Smokey

give Fowler a call.

State Farm FTW on this one. Plus, they're WAY cheaper on my bike than anybody else. I am a little worried about them not covering HPDE events anymore, but nobody else does either.

Eric you need to man up and get with the KLX races this year!

bump

Nice find. The F4i is a great bike, fast while remaining comfortable enough to ride all day. I noticed you said that it's your first bike, just make sure you take your time while getting used to the bike and you'll have a great ownership experience. Have fun.

If you're concerned about the frame, take it to GMD Computrack (sp?). They'll tell you if the frame is out of spec and should be able to fix it should it be tweaked. I wouldn't worry about the title issues as long as you can get tags for it. You bought it for $500 so I wouldn't expect to make big money on it, but if you get it running you shouldn't take a hard hit on anything.

I'll think about it, and thanks for the offer. Chances are though that if someone doesn't want the whole package I'll just hang on to them.

I realize it's a little late in the season, but my g/f is not going to be needing these this year, so I figure i'd throw this out to see if anyone wants them. I have a set of 16" steelies with Hankook snow tires (can't remember the model off hand) on them. The snow tires have 2 seasons on them (<5000 mi)and plenty of life left. They're not pretty, with a little bit of surface rust, but nothing that a little rattle-bomb wouldn't fix. The wheels are 5x114.4. I had them for my DSM, which I'm sure they'll fit any 1g or 2g car, not positive on 3gs. I also had them on my g/f Mazda 6 and they fit fine without any rubbing or use of spacers. $300. PM is probably the best way to get ahold of me. Thanks.

^^^ correct. Most recently it was every 6K needed valve adjustments and they weren't cheap. For 07 Ducati has made this much less of a concern by extending the valve adjustment interval to 7500, requiring fewer part replacements during the adjustment, and the job will now take fewer labor hours to perform. Granted, this is still a long way off from the 14K adjustments of my 636, but it's a step in the right direction.

for parts, as you asked originally http://www.pelicanparts.com http://www.bimmerworld.com other resources to check http://www.bimmerforums.com http://www.bimmerdiy.com

If I'm looking to relive the college glory days it'll either be 1. 30-pack of Stones (keystone light) and a few games of beer pong 2. edward 40-hands. Everybody buys 2 40s of OE (or your personal preference) and duct tape them to your hands, can't take them off till you finish both...gets interesting. otherwise I'm just to old for that shit and I'll drink a Harp

PM me your email address. I may have something that will work for you.

definately do the factory timing belt, I've done aftermarket tensioners before with good sucess, but if in doubt, get those from Mitsu as well

Are you still driving your Talon? If so then 2 12"s are going to be way overkill unless you're trying to be annoying with your stereo. 1 12" will give you all the sound and volume you would ever want. You've been given good advise above that you sould buy a QUALITY amp, this will make all the difference. You've got 6 speakers in your car, 4" in the dash, 5.25" in the doors, and a goofy size in the rear sides (if I'm remembering correctly it's not quite a 6x9). If you research a bit you'll find people have had good sucess with doing components in the door and mounting the tweeter in the plastic up by your mirrors on the doors. If you don't want to go that route nicely upgraded speakers in the stock locations will sound nice. Be aware though that to put a decent 6x9 in the rear will usually involve "clearancing" the rear fender for additional depth (read: bashing the inner fender with a hammer to get the speaker to fit). I opted not to do this and was still satisfied with the sound. Also, if you have the rear hatch cover on your car it will help keep thieves eyes from seeing something they like. If you don't have one, get one.

Are you keeping the bike outside down on campus (OSU)? Desperado is correct that any real thief who steals bikes will find a way through or around that chain. Ultimately a disc lock will do the same amount of protection. The chain just looks more menacing. The pole idea isn't going to do anything, and without doing a ground anchor/wheel lock all it takes is 3 large gentlemen to pick your bike up and put it in the bed of a truck (this is still applicable with the chain or disc lock) I worked in the bike industry for about 5 years and I can say that many people try many things, but the best protection is to put good insurance on the bike, because that's the only thing that will help you sleep at night. My suggestion for storing the bike outside would be to invest in a good all-weather cover, and a disc lock with an alarm on it. The cover and alarm on the disc lock will keep the random drunk or passer by from sitting on your bike and making vroom-vroom noises, and if you're in a populated enough area the alarm on the disc lock MAY somewhat deter a thief to consider a less protected bike.

quite impressive! Sounds like you've had some serious fun out there. I do HPDEs as I don't quite have the pockets to race wheel to wheel at this point in life. I also do track days with my bike (road course) and have done so for about 7 years now. I've been going to watch road racing since before I can remember, so it's just what I like to do. I don't really drag race, but have nothing against it. It's just not really my bag. I'll go up to PaceMaker every now and then to watch my friends run at a test and tune. I'm not much of a street racer, other than the random impromptu run-in, which are always fun. Plus, my car isn't very quick in a straight line, but suprises quite a few in the twisties (clover-leaf races anyone?)

This is a very good point...while it can be somewhat expensive to have a shop do this consider it much cheaper than rebuilding the motor. If your car has over 60K miles on it (which I'm assuming it does) and you do not know the history of the timing belt, then replace it. Make sure to use a factory replacement not one of the cheap kits you can buy, and replace the tensioners and pulleys as well. or if you don't do this and you munch a motor, you can always buy my spare 6-bolt longblock I have sitting in my garage

very true. I was just trying to put a realistic number on what I had read in the newest Motorcyclist where they state that "in anything other than a straight line high speed race the Ducati will run neck and neck with all of the Japanese liter bikes". To be honest, you're right that most focused v-twin sport bikes (RC-51, Mille R) do not make very good street bikes. They have much more engine braking which can make for some abrupt on-off throttle transitions which makes riding in stop and go traffic a pain. Plus the RC-51 will absolutely bake your legs should you get into traffic, and I'm sure that the Mille and Ducati wouldn't be much different. Plus, i hate the sound of a dry clutch...rattling all over the place sounding like it's going to fall apart. BUT...I would forget all of those faults every time that I went in the garage to look at my HOT ass bike, and fired it up with a set of Termignoni (sp) pipes on it, and it gave me wood each time.

in response to that though, most people don't use their street bikes to engage in highway races either. From the articles that I've read the only place you're going to really be able to beat this Ducati with your 10R is in a straight line race above about 125mph. I realize it's funny to say as we're posting on columbus racing but not everyone will be getting into situations like that. I use my bike quite a bit on the track and have modified it specifically for the track. Of the roughly 8k miles on my bike roughly 1500 of them are track time, and if I bought a 1098 or more likely a 1098S you can bet your ass it'll be on the track. I'm not saying that this bike is better than Japanese sportbikes (hell, I've shown my fare share of 996s and 998s a thing or two at the track) they're just two different ways of having fun.

I'm very impressed for a 1100cc V-Twin, making similar power to 4 cyllinders is very hard to do. I've always ridden Japanese sport bikes and said that I'd never buy a Ducati because of the cost/performance ratio, but this bike has me thinking twice. It's not only lighter than the 999 by 20ish pounds and make the same power as the 999R, but it's also 3K cheaper than the standard 999. Should I ever sell the 636, this could very well be my next bike. Plus, look at the bike...pure sex

bump up an old ass thread. Motorsports of Columbus should do a tire that you did not buy there. It's 1 hour of labor if it's on the bike for a sport bike, and 1/2 hr if you take the wheel off and take it in. just wish it was still Classic sometimes you know kyle...

I'm glad to hear that it's just the switch and you're getting it fixed. You'll definately want to read up as much as you can here http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=22 That should answer a LOT of your questions about your car as well as give you an idea of what you want to do with it in the future. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643&highlight=%22idle+surge%22 That thread covers a checklist of things to cover relating to the infamous idle surge that plagues many DSMs. If you still have the stock intercooler and pipes, I'd start with checking for any boost/vaccum leaks. Do you have a boost gauge on the car (other than the factory one)? If so, what is the vaccum at idle? Let me know if you have any other questions, you can PM me or just reply here.

As long as you know that there is clean oil in the proper level in the car, then you're heading in the right direction. I had a 92 just like yours for years. First you should join and READ a lot on the DSM forums. Those are http://www.dsmtalk.com and http://www.dsmtuners.com in case you haven't already done so. There is a lot of good info there, but you're also going to have to sort through some BS. On those websites you will find that DSMs are suseptable to "lifter tick" which is due to a poor design in the hydraulic lifters in the 4G63 motors. You can fix this by replacing the lifters (which is generally more work than it's worth if you're not replacing the cams too) with the updated units from the later model cars. The ticking will be worse when it's cold out here in columbus winters as well. Does your gauge just read no pressure all the time, or does it change and always seem to read lower than you'd like? If it's not reading anything, then chances are that the electrical connector on the end of the sender came off. This is very common and annoying. If you look under your car by the driver's side front tire and see a wire hanging down with a little black clip on it, then that's your problem. If so, let me know and I'll help you get it back on. Does your car idle rough or does the idle jump around like it's surging? If it's just rough, what RPM is it idling at when warm?