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walther_gsp

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Posts posted by walther_gsp

  1. How accurate is the 2moa at distence? Does the dot cover a lot of the target?

    The accuracy is all in how you use the optic, its no less accurate than a 1moa dot. You could sight it in such that the top of the dot is your poa/poi, and use it kinda like a front sight in a 6 or sub 6 hold for more "precision" or slowfire work. For quick and dirty, center of the dot.

    At 50 yards, it'll cover 1" of the target ,at 100 yards, 2", at 200, 4" etc...

    Also, Eotech makes an EXPS3-4 I believe (could be wrong on model #). It has multiple dots, the typical one directly in the middle for 0-200y, then a dot for 300,400,500y or something to that affect. If you are planning to use it past 200 yards, you have built in hold overs.

  2. Concealed Carry laws have nothing to do with rifles shotguns, just as general rule...so I'd say no.

    Incorrect. This bill updates the definition of loaded gun in a vehicle. That applies for CCW holders and non CCW Holders. CCW holders can transport a loaded pistol any which way they like, but cannot do that with a loaded rifle. Right now, the definition of loaded being a loaded mag, whether or not its inserted into the weapon or the weapon is chambered, is fucked and this fixes that.

  3. Couldn't even transport a handgun into Illinois, I thought.

    Certainly not into Chicago.

    nm, from Illinois State Police website:

    bluearrowbullet.png How do I legally transport a firearm on my person or in my vehicle?

    In order to comply with the Criminal Code, the Wildlife Code, and the Firearm Owner’s Identification Act, when transporting a firearm, it must be:

    1. broken down in a non-functioning state; or
    2. not immediately accessible; or
    3. unloaded and enclosed in a case, firearm carrying box, shipping box, or other container by a person who has been issued a currently valid Firearm Owner’s Identification Card.

    Those statues don't come into play if you are transporting THROUGH Illinois, then only the federal FOPA comes into play.

  4. Kinda off topic but where did you get the slide finished at? And if you don't mind what did it run you for the finish?

    Nice gun But I am good for 9mm as of now with three of them. I kinda like the red dot set up also. would be nice for a house gun set up.

    Free bump.

    I would imagine Bowie did it when they did the other work.

    If you are looking for duracoat, I know a guy near Lodi that is pretty reasonable. However, I'm not sure how I feel about duracoat on a pistol, I think I'd like something a big tougher.

  5. Wonder if that was registered by someone else. If she just pulled it out of a closet now it can't possibly be transferrable?

    Assuming her father filled out the NFA paper work (either paying the tax or during a tax free amnesty), it would be transferable to her via a Form 5. If she doesn't have the paperwork, there *may* be a chance the ATF has a copy, but their records are notoriously bad. Without the paperwork, her only recourse is a museum or torch cutting it.

  6. Got my M&P back from Grant at G&R Tactical. Had him put the APEX DCAEK, and Ram in. He also put in a new housing block and striker as its a early Gen. He polished it all up while he was in there. He also put in a Ameriglo front sight to replace the 10-8 sight I had put in there and didn't like to much. I also stippled a couple more mags.

    I just installed the new AEK trigger in mine today. Still not sure if I have enough over travel in it yet. It required WAY more bending of the loop on the trigger bar than I expected. That said, I'm pretty satisfied with the improvement to the trigger feel.

  7. This is true but QD mounts are cheaper then barrel rethreading and I don't have to wait weeks to use it on my hosts. I do understand what you're saying though.

    Actually, depending on the mount it's the same price. Keep in mind, most competent gunsmiths strive to ensure their threading is concentric to the bore, factory threading , not so much. Now, since you are talking about doing an overbore can, this is less of a concern since the larger diameter means less chance of baffle strikes from a poorly threaded barrel.

    Ti is great for bolt gun cans, but for a semi auto you'll want to do the research to see if they are rated for a decent sustained fire.

    For an AR, I'd lean more towards an Inconel or stainless construction.

    Also, don't use a centerfire can on a 22. 22's will foul the ever loving hell out of a can, and you don't want that in a bigger centerfire can that will likely not be take apart. Get a dedicated .22 can, and get one that comes apart. My recommendation would be the SWR Spectre II. I have the spectre I and the newer version is an improvement, not to mention cheaper.

    Call me before you talk to anyone about purchasing, one of my closest friends is a dealer/class 2 manufacturer and I can probably get you a better deal through him.

  8. We all have opinions, especially experts and folks that really know their shit. Seriously.......I was just "trying" to say that maybe some folks spend more money than they need to, when spending less could possibly give the same results or damn near it.

    The problem lies in when folks who know their shit suggest something, others cry foul over the cost. Scopes for instance. If someone recommends a scope that costs over $200-300, all these guys who have never used anything more than cheap 3-9x go nuts.

  9. Also, since I'm in such a swell mood today, let me know what price you find for the package you are looking at and I'll see if I can't get you a better deal.

    And yet another thing, look at the Stevens 200. It is a Savage action and you may be able to get the base rifle cheaper.

  10. Also, to directly answer your questions...

    The AXIS isn't worth your time unless you plan on selling it when you need something more.

    While the Remington 700 action is better, I would go with a Savage. Savage is your choice due to low entry cost, and the ability to upgrade barrels without a gunsmith. You can get a new barrel in .308, .260, etc.. by a barrel change and bolt swap if you start with a .223. Also, even if you want to stay with 223, you can get a heavier barrel (I'm assuming you are looking at their "hunter" weight options) with a match chamber and a better twist rate. Also, there are lot of good options now for replacement Savage stocks. You can even go real fancy and get an AI chassis or a McCree.

    Since you mentioned distance shooting, you want to get the fastest twist rate you can find to stabilize the heavier bullets when you start reaching out there. Many varmit guns have a 1/12, I believe most of the Savage do 1/9 and the Remington SPS tactical does 1/9. At the very least, get a 1/9 as it gives you the ability to use up to 69gr bullets. You'll want a 1/7 twist eventually if you are looking at shooting the 77gr smk or some of the 80 or 90 gr vld bullets (note you will be loading past mag length so this may) make your gun single feed depending on your mag system.

    A hot 77gr load (think 556 pressure vs 223 pressure) will get you to 1000 yards on a good day. A 223 pressure load with an 80gr vld will probably be better. I have a buddy that likes to shoot his 223AI with 90grainers at 1200yards just to show people it can be done.

    Kevin makes a good point in that if you start with a .243 you won't need to swap bolts if you switch calibers, at least for certain ones that don't need a magnum boltface.

    I know you are looking at their package deals, and I'm not up on the price difference, but opt for a varmit setup in the package vs the standard weight barrels.

    • Upvote 1
  11. I dont agree, there's quite a few here that really know their gunshit, bad advice here is typically sarcastic in nature or just personal preference.....the good outweighs the bad so far on this thread.

    There are quite a few gun owners here. There are far, far less experienced shooters.

    On this thread, it hasn't been bad in terms of bad advice.

  12. I'm researching as well as asking here and a few other forums, so there's homework being done - I don't solely rely on opinions cast here, just like to throw personal input into the mix from experienced shooters. I'd inherited a Rem 30.06 bolt that was primarily a shelf ornament, but I did shoot it as a teen - it was traded off a few years ago for something more home defense oriented. Other than that piece, I've little clue as to what I'm getting into.

    Researching gun shit here is a terrible idea. The ratio of good advice to bad isn't favorable.

  13. Call Rich Hart, he's over in Uniontown by Clearwater. He's a dealer/ccw instructor, however he only does the dealer stuff by appointment as he has a day job with Canton PD as a patrol/swat officer. We went to college together and competed together on the OSU pistol team.

    330-581-3076

  14. Dropped my M&P off with Grant at G&R tactical. He is putting a pro glo front sight post on it, a new sear housing, APEX DCAEK kit, and RAM. He is going to stone and polish the internals also.

    BTW Ross he was impressed with the stipple job.

    You'll be way happier with the trigger. Apex now has a replacement "duty" trigger that I'm putting into my mp9 soon (already have the dcaek kit/ram), you may want to consider that while he has it apart.

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