Moto-Brian

I think you might be right on the R6. I haven't seen one like what we do with the GSXR and RC8 for example... Hmmmm...

Nate- Another friendly suggestion would be to place your rotation stickers on the middle area of the rim. When the tire guys balance your wheels and have to place a weight strip on that cool sticker, you will instantly need new ones... On the middle right up against the inner lip is a good spot - right next to the hole for the nipple.

Dude, you need to use the diaper pins like I showed if you are going to start racing. You'll understand the moment you need tires changed and have to get stuff ready for grid... Also, flip the axle around to where the nut is on rider's left. If a bearing would seize, it will lock the wheel and not lock on the axle and loosen at the nut and cause issue... Note mine in the pics... Overall, though really good job! I'd run a little thinner gauge stuff. What gauge is that you are using? Also, eliminate the inner pinch bolt. No need for it...

This all occurred right before the light came back on and he heard a deep and low toned voice say "You gots some pretty teeth, boy." Then everything went black again and he woke up, saw the broke shelf and assumed he hit his head on it...

Wasn't taken that way at all. Monte and Bonnie are good peeps. But, just wanted to say that Richard is on the gas and trying to open new possibilities with new partners and I think after the response from the owners of Nelson, it is looking great.

What you can do if only wanting to drill one hole is make sure everything is torqued to spec. Once torqued, take and mark the side of the bolt that would be in the "pull" position. You can use a sharpie or a paint marker, etc. Then, remove the bolt and drill it. Once you have it drilled, put it back on and when torqued properly, you should see it in the exact same position when marked and be good to go. One thing to point out - I HIGHLY suggest to NOT drill while on the bike. It is just a recipe for slipping off or drilling through and damaging something else... Take it off, drill on a press or a jig and put back on...

Yes, Richard is ON IT! Plus, a note to the owners. I have been VERY critical of the ownership over the many years. However, they have been MUCH more approachable and have been in constant contact with Richard. That means more than anything to me. My issues always was based on the fact that it SEEMED the owners didn't care. However, they did and do. It was just something that never got back to us racers. This is an example of the ownership showing they like motorcycles and welcome different organizations that are motorcycle based into their facility. I think this is a great thing for both sides. STT runs a great event and has one of the best programs available. I think that being brought into Nelson Ledges is a great thing and depending on the turn out and success of the events, I believe that the owners will greatly enjoy having STT back and more often through the years! I want to thank Richard for getting this done and thank the owners for allowing this to happen. This is a really big step and I hope we all can support it as much as we can!

Yeah, right... Like that's the real story. I told you when you go to those deep, dark, scary places, take soap on a rope or you'll get surprised every time! Looks like you got surprised!

That's funny! Over the years, I too have used the safety wiring idea on many a vehicle for certain "items" that kept coming loose! It's a universal idea!

Great suggestion on the bolt jig! Plus, using one will result in professional looking holes AND not to mention resolve the frustration of drilling in an angle and snapping a bit...

Well, be careful at what you use thinner or thicker for. I use the heavier gauge stuff on axles and oil drain, etc. I only use the thinner stuff on small bolts like 8mm socket size stuff... I generally use heavier gauge on everything... The thinner stuff can actually break easier. Remember especially around the motor area where the wire gets hot and then cools, gets hot, cools, etc... It will break and you'd be shocked at how much vibration occurs around everything... Especially on twins and 1000s. We find broken wire on the exhaust springs all the time...

Yup. no other way to get it as good. You can use pliers and locking pliers at times, but the twists aren't as tight and uniform. If anyone needs help doing this, let me know. I have the tools and wire...

Who you? Mr. "Took an hour to wire my radiator cap"? Naaaaah!

If you are serious and are thinking that you might want to start racing, you will need to wire some more things of importance. However, if you are an avid track day rider, you really need to consider some of the things I point out simply because over time, your bike can have a lot of bolts that you may never think would, come loose and fall off. Shifter bolts, rearset bolts, etc... Here are some things to consider: Caliper bolts on front and rear. We use the Tygon and diaper pin idea on the calipers because we are always changing tires, brake pads, wheels, etc. The pin idea allows us to do this quickly and efficiently. Same idea applies - do it so that the bolts cannot back out. I have seen calipers fall off. Most likely due to not tightening the bolts, but the idea is that if they wired them, they wouldn't have fallen out. Ask Scott Harwell about a VIR race he ran one year... Front calipers using the pin method: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Axles - front and rear. Axle nuts are prone to loosening from wheels spinning, load, etc. The axles should be wired and using the same idea as you have heard numerous times. We use the pins here, also. We use a smaller pin on the front and a large opine on the rear. Again, has more to do with the fact that we are removing things so often as opposed to looks. This works great for us and if you do not like the look of Tygon, you can use just the wire or use a different colored tubing... Front and rear axles: Front axle using the pin method: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Rear axle using the pin method: NOTE - we use the axle adjusters to anchor to. This allows us a solid point to anchor, but because it is a threaded bolt, we can still adjust the bolt and not have the wire restrict it in any way. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now, something a lot of us may not consider, but is a wise idea. The radiator cap. We again use the pin method as we are always checking and need easy access to this cap. Same idea here. As with any of the pin methods, you need an anchor point. You saw me use the axle adjusters above or another bolt, but here, we use the small neck that goes to the overflow hose. Works great! Uploaded with ImageShack.us Finally, a few things to consider. Bolts like your shifter bolt, rear brake pin, shock top nut and rearset bolts are always coming loose over time. We wire ALL those things. Here is an example of the rearset bolts and how we wire them. I use heat shrink tubing here on the bolts that secure the base plates. We do not use heat shrink on the adjustable bolts due to the fact that we may have to raise or move the rearsets. If we do this, we are wasting the heat shrink tubing... But, the idea is that you don't want to be dropping these bolts on the track. I had a shifter bolt come up from a bike and hit me in the face shield. That was awesome! But, the killer was that I won the race due to the guy in front dropping the bolt and the shifter falling off. No shifting means WIN for me, but ruined his day... Here are the rearset bolts: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Overall, remember the basics. The rest are just suggestions and ideas. If you have something you need an example shown, shoot me a PM or ask here. Don't be intimidated by wiring your bike. Best bet is to NEVER drill a bolt on the bike. NEVER! Take the bolt out and put it in a vice and drill it off the bike. Drill presses are optimal, but we have done many a bolt at the track with simply pliers. But, take your time and really, the best thing you can do is PRACTICE! Just like seat time on the track. The more you get, the more comfortable you get and most likely, the better at it you become. Hope this all helped a bit. Let's keep the thread from going off course and keep it on topic as I think it is a great reference tool for many of you out there. If there is anything I missed or is wrong, let me know and I will correct. Have fun!

I detailed a guide to safety wiring your bike based on the typical requirements of STT. However, this is also required by other ors or especially if you are racing. If racing, you need to wire a few more items, but overall, this should help get you started! I broke it up into the three levels seen at an STT event and what we require in those levels. Let's start with Intermediate first. Intermediate is required to have AT MINIMUM, silicone on oil drain plugs and oil filter. It is highly suggested to wire as what is described below, but silicone as minimal is fine. Now, some people get a little crazy with the silicone. You only need a small amount. You gooping it on and coating the entire thing in a mass of silicone is messy and is going to be a bear to clean up when you decide to remove it... Here's an example of silicone being used. Just a small dab on the bolt and where it meets the area it secures to. This allows it to not rotate... Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now, a suggestion for the Intermediate riders. Safety wire is your best idea when riding at the track. I know some of you are concerned over drilling holes in bolts or drilling holes in bolts and having them showing when you go to sell the bike. My suggestion is to get with the guys at Iron Pony, STG, etc. and buy a really cool oil fill cap and an OEM style drain bolt. You can actually get pre-drilled versions and that would satisfy the person not so sure on drilling. In any case, there are solutions. Advanced riders - for 2011, it is required to have the oil fill cap, oil drain bolt and oil filter safety wired for STT events. This is something that is very easy to do and with some practice, you can get it down to a science and zip through this stuff rather quickly. I am going to show a few suggestions to make the process a LOT less cumbersome and less labor intensive. Let's start at the top. What does a proper safety wiring job look like? The idea is that the wire is essentially pulling the bolt tight. That means that via vibration, the bolt will not back out and loosen. The ol' "righty, tighty - lefty, lousy" applies. If you are pulling a bolt tight, it needs to be pulled in the direction of "righty, tighty". SPECIAL NOTE: Try and do a small pig tail after you cut the wire once it is tightened to the anchoring point. See the picture below and notice we roll the wire in a U-shape or pig tail. This is because safety wire will cut you quick and if you do not pig tail it, you stand a really good chance of getting sliced open pretty easily... Here are two bolts that are wired and showing this idea: Uploaded with ImageShack.us You can use this idea with one bolt or many bolts wired together. All you need to do is look at the bolt and decide which way it needs to be pulled in order to tighten. Once you figure that out, that's where you pull from and secure at a point that allows the wire to not let the bolt loosen... So, taking that idea, let's talk oil filler cap. The same idea applies. You need to be pulling or in the case of what I will show you, not allow the cap to rotate counter clockwise and loosen. This is an example of a suggested idea for you riders out there. We are constantly changing oil. That means for every oil change, we would need to cut the wire, remove the cap and then re-wire it before a race. In the interest of convenience, we use a diaper style pin and wire it to an anchoring point to essentially do the exact same thing hard wiring would do, but the added convenience of being able to remove the pin to have access to the cap and simply re-pin the cap when tightened and off we roll. When doing this, use a small covering to allow you from getting the wire exposed. Not needed, won't cause harm if not covered, but it is so much more professional. You can also use shrink tubing to do the same thing and an example is shown later. We use Aircraft Tygon Tubing. I like the yellow color and it has a smaller I.D. for the wire we use. You can access this product in different colors and different sizes from McMaster-Carr... Here is an oil fill cap wired using a clip: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now, the oil filter. Believe it or not, filters CAN back out. Many times, it is due to the owner not removing the o-ring that stuck to the motor from the old filter, but even without that old o-ring, it can vibrate and back out enough to leak. The idea is to treat the oil filter like a giant bolt. But, how do you drill an oil filter? The folks at K&N thought about this and they are one of the only companies that have a filter with a welded nut on the end with holes drilled through it. This is a point to wire from and secure the filter. Iron Pony, STG, etc. sell K&N filters and you can try this for yourself. VERY convenient! BUT, if you are like us, we use the OEM filters or Vesrah filters (also available through STG!!). This means, you cannot drill a wire point in the filter. PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE LIP OF THE FILTER!!! So, what do you do? Buy a hose clamp that will fit around the oil filter. A 3" or similar should do the trick. Tighten the clamp around the filter and use the bolt that you use to tighten to act as a wire point. Simply wire around the bolt housing and place the housing so that it is in about the 7 o'clock position if looking directly at the top of the filter. Finally, pull the wire to a point that is pulling the filter tight to prevent it from loosening up. You can see here, we have a point somewhat far away from the clamp, but it works. It still does the same job... Safety wired oil filter via using the band clamp method: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Now to the drain bolt. The drain bolt is the leading cause of dropping oil on a track from rider neglect. You can always check the oil drain bolt to make sure it is secure. Wiring it also allows you one more time to check the bolt to make sure it is secure. Everything you have seen so far applies to the drain bolt also. Pull the drain bolt tight and anchor the wire to a point that will not allow the bolt to back out. Here, we have to pull it up along the side of the oil pan, but again, it is tight and is pulling it tight and no chance of it loosening and dropping oil. Oil drain bolt: Uploaded with ImageShack.us So, that covers what the minimal requirements are. Now, on to some suggestions and ideas in the next post!

Hahaha! No doubt! I made two posts since not everyone is a member of this group. I think Ben mentioned 100 members are able to see these threads? I did a general post so that it was for the other folks that I felt I should say sorry to... I think Ben was cool with it.

No doubt! That dude should have stopped sooner, also! Can you believe what he stated on RRW prior also? Whoa!!

Are you sure it was that low a number? I kid. It was good talking to you, Ben. New found perspective for sure.

I always try and wear a leather jacket, gauntlet gloves and of course a full face helmet. I hate wearing jeans, but I will wear SHIFT's Kevlar lined jeans and my road race boots. I have as of the last two rides worn textile jacket and textile pants. Felt weird to not have the leather... Dunno if the textile is for me on a mental note vs. safety. I think textiles are pretty damn good and have even seen a mesh jacket that was in a low side at above 60 mph and saved a person's skin. So, textiles are good. But, my mental state is leather is best - in my mind as to the whole track stuff... But man, that leather is a KILLER in the summer!

Thanks. Hopefully I earn the same response from others...

To my fellow OR members and fellow riders. I have had a series of events lead up to some issues where I was shown a few things about myself. It was not a good light to be under... In any case, my actions on this and a few other forums have led me to understand why many of you feel I am an asshole and a guy that just seemingly attacks and jabs at many of you. I want to apologize for my behavior and my actions on this site. I know this may sound hollow and even cause a bunch of negative responses, but I wanted to apologize for how I have acted over the years. I am an enthusiast and one that has had motorcycles at the center of EVERYTHING I have ever done since I can remember. Ever since watching Roberts race at Daytona, I was hooked. I knew motorcycles was where I would end up. I never dreamed it would have ended up where it is now for me. I have truly been blessed over the almost 20 years in being a part at the dealer level to race support for some of the best athletes in our sport. I have always wanted to give back and to help as many as I could become involved or helped along the way in our sport. But, I have a few issues personally. I don't know when to knock things off. I don't know when to stop and pull away from the keyboard. I feel my emotions and passion for this sport get the better of me and it comes across as arrogant, ignorant and hurtful to some. And, truth be told, a lot of the things people say are deserved and cannot be changed with a simple thread and an apology. But, my goal is to change. I am going to settle in a bit and stay low profile. I will try and be as positive as I can and to simply offer assistance and guidance. I want people to respect me and to do that, I have a LOT of earning to do. In any case, to those that do not know what I am referring, I will hopefully win you over. For those that know what I am referring to in terms of my presence on this site, I hope that I can change your perception of who I am and how I act. Hopefully that will show in time. So again, I apologize for being such an asshole and hurtful. To those I have offended over the years, my deepest apologies. To those that have judged me from what I have done or said, hopefully you can see some positives come from this and we can start fresh. Cheers, Brian

I gotta say a few things. I am pretty much sitting here feeling pretty low about the way I have handled myself. I wanted to let everyone know that I agree with about everything anyone has said in the most recent thread in this section. I also want to say that I deserve what was dished out and need to eat crow on a few things. I wanted to post an apology in this section for a few reasons. There are a limited number of people in this area of the site and I insulted many and I have also made myself look pretty stupid. Concerning the most recent thread, my intention was to simply inform everyone. I am an enthusiast. I am a rider, racer and avid motorcycle fan. I have been blessed to work inside the industry for many, MANY years. I have always wanted to share as much as I can with my fellow enthusiasts and really meant nothing other than to give out some info on bikes that I have personally been around and enjoyed. However, I crossed the line on NUMEROUS accounts. I understand the situation I put myself in. At the time, I was upset that I got it pulled. I really try hard to put some thought into what I write and the details I add. That took some work and to have it ripped away and deleted had me NOT thinking or reflecting as to why it was, but rather, I was just pissed it got pulled. So, I act like my typical self and post a stupid thread asking why. It started off with the reasons as stated by Casper and others. But, I was fuming and ignored and just kept pushing. And pushing... My issues are well documented in the infraction thread and to avoid rehashing it over and over, many of you hit the proverbial nail on the head. I am an asshole on forums. I have tried as of late to calm it down or tone it down, but I revert back and this last thread had me going off the deep end. I felt as if a few little things were jabs from other issues in the past. Ben and Carie and Shitty and Adam all know what happened and it isn't the place to discuss or go into detail. I am willing to discuss to some, but I felt that it was personal and on a public forum, it just wasn't the place. So, I blew a gasket. I insulted a lot of people. Jagr, John, Magley, Fonzie, Ben, Carie, and others. The thing with me is that I am a guy that will say those things in person. I don't hide behind keyboard as I am passionate and truthful in what I say. The issue is I need to know when to step away. I also need to know when the time to argue is and when the time to STFU is. I have trouble with that... I get bummed a lot of times because my intentions are to be as helpful as I can to my fellow enthusiasts. I have always offered help, offered tools, offered anything that a guy needs to help in their own riding and especially their racing and track days. I WANT to be able to get as many people involved in our great sport as I can. I also targeted Ben a lot as of late and in the last year or so. He's a good dude. I insulted him with the non-profit stuff, with the bike comparisons, with the bullshit and petty stuff he has said. I misunderstood what was going on from a while ago and thought things in a wrong perspective. He has stood up when he didn't have to. He's respected me when he certainly never needed to. And, all the while, I acted like a douche. I also shouldn't have insulted Fonzie. I know he is a guy that holds great events and really tries to make it a wonderful sport to be a part of. My comments were really intended to be guy to guy. My under the desk comment was really a jab like me saying he didn't deserve his position and he must have done some favors to get it. That was wrong, inconsiderate and insulting to both him and Ben. I went over the line and then when it came back against me, I couldn't accept it. In the end, what my goal in all of this is to simply be involved in helping people with their track and race stuff. I read what was posted stating that people think I brag and that I tell people I am the best and that I ride the fastest bikes, etc. That really hurt. I think if you ask, I am pretty humble about my accomplishments and my ability. I will throw down on someone bragging and maybe that is what it came down to. Maybe I insulted someone doing that. But, I NEVER want to come across as bragging about what I have done. Hell, I am not that fast and I certainly know a SHIT PILE of other, more accomplished racers and riders. But, I do feel I have some knowledge. I feel I can give some of that to others to help them. I want to help as many as I can especially when it comes to the track. It has been a core part of my life for 17 plus years and I may not know everything, but I feel I can help. Anyways, I am sure this will spill over into some bashing and well deserved comments aimed at me. However, my intentions are real and I really will try harder. This ban has been a good thing. I apologize to the mods that have had to clean up my shit storms. I apologize to the mods I insulted. I apologize to the members that I hurt and I apologize to the members that have to read this crap and feel as if this could be a bad place to hang. OR is a cool site. It is the place to be for Ohio riders and enthusiasts. Again, my apologies. Sorry for my tangent thoughts, also. Cheers, Brian

Just because I am feeling a bit saucy... If you ride your bike as fast as your mouth moves while on the bandwagon, you MIGHT just be as fast as some of the guys on here and maybe even have some skill at riding a bike. But, doubt you'd ever be up for a little run for slips. So, we will all enjoy the loose lip service you offer. Do you ride or just type?

Fonzie, look. Not very many people like you at all. Why you are a mod when you act the way you do is beyond me, but as Ben stated, he does it for the people and not himself. So, whatever you do when under the desk is between you two. Do me a favor - lay off. If you have something constructive to add or maybe something even whitty, by all means. STT was dropped because we weren't going to sponsor again and thought it was confusing doing the KTM stuff and the STT stuff and the Mid-Ohio stuff. I changed when we became a sponsor. Not that I should have to explain, but since you like to stir shit up, there ya go. You seem to have little dick syndrome and that's perfectly fine. There have been some really fine examples of what people stated in this thread that were civil and professional. Then, the little gang bang group keeps it going with the slams and the personal attacks. I'm pretty much fed up. Not to mention the pack rat of followers that wanna get attention like the feedback that John gave. Nice touch. Real manly. To the guys that I do not mean to lump in to the group - shitty, redkow, twizted, and a few others I am forgetting - I apologize as I am not associating you with the other loud mouths and shit stirrers. I appreciate your comments and will always invite you to sit and shoot the shit any time. All this over a stupid thread about bikes... You guys are a real trip. And I get the sarcastic "classy" comment...

It was a low blow, man. I just was a bit on edge and took your post the wrong way most likely. Everyone who has a bike is a rider and that's cool in my book. We buy what we like and what we can afford. I take it back. Actually was one of my favorite bikes back then and still is an awesome looking machine.