Smokey

I agree with Brian I'm not a fan of this move. Will be skipping Sunday for sure.

Love this car, and great shots bring it out even more. I also would leave the wheels, they keep the car feeling "period correct".

I drove to work today with the HP+ in the car and remembered why I can't wait to put back in the HPS. They stop just fine in the cold, but squeak and squeal something awesome. I still maintain that if you're main function is stopping from high speed more than once then do at least the HP+. As Tinman pointed out, if you're only going to have to do it one time and not worry about anything after that, then HPS will work.

HP Plus then, and just deal with the dust. HPS are nice pads but I wouldn't pick them if the primary use is for "stopping the car from obsenely high speeds". The more you lean toward stopping as the primary function of the pads and less toward street civility then I'd consider the HT or DTC pads as well.

I have a tune for a 506 DME without traction control or EWS. The chip was programmed by Karl Hugh who is the programmer for Active Autoworks and he does tunes on the side. It is not marked AA but is the same tune. This particular chip was tuned for me using the a S50 with a stock HFM, stock injectors, aftermarket 3" intake and a catback exhaust. This chip also removes the speed limiter and raises the rev limiter. $60

So Eric, I guess we never asked. What are you trying to buy these pads to do? -Purely street I'd go with the ceramics. -Street/auto-x buy the HPS. -If you're going to track it somewhere that there aren't huge brake needs (like Nelson), then HP+. -Heavy track use, HT-10, DTC-60, DTC-70. All in the Hawk lineup which is pretty good all around, and all very reasonably priced. I have HPS for my street pads, HP+ that I've used successfully at Nelson, and HT-10s for Mid-Ohio.

wow. Very sorry to hear about your loss, but glad at least that you had some coverage to carry you through.

Avoid the hps if you don't like dust. They're a good pad but not the best street manners with regard to dust and sometimes noise. FWIW I run them on the street in the FD.

I am envious of your door panels (other e36 owners know why)

Rule #1: saving money on the purchase price of a FD will almost always cost you more money in the long run.

15psi on the stock intercooler isn't a good idea. Definite respray on the front and lack of masking means that job was cheaped out on. Could still be a good starting point though. just ditch the wheels and keep the boost down.

Good advice in here, but one important thing you must remember....you have to have the discipline to invest the "savings" over the term policy. Most people I have seen try that method start out investing the extra money and then over time find one reason or another that they need to use that money elsewhere (daycare, bills pile up, sickness, etc). My wife and I have whole life policies and a convertible term (like Clay mentioned) because I knew I wanted to ensure I would always continue that investment. While it's not a huge money maker, I'm guaranteed to die and someone gets the benefit at some point. Plus, I'll never put in more than I get as a benefit so no worry about investment losses. So Clay...are you the one I see about getting me a guaranteed 10% or more return each year like the example states?

I'll have to actually get my ass out to a C&C this year and you can give me the details. I'm not that hot on the idea of masking off everything and spraying it.

Sweet build. Can I see how the hammer paint came out in person sometime? I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to paint my upcoming roll bar.

If possible, you'll want to figure out what ECU it was running before. If it was successfully running on a stock ECU (doubtful if the car is modified), then you could just plug it in and go. What's more likely is that the car was running an aftermarket ECU such as an Apex-i Power FC. That system would plug in right where the stock one does and require a specfic tune for the car. It would also be worth some money, so it would make sense that it would be taken out of the car and sold if they didn't care to deal with the car anymore. Any way you can tell us what modifications have been done to the car to give a better idea of what you'll need ECU-wise in order to run it?

This.

not difficult to work on, but money and time intensive. If it's your only car stay FAR AWAY! They can be made plenty reliable, but the maintenance/running costs will make the car undesireable for DD. Plus it's the least utilitarian car listed. If it'll be a weekend/fun car, then it's worth considering buying a nice one (think more in the $15K+ range, don't look at the ones under $10K) as long as you're not going to always try to get 500whp out of it.

I would shoot someone in the face to have a white 965 done by Rauh Welt like the Hoonigan car....but thems' air cooled cars is 'spensive!

Bah. We'll get you back, don't worry. -Yankees fan since I played little league

State Farm just did this to me over a damn $5,000 basement flooding claim, I was caught a bit off guard about it since it's the only claim I've ever had with them. My basement was flooded last July when the power went out and just about everybody from Westerville to New Albany flooded. I believe it was listed as a catastophe as they had to bring in adjusters from across the nation to handle the volume. Do I have a leg to stand on with my insurance company to fight my deductable increase or do I just have to take it?

Looks like it was a good thing we got to Easton before anyone was there and left. Bummer that nobody was at Lennox at 8:30 though.

Yeah. Took it to Goodguys last summer. He had some driveshaft problems but was able to recently get those fixed as well. Should be good to cruise.

:no: I'm second guessing running 255s on a 8.5 this year. I can't even imagine the amount of sidewall bubble and flex that will happen with 275s on an 8.0 wheel. Good thing you're only planning on going straight.

I should be there in the stink machine, and hopefully with big Rob and his 67' Deville if he's feeling better. Not sure if I'll be at Easton or not...may depend on my need to sleep in or not. Something to note, I went through downtown twice yesterday and the police are heavily monitoring the construction area on 670 where it goes down to 45mph. Be careful out there.

Welcome back