dorifto240

A few hundred people (including this forums poll), like minded or otherwise, do not add up to Society at Large.

Photos are up! Thank you everyone again for coming out. We're definitely doing this again.

This poll is a bit skewed, suspect, and not really an appropriate measure. If we had a larger random sample to work with, then I'd be more inclined to agree with you.

Thank you Aaron and Brent for coming out to the show today! I'll have photos up tomorrow at Grease Monkey Magazine. Also, a special thank you to the following: Rice Paddy Motorcycles Venturi Moto Barrel & Bottle/Bodega Capital City Scooter Miz (for the trophy) Co-Oh Vin Moto Chris Daniels Kareem and Milk Bar (Make sure to come to Pinned on May 21st) And the guys from House Night!

Wrapped up the paint tonight on the tank. I'm cool with the runs, I know I'm going to spill gasoline on it at some point.

I was thinking about this last night. The answer can go either way, you can either divide first or multiply first. But... In these types of situations social norms and mores step in and dictate what will be done. For a large portion of the world, we're taught multiply then divide. Simply because that is what our society has chosen as correct, in this instance makes it correct. From a strictly technical side of things, both are correct. Also, both are completely arbitrary and abstract. In those instances, society takes over and decides a "right" or "best" answer. Either intentionally, or through random chance (bubble gum is pink, because the inventor only had red food coloring at the time) something is chosen. There's nothing wrong with 288, it's not incorrect mathematically speaking. But it's not the best answer according to society. We're mostly taught multiplication first, then division. Some deep thinking mathematicians will disagree, but no one will listen, and those that do, will never get this question right on a test anywhere else. So the answer is 2.

I concur People like that are still around, but society has forgotten to honor and respect them as heroes.

Two days worth of welding at my buddies shop (I had to re-weld everything. The MIG had run out of gas, and didn't give a good weld, so we busted out the Lincoln Electric Stick welder, and they let me smoke up the place.) and a $27.00 trip to Lowes netted me this: And the various bits and pieces I need to finish this bike. While I was welding, the heat reacted with the metal, and gave everything a bronze tint. I really liked the look of it, and I wanted something easy to lay on, that would be reasonably tough. Rust-Oleum Hammer Finish it is! I also painted the tank with a can of "sand" rust-oleum I had lying around. To speed up the drying time, I rigged a heater and a box to form a make shift oven. Worked really well. I did three coats in roughly two hours. I'm going to go back and lay out a white scallop or something, and toss some pinstriping on there for awesomeness sake! The frame all "bronzed" up and ready. The pitting from it being left outside and half submerged in a river (seriously) gives the frame a really awesome texture. And I'm not embarrassed by my fat, ugly welds, so apart from some fitment issues, I haven't ground anything on the frame. Why would I, this thing has more character and story behind it than a J.R.R Tolkien book. Authentic Gran Turissmos! Made in Italy. I found those in a $5.00 bin. Seriously! The clip-ons were a gift. I'm not going to lie, I doubt this will be running by Saturday. And this build is starting to take it's toll. I think I broke my thumb trying to smash the old steering stem races out and I definitely lost my mind for about 10 minutes when the motor mount holes didn't quite line up. At this point, it's just a matter of finishing it. Total Cost thus far: $238.00

Remember when your math teacher said numbers never lie, 2+2 always equals four: They were wrong.

Sort of. I've run into formatting issues when I switch between the two, most of the time it's minor things, but occasionally I've had some major issues with photo layouts, updated graphics, saving files, etc.

Not much unfortunately, unless you want to buy a diesel. Or get radical with some fiberglass. According to the designer it uses 30% less fuel, and that's just based on aerodynamics (based on long hauls, not around town driving. I'm not giving an inch on the aerodynamics argument Jporter12 ) They didn't touch the engine at all.

You're right on the real world, which is why I also suggested areas where you can do 35 without too many stops. Tough, I agree, but doable. Fuel consumption, torque, and power are three very different things, that aren't always related. All I'm saying is that the closer to idle you can keep your car while driving, the more efficient it will be. Especially if you can keep it at a consistent speed, like you've pointed out. At most driving speeds, aerodynamics don't matter. The difference between a van and a car is like the difference between a brick on it's side and a brick standing up. There are a few exceptions (the Honda Insight or late 90s Ford Taurus), but most cars are not really designed to move through the air as efficiently as they could be. Even sports cars are designed to force the car down onto the ground, not move the car smoothly through the air. All I'm saying, is drive the truck 55mph and turn the radio up so you can't hear the angry motorists. Then flip them off when they're filling up at the next gas station...

It has very little to do with aerodynamics, and more to do with how hard the engine is working. Your intrepid gets 30mpg on the freeway at 70 because you're near an optimum gearing. If you were doing 55mph, you'd probably get closer to 40. 35mph without having to stop, with the engine in a higher gear means the engine is barely above idle. So it isn't really working, and therefore doesn't need much gas. Shell got 376 mpg with a 1959 Opel Read more I forgot that if an opinion on something differs from yours it's automatically wrong. My fault. Thanks, although the turning off the car thing actually does work.

Unless you plan on making a sudden high speed U-turn, what do you need power steering for? Plus there's enough pressure in the brake system to give you one good stop. So don't waste it.

Turn your truck off at every stop light, in fact put it in neutral and turn it off as you're coasting to a stop. Try to coast as long as possible. It's all about momentum, not speed or power. It might shorten the life of your starter, but the money you save over the next few fill ups will pay for it. Never drive above 55, in fact, never drive above 35 if you can. Pick routes that don't have many stops, and try to keep your engine RPMs near the idle range. Buy a tonneau cover. My friend got his truck from 18mpg to around 22mpg after he installed one. Also, keep the truck clean on the inside. In fact, gut it of everything non-essential. Sorry but: You're going to have to drive it like your grandmother is asleep in the trunk, holding the last Fabergé Egg ever made in Tsarist Russia. When I was commuting to Mt Vernon, I was pulling 35mpg in the city and 45-50mpg on the freeway in a 95 Nissan240sx. I could have probably gotten 60mpg on the freeway, but it was a boring commute.

I need this sold: $800.

This thing looks incredible!

Owing to the fact I'm installing such a large engine on such a smallish frame, brackets are in order. I was able to use the one of the original engine mounting points, but that was it. The rear engine bracket will weld onto the lower frame mount and along the rear support tube. It should tie that section of the frame together nicely. The other two are basically gussets. The smallest being a reinforcement for the neck and the second smallest will reinforce the main backbone. When the upper engine mount is cut and welded in, it will work inline with the neck and back bone gussets to spread the weight and stresses evenly. I hope. I did have a dream of this thing disintegrating beneath me at 65mph, but that's probably unrelated. Made three of the four sets of brackets tonight. Once I dialed in the speed on the jig saw, it cut like butter and wasn't too difficult. Half way done, one saw blade down. And that work bench is a life saver! You can see the outline of the initial shape I wanted, and I still might grind that curve out anyways. I want to see how it looks on the frame. The flat stock was $12.00 at TSC, minus $20 from sandblasting (it only took the guy 40 minutes, so he pro-rated me), brings me to $211.

Frame came back from the sand blaster today, and looks incredible! I also noticed that the CB450 nighthawk swing arm looked similar to the original CL175 swingarm. I was able to get one and sure enough it bolts right up and will only need a few shims to get a solid fit. PLUS it's a few inches longer than the CB750A swingarm, but is still wide enough for the CB750 rear wheel. I did have to grind the axle slot out some to allow for the larger rear axle, but other than that nothing crazy. Thin. Thin is good. I have some fit and finish issues to work out, but nothing that spacers, shims, or washers can't remedy. Next up is the engine brackets.

I upped the jet size, but I honestly don't know. I'm going to try it with this setup, and if the engine runs lean, I'll order larger jets. Thankfully, Honda used the same style of carburetor on most of the XR/XL series, and jets aren't difficult to order.

If the float needles are new it won't be a problem. But too much gas flowing into the carbs can overwhelm the seal and push too much fuel into the carbs and then into the engine and out onto your filters. But just guessing by the picture of your petcocks, it doesn't look like it will be an issue.

Sent the frame out to be sand blasted yesterday, should get it back by the end of the week. $60.00 I thought was a fair price. Brings my total cost to $219.

And your wish has been granted:

The tail and brake light idea is going to look awesome!

I just buttoned up the kickstart conversion on that FT500 engine you sold me. Don't know if it works yet, but it looks good! I cannot wait to see this bike!