Moto-Brian

All Vs are the A compound... The V is for the profile - much more "V" shaped for better turn in and a larger side patch for extreme lean angles. It has nothing to do with your speed as much as it does what you want the bike to do and what you feel comfortable with. Many a fast guy run the traditional non V fronts... It's how the bike is setup and how you ride...

Zorro, you are certainly smooth and cinsistant which makes passing an easy thing. However, that doesn't go for everyone. I've watched guys run 38s and even 36s at 95% of their ability. Wound tight, taking chances and riding WELL beyond their ability level. So, it isn't solely about speed. But, I will say that if there are riders following lines that are not correct and are running slower, they put faster riders and themselves at risk. It's a debate that goes on for every track day company. But to hear that having fun is the main thing, it goes for maybe Novice riders, but it certainly is important and a top ingredient, but there's a TON of other items that need addressed and taught.

You don't get it. Why is it automatically a "race" when someone states that certain times are not safe at certain levels? You think a 1:45 is fine when guys are running rather easily at 33s? seriously? Each track day has it's differences in speed. That day, :45 is boarderline. In a 20 minute session, they will see the :45 guy probably twice as they will leave the pits first... IF the guy isn't smooth like Zorro is, that meeting or those meetings can be sketchy at best... I know you ignore my comments and I am somewhat baffled at you being an instructor with little experience. I will also say that the line choices you use are not conducive of teaching proper line usage and proper bike control. The idea behind using proper lines is that a rider can not only go around a track quicker, but also efficiently with less effort extended. Not to "race" or be a "racer", but to get better as a rider. It's a track day and a time to tune and setup for racers that attend. Your mentality should be to raise the ability level to the point that a set time can be run, but now, it is easier to run at that pace. Essentially using less ability... You run a lap time at 80% of your ability when with proper lines being taught and proper technique being used all the while in a group that is less intimidating can result in using say, 50% of your ability at that same speed. If you are showing a rider the wrong line, you are showing him how to work harder - not smarter or easier... it's not a race. If it were, the times would be in the 29s to 31s every lap. That's not going to happen. However, if a guy averages 45s and is trying hard to do so, he needs groomed in the I group until able to maintain about 5 seconds quicker a lap to jump up. Racers at track days work on segments. Set parts of the track that they need attention towards or segments that allow the rider to understand what the bike is doing and what the changes they made do to the bike... They understand that they cannot run "race pace" at a track day. 3/4 a lap will be free, but 1/4 of it is traffic. There's no way to get a fully clean lap unless the very first one... Quit trying to make this a racer vs. a guy "having fun". You aren't a racer (even with the Graves motor) and to sit and essentially state negatively towards racers is somewhat insulting. What needs to be done is focusing on the riders that need that extra boost to get them into a quicker time with an increase in ability. Trust me when I say that if a racer is running out there doing 33s, they aren't anywhere near their ability max. They can run 33s at 70% ability and that reserve is more than enough to accommodate any issues that may arise...

Yes, we all did... The one dry session was when we all came out for the session...

Your job as a coach is to get him smoother and running quicker in Advanced. No offense to Zorro as I have seen him ride and he is very smooth and consistant, but 1:45 in Advanced is somewhat boarderline. In the group that was there Mon/Tues, it really is something you should be looking at to improve... 12 second difference is a big gap for that group... Fun is fine, but the stragglers should be worked with in getting up to pace and if not, move to I group for a better learning environment...

Corey was testing setup - not running hot laps. Hale on Mondy was running OK, but nowhere near what Corey will run. Expect to see Corey in the 29s... Hale isn't going to be at that pace at all... In truth, I was surprised that the group wasn't faster. Expect to see them Saturday. They will need more time on the bikes... West is the fastest of all the guys riding those two days. Trust me...

I have a brand new, in the bag 310 mm front wave rotor for sale. It is a KTM branded rotor made by Braking. You can barely tell it is KTM... Will fit any bolt pattern that uses the 6 hole pattern as used by KTM. So, check to see if it will fit your application. You are responsible to find that info out... The retail is $272... I need a 320 mm rotor so, you get it for $150. Again, brand new and never even out of the bag...

Bump on up before Ebay...

You Harley guys probably don't even know what these are used for, do ya. LOL...

Breaking up the thread like I did with the helmets... Back protectors. Some used, some new... NEW Bohn Back Protectors: -QTY (2) Race Pro Kevlar in Red – LG (5’9” – 6’3”) – $80 EACH -QTY (2) Race Pro Kevlar in Bright Green – LG (5’9” – 6’3”) – $80 EACH -QTY (1) Race Pro Kevlar in Bright Green – SM (up to 5’9”) – $80 EACH Used Back protectors: -Bohn Racer Pro in Red: Condition excellent – SM (up to 5’9”) – $40 -Bohn Racer Pro in Bright Green: Condition good – SM (up to 5’9”) – $30 -Bohn 6 plate Kevlar in Black: Condition great – SM (up to 5’9”) – $40 -No name plastic plated back protector: Condition excellent – $30 -Wintex plastic plated back protector: Condition great – $30 -Yellow Bohn foam/plastic solid back protector: Condition excellent – $30 Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Ok, breaking up the thread I started a while ago. These are new and used helmets. All are listed below as far as details, etc... NEW!!! -AGV Ti Tech Rossi Replica – XL - $200 -Vemar Full Carbon Fiber Limited Edition – Raw – XL - $150 -HJC LT12 solid Red – LG - $50 -HJC LT12 solid Black – LG - $50 Uploaded with ImageShack.us -Scorpion 700 Dahlia White/Pink – SM - $125 -Scorpion 700 Black/Silver - SOLD!!! USED helmets. In great shape!! -Vemar Black/Silver – MD – $75 -Arai Signet Black/Silver – LG – $125 Uploaded with ImageShack.us -HJC CL-12 Fury II Black/Silver – MD – $30 -HJC LT-20 Red – MD - $30 Uploaded with ImageShack.us -AGV Stealth Pink – SM – $75 -AGV V-Flyer American Flag – XL – $30 Uploaded with ImageShack.us I am willing to ship, but you pay the cost. No increases - just what I'd pay to get it to you. IF YOU WANT TO DO PAYPAL - add 3% unless you know a way to send money w/0 a % fee... In most cases, I can meet and save us both. These are also OBO, but the prices are more than fair, I think...

Did you find a Super Duke yet? Still interested?

Ok, to remove my typical hat... You're right. It is my nature and why I am pointing out that it is just me doing what i do online. If you recall the thread you speak of, I didn't call anyone or blow any whistles... Ask Monte at STT. He says that on numerous occasions, he wants to put boxing gloves on me. Not to fight, but to prevent me from typing responses... I have tried over the years to not get involved. It's like the Mid-Ohio 28/29 thread. I just posted a response to a guy stating he was going to be there as a "coach"... I did that because I don't like him and feel he doesn't ride well enough to be teaching people what to do... I antagonize and sometimes, that blows up in my face... I was doing that here. I know the margins and I know he was selling legit product. But, I DO this because in my mind, i want people to realize just what they should expect and understand. If people knew the dealer cost was a set % and didn't change from style to style, maybe they'd question why it was cheaper for this style vs. the next. Why not get the same % off on every style? Looking out - maybe a twisted way to view it in my mind, but I was thinking i was looking out. Then, it is also a two way street. His response egged me to pry even further. I then try and puff my chest out only if i get a harsh response. Telling me to shut the fuck up doesn't help... Look, sorry and I honestly have gotten better through the years. I think I might need to take Flounder and Born's suggestions and step away from the keyboard and only chime in when I need to... I also like to make people prove themselves. It's a bizarre thing I do. But, I will always attest that if you meet me in person, I'm not near as much of a dick as online... Still a dick, but just not as much as on here...

You are getting what I was saying exactly. For example, i do not own a 600 anymore, but I have a 1000... The 1000 is better for my riding style and what I do as a rider... However, I do not own a GSXR600 nor a ZX10. Set me on both and allow me to set them to my likings and let's see which I can make faster laps on... The other thing to weigh is that the 1000 COULD lap faster, but to how much effort involved?

Understood, but not everyone knew him... I didn't. I will accept people pissed at me for questioning him. However, I am pissed , too.

You know me, man. I ask questions that are prying and to bring up shit to make people prove things. I never called anyone, never sent a "notice" to anyone at all. Meanie got it down on himself. This is a site that is supported by dealers. Put two and two together... There are at least 3-4 dealers on here that sell the glasses... I was making sure this guy wasn't buying and then reselling the things. What happens is that he essentially proved he had no idea what margins were and he was getting them from a dealer. That dealer was extending a % discount to him based on what he bought. I go and try to help and get immediately lumped into the pool as the guy that called Oakley and complained. I will say this - I know what dealer cost is as I used to work in a shop and well, being in the industry, I wear them and know. But, I also know if you are military and police, you can get BETTER discounts if you go direct on your own or through your military base, group or police division. Oakley sells direct or via those places to you all that are under that classification. You can also get them even if you are retired. As for non military and police (civilians), you need to make friends with a dealer or Meanie off line. I think if you look at three pages here and numerous pages before, it looks pretty much like he's been selling a lot of glasses to a lot of people and that is going to piss off a guy that has thousands of dollars in inventory and who is following the rules. Oakley is very protective of the way they sell their stuff and how dealers sell their stuff. When I was with Fox, we were the same way... I had dealers calling me over guys selling on Ebay when they weren't even dealers. I never knew as I never checked, but they'd let me know as soon as it was posted. I even had to call a sponsor on here that wasn't an official Fox dealer as he had the logo posted on his website... It was posted when you clicked the link, but I never checked. A dealer did and let me know asap... Relax guys, wasn't me.

....

Uh, you are implying I did it and that's not the case, dude. I have no vested interest and the idea I was pushing was to let the people on here know that the profit margins are the same and thus, your changing discounts wasn't really a deal that made sense. It was protecting the friends on here that were asking like Dude and others. Ask Dude - I don't work in a shop. I haven't worked in a shop since 1999... Also, you essentially pointed out the truth where you were buying from a distributor. In doing so, you were under their decisions to supply you with glasses. So, you pretty much pointed out to me at least that you were just the middle man. I don't care. I just wanted people to ask questions and make sure you were legit. But, realize that there are a shit load of shops that sponsor this site and if they sell the glasses, it could have been them. Watch who you blame, friend. I was looking out for folks. Not blowing a whistle. If I was blowing whistles, I wouldn't have even posted, true?

The problem is that you really need them to ride each others bikes. In other words, running two different guys on their own bikes isn't a good test of how well they are really going to do. To keep it totally fair, you need a person to ride both bikes, allow that person to find an optimal setting to fit their usage and then compare lap times. OR, you could literally let Dub ride his own 600 (which should have his prefered settings and he will be used to) and then allow him to ride the ZX10 and make changes. And vice, versa for Kaw guy. It's not going to be any real proof if they run against each other. Someone may have lesser ability, someone may not feel right vs the other, etc. The use of one guy running both bikes is going to net the end result you all are looking for - not a challenge race like being set up...

Being a "coach" now, aren't you there every time?

Red's wrong about WSS. Honda has dominated at times and even are doing well now, but the rules in WSS are as such that they allow a LOT of modification and the Honda does well under those guides... Look at FX when it was running here - that's more WSS rules. Under typical SS rules which are less "run whatcha bring" kinda rules, the Yamahas do really well.

Especially at Gingerman. It's tight and technical. You'll go faster on the 600 vs. the 10...

I'll be there to help with setup. I will wrench the bikes for Dub so we can figure out the best settings. Or, if someone wants to donate a 2010 GSXR and ZX10, I will try and show what each will do or not do, also. But, I am not paying for a track day to do just that...

Again, I am not thinking that is the case here. The teams have DUMPED A TON OF MONEY at the ZX10. So much in fact... They have done things to that frame to try and compensate and it STILL has issues... At the stock or base level, it is going to show itself as well. Think about the guy running one that has Ohlins 25mm kit and a TTX rear perfectly setup. Adjusted fork height, rear ride height, etc. Has numbers from the FEW guys racing them and goes out and in pushing for a fast lap, can ride around the chatter, but at the time to race 10 laps under sprint conditions, it is too much to handle and he gets beat or wads it or just throws it back into the trailer due to giving up... A stocker is going to have that happen easier due to the chassis is stock and nothing is set up. We can dial it as much as possible and even change the geometry a little. But, in all fairness, we would do that to the GSXR, also... When adding the trail the GSXR needs, it is going to be easier to ride fast. Would he go faster on a 600 than the ZX10 or even the GSXR1000? I am willing to bet he would. People tend to thin that if they rode my 1000, they'd go faster or as fast as I can on it... Truth be told, when I have put it to task, the guys that ride it, come back and usually say "holy shit" and then proceed to tell me they cannot believe I can ride the thing. 1000s are death machines. Not due to power, but because they make you ride the thing all the time. Always pushing and pulling and using so much energy. 600s? Easier to ride fast due to you can be on top of it most the time and really handle the thing vs. it riding you...