to get my shifting figured out, but past that it was pretty good. Yah, continental extremecontact DWS high performance all season 265/35R18 all 4 corners. I ran those because thats what I had on the car. They have a pretty high treadwear rating so i wasn't expecting anything miraculous out of them. They did fine for an autocross on a car that I use as my dd, just a bit noisy as I'm sure everyone heard lol.

Went to the Corvette Troy group this weekend in the WRX. While the WRX isn't really set up for a lot of racing with its performance all seasons and brakes I was still impressed with the track and the club/workers. For the price, number of runs and short distance away it was a great event. Will be back hopefully May 3rd with the mustang this time.

Kind of silly point here to make sure you double check all your stuff, when we had our first nice day here in ohio I decided to take the mustang out and go for a drive with the new k member installed and noticed I wouldn't go into boost. I thought it was the blow off valve being stuck open and almost started to buy new springs ($30 a pop) and then I realized when I had taken the intercooler off for part of the install I didn't remember to put all the pipes back on. Luckily it was only driven like this a couple of miles. Check all your connections!!! Sold my cobra seats out of my mustang a couple weeks ago due to them being too high and just not very comfortable for what I am wanting to use the car for. Went back and forth on seats for a long time trying all that I could and decided to go with the corbeau A4 wides with a 1" shaved base. very comfortable and being 6'3" it kept me low enough to where a helmet is comfortable, they are a LOT lighter then the stock cobra seats, and they are tall enough on the back where my neck can't bend over the top of them like other shorter seats. after unboxing: Installed: I also bought a clutch pedal height adjuster from maximum motorsports. Lets you even out the pedal height with the brake pedal and you can adjust it all with the part and the adjustable firewall clutch adjuster.

SOLD

Thanks I'll have to go check it out tonight to see if they have them out there. Thanks for the heads up. Thats my concern as well, normal being too narrow, wide being too wide lol.

I am looking to get a set of Corbeau CR1 seats, but I was hoping someone around columbus had a car with them installed or even just sitting around that I could just try sitting in them. I'm pretty broad in the shoulders, so I just want to see if the shoulder bolsters are going to be annoying and if I should get the normal width or the wide set of seats. PM me if you wouldn't mind letting me try your seat for a couple minutes, would be really appreciated before I go spend $1200 on seats.

Yes, I plan on keeping the rear seats for now.

Looking to sell my front driver and passenger side 03 cobra factory seats. Reason I am selling is I am looking to get a set of corbeaus. The passenger seat is in really good condition, I would say 8.5/10 to 9/10. No real wear at all on it. The drivers side has some wear on the suede and some wear on the bolsters, but no wear through. I would put it at a 7/10. I am not looking to ship these, I am located in columbus OH and will drive to meet within a reasonable distance. Looking to get $700 obo, feel free to message with offers, worst I can say is no.

Does trails require proper vehicle prep to run, IE, I have my batter in my trunk on the mustang, but no cut off. Would I get turned away from them? Not that its a big deal to get it taken car of ahead of time lol. The only track I have run at is MCIR, and they don't check anything, so long as it runs you can line it up.

My girlfriend got an 09 cooper s wtih the turbo, and its a blast to drive. I'm 6'3", and I still have plenty of headroom and I don't even have the seat all the way back to drive it, only issue is I wish there was a little more shoulder room. Like others have said, the car will be kinda cheap on the interior, but its nice if you take car of it. Oil changes aren't that big of a deal, but she just took it in to be changed and they said the oil pan gasket needs to be replaced at 42k miles, and from what I read online its a pretty common occurence. We looked at a lot of minis before hand, and if you are gonna get an S, get the turbo over the supercharger. The turbo comes to life a lot better and is an easier car to drive, I thought all the supercharged ones had really crappy clutches. The 07+ cooper s are DI (I can't remember if the regular ones are DI) and because of this, carbon buildup in the exhaust runners I believe is a common occurence and needs to be cleaned out around every 50k it seems. Also, you will need a thin wall socket to do the spark plugs. For the driving experience, I think they are great cars, they look great, people driving them typically tend to wave so its a comfortable car community to get into. Every car is going to have its quirks and being a BMW baby, thats pretty much maintenance. I do all my own labor on my cars and hers, and its easy to work on, so I'm not too worried about a lot of the stuff as it comes up. I just am not looking forward to when she needs a clutch and it will be $700 for the flywheel/clutch setup just for parts.

Nothing too much to report on the mustang since its so crappy out right now, not even worth trying to get in the garage really. I have started talking with a company called spintech mufflers to try to get a clearance pipe made up consisting of a 3" round to an oval to another 3" round that I can weld into my exhaust under my k member to get me a lot more room. The oval is 2-1/8" x 3.5" so I gain almost an inch of clearance there, plus I can move the piping up probably another 1" from where it is right now, which woudl take me from 2-5/8" to probably around 4.5" clearance, which should make the k member the lowest part of the car. Hopefully it all works out, this is what I am essentially trying to get: http://www.spintechmufflers.com/images/uploads/UNIQUEPRODUCTS/TransitionPipe2.jpg In other more interesting news, I sold my daily driver outback to my brother, and seeing as I didn't need quite as much space to haul parts now that the mustang is done I went and picked this up all the way out in baltimore (6.5hrs away, bah. Closest World Rally Blue one that wasn't Bro'd out). 2014 WRX 5spd with 17k miles on it. Only mods are a basic lowering spring kit, sway bars, endlinks, rear camber arms, and the Rota Grids/Conti Tires. Original owner also gave me all the stock suspension parts and the stock rims so I will have something to put some blizzacks on. All in all plan on keeping it mainly stock, nothing crazy. I ordered a shifter and bushing kit for it bc the stock one is pretty high and the bushing are really spongey. Other then that maybe make an intake pipe for it since places want over $300 for a CAI, maybe get a turbo back exhaust later on and a tune for it. Right now it drives great as it is and really doesn't need anything.

Got all the front suspension buttoned up and got the car back on the ground. one thing I noticed is that my coilovers are extremely close to my tires, not touching, but I cant get my fingers between it either which I would like at a minimum. I will get some camber bolts so I can push the coilover set up away from the tire, and then correct the alignment with the CC plates I have up on top and that should get me all the clearance I need. If that isn't quite enough, I will have to get a small wheel spacer to add just a little bit, something like a 2-3mm spacing. Took a while getting the ride height lined up on both sides, get one side set right, and then the other side would go down or up, so constantly back and forth between each side till they both sat about the same. Right now I have about 2.5" clearance between the tires and the fender, which is about where it was before the suspension swap. Both rocker panels on either side are within about 1/16"-1/8", so that will be good enough till I can get it on my alignment rack at work, still need to get the toe set. Friend is coming over tomorrow and we will get that set up pretty quickly. Last thing I checked was the exhaust height clearance, its an all amazing 2-5/8", so it could use some help. I have a lift at work and I can bring my welder in and I have access to a chop saw there, so I bought a spare SS vband set up off of amazon and I should be able to get another 0.5-1" clearance on the ground by cutting out the vband and a touch on the pipes currently and then weld them up on the lift. Will make things a lot easier. Started the car up when it was still on jackstands to get the powersteering system bled, no leaks anywhere, so looks like the hose I made will work just fine. A lot cleaner looking to me. Only noise is from when I push the brakes, so maybe my booster is going out. There is an obvious whine from the PS pump when I push the brakes, so hopefully it will "break in" and the noise won't be as bad.