flounder

Thats good info, thanks. First off I want to let you know that I am by no means an autocad guy or design guy so someone would probably want to look over the parts to make sure everything is good. I also wasnt able to figure out how to add threads to the schematic within the program. The other thing I realized is that I need to add a relief camfer for the rifle side adapter part as well as add undercuts to both thread areas so that the adapter can tighten against the shoulder on the rifle and not the threads. I need to add the same thing on the side where the suppressor will connect so that it also can tighten against the shoulder and not the threads. Looks like I need to a bit of work on it still. I cant remember if I said but I created the parts using Alibre and its my assumption that the program will automatically create the machine code to mill/lathe the part? If this is wrong, please let me know.

Aluminum is not worth the risk especially since the rifle barrel is steel as is the suppressor. The threads are able to handle the stress without problem. These threads are used on rifles all the time and shouldnt cause any problems. Uncle. To answer your question. My rifle is already threaded so yes the end of the barrel has been turned down to accommodate the 5/8x32 threads. The larger end of the adapter need to have have 5/8x32 ID threads to thread over top of the existing barrel threads and will be tight against the barrel shoulder. The suppressor will thread over the smaller end of the adapter which will need to have OD threads of 5/8x24 to accomodate the suppressor and will rest up against the shoulder I have created on the adapter. Hopefully this helps to clarify

Update. I decided to do some design work myself to help out the person cutting the part as well as I love to learn in the process. As you know the adapter is to adapter a suppressor to a rifle that has different cut threads. Here is my design. I will also be creating another adapter which is extremely similar with some different thread types. I like the challenge of learning something knew and knowing I did as much work as possible myself. Onto the meat. I currently have a barrel that is threaded 5/8x32 for a muzzle brake. Im attempting to get a suppressor that would be threaded 5/8x24. I really dont want to cut my barrel down and I also want to be able to use the same can on other rifles so I know I would need adapters. Basically what I have done is design an adapter in Alibre parametric software. I have measured out everything on my current threads as well as used the diagram from can manufacturer site for threading for their cans. Here is the design I came up with. The overall diameter of the barrel side is the same as the diameter of my rifle barrel which is .829. The overall length of the part is 1.415 On the right side is where the can would thread on and would have 5/8x24 threads. Current diameter is at .625 with a .035x30degree camfer as per the manufacture sites says as well as a bore camfer of 15 degrees for a crown. On the inside of this pic is the spot where it would have internal threads of 5/8x32 and I have a depth of .565 which is what my threads are at now from tip of barrel to barrel shoulder. I have also put a 15 degree camfer for where the bullet would enter the adapter. Bore diameter of the adapter is .35 and was based off a measurement of my muzzlebrake which has .33. I went a bit bigger just to be safe. Pic showing depth of .565 to attach to rifle. Any opinions you could give would be greatly appreciated. The reason I used the Alibre software is that it should generate the machine code and anyone should be able to cut the part fairly easily with the proper CNC equipment. Also, if you want the actual schematic diagram and part details from the design program, I would be more then happy to send them to you. I am just one of those guys that likes to do as much as possible myself and learn along the way. I would just take more pride knowing that I designed the adapter myself as opposed to buying one off the shelf from someone. I also understand that I would still have to pay someone to cut the part for me and make any changes to my schematic as well as add the threads to the part.

I want the one with spikes.. That looks like it would be fun if you were in the shower with a lady friend .

There are 9 dolphins I see them. Maybe this will help you.. I put a red dot on each one.. [ATTACH]982[/ATTACH]

You at least need something like water wetter or equivalent to lubricate the seals in the water pump. Also putty, I would still recommend draining it over winter. It takes 10 min to do but you dont want to have to deal with the results if it does manage to freeze on you.

congrats.. sounds like a cool job

That was typed before you sent me your bitching email.

Rip

You probably dont want to run water wetter because you will have to change it back to coolant each fall so that it doesnt freeze during winter. Getting engine ice would be better for you. I run water wetter but I also completely drain my radiator and drain the engine during the winter.

Tanks is the bomb.. Never seen a fight in there.. Tons of UD students go there for the chilli and beers of the world.. I used to live right behind it and yeah you are right, it is definitely in the ghetto.

I gotta say all of the following are great. Dayton - Hamburger Wagon, Tanks, Nortons. Columbus - Thurmans, Brazenhead, Red Door Tavern, Grandview Cafe (has an egg on it). And if your eating a burger at Tanks in Dayton you damn sure better grab a cup/bowl of their chili.. Its the best shit around. Those are listed in no particular order by the way.

The video on the news page was hysterical.

http://www.wlwt.com/cnn-news/19305002/detail.html

Sounds tasty.. Im hungry as all hell right now.. Time for meal 4 of the day.

I like the last one.. Good thing you put it or else I would have. All in good fun.

Pics or GTFO..

Im just going from past experiences and people I know that have delt with it. Honestly, having documentation that you could collect from STT at the track if you crashed would be awesome.

Im going to go ahead and throw out the my hobbies would rival most in terms of cost.. I need to find something cheap like collecting stamps or knitting.

Actually it is the responsibility of the crashed rider to put his insurance company in touch with Monte.

I actually use pieces of wheat bread for knee pucks.

It depends on the bike and its setup and lowering a TAD usually means just a couple of milimeters and not an inch

happy bday

Jess makes a good point sara and makes me think about a few things. Unless you know how to take off all your street plastics and lights and put on your track plastics by yourself, DONT GET THEM. It takes a substantial amount of time to to it and no offense I dont see you being able to do it yourself and it will get really annoying asking someone to come take off your street stuff and put on your track stuff every time you want to do a track day. Not to mention removing all the track stuff and putting it back to street. If you dont have the tools and the ability to swap the plastics on your own, then you dont have any reason to buy them.

Any chance of making this Sunday?