Moto-Brian

Glad to help. You put a zip tye on one of the fork tubes? Get with me the next event and let's measure again. As for the SS suits. Great suits for the money. I think as long as you are track riding, whatever you wear is cool by me. Maybe not as good looking as me, but cool... As stated, it's a matter of how you look in pics and less how well you go. I look GOOOOOD...

It was great seeing all the OR folks there at the event in the two days. Sorry I wasn't as able to talk to some as I wished. Doing so many things nowadays gets me super busy. Next time, come by and say "hey"... Oh, and had I not been there, Zorro would have been the best looking dude out there. Sorry, man...

You guys are right. I was just pissed that he puts himself into a scenerio where he cuts between cars and blasts off with no care in the world. That type of shit gets me upset and I wouldn't have been a dick and pushed on him at all... I just wanted to. Reality gets me most often and I do the right thing. Bone head move and thought on my part... My bad, guys.

Well, seeing he had no respect for the other cars in line... Plus, what would have happened if I was on the inside lane? Had I just gone out quickly in MY lane, he would have been fucked. He crossed the center line, accelerated hard and just was king DICK for the moment. If you ride like that and accept that type of riding, cool. I just try and be normal and act like I should. Hooliganism is fine and helps add to the fact he didn't know much... I wouldn't have run him over, but I would have made him work for it since he was an asshat... My piece of shit box can't do a whole lot, but the other car can and I have no issues with making squids show me if they can ride well or not. Most do not.

Yeah, that's pretty high. Plus, he didn't take many pics at spots that were really good points. Like the Thunder Valley pics where people look like they are on the dealer ride at AMA weekend... Why would I want that pic? The angles are weird, too. A few good ones and in spots you usually don't see, but it shows he isn't used to taking pics up there... Bill is AWESOME and I would suggest him or Jig to take your pics next time. Bill... If you read all this, get your ass up to more events and get you some MUUUUUNIE! Carry on...

You are the epitome of street squid. Not only is splitting lanes stupid and illegal, doing it and forcing your way between cars at the light is stupid... But, to add on top of the ignorance, he was riding with no helmet (surprise), no jacket and the icing on the cake - NO EYE PROTECTION!! His small framed girlie friend with her granny underwear showing had on a jacket and helmet at least... Goes blasting down 270 squinting and yet running 80-90... What a fucking idiot. You're just lucky I didn't have the wife's car and was on the inside lane... Rant over.

Just a note on gearing, folks... Race gearing is at a ratio of about 16/44. That's for carrying the mail around that place... Pretty much a good gearing for about everything including 1000s... However, understand something. It isn't a bash on anyone as we all start somewhere, but realize that your corner speed, RPMs, etc come into play. If you are trying to compensate for lack of corner speed, you are going to gear yourself way off base. You need to gain more corner speed before you change gearing. For example, you can do 3rd gear through one for sure. Some guys will do 3rd if they are geared more in that 16/44 or 16/43 range. However, if your corner speed is lower, that ratio will hurt you in 3rd gear. You will be forced to run 2nd because the drive will be slower. See what I am saying? My suggestion is to do a ratio of about 2.8125 or 2.875. You take the rear and divide by the front. Typically, all the faster riders are like I said, a 16/43 or 16/44. For slower riders, a 16/46 is a great place to start. Get yourself to the point where you use that up in key spots and then drop the rear. You should be 2nd from the back straight to under the bridge where you grab a gear up into 3rd as you go up the hill. Down shift into 2nd before you crest 10 into Thunder Valley, up shift to 3rd and 4th through Thunder and down shift either 1 gear (3rd) before 13 (left hander out of Thunder) and another between 13 and the carousel into 2nd OR grab two into 2nd before 13 and carry 2nd into the carousel. Grab an upshift between the carousel and the left hander onto the front straight. Carry the speed up into 4th just past the start/finish and down shift into 3rd. Carry 3rd to turn 2, roll off the throttle and carry 3rd to the entrance of the top of the keyhole and down shift quickly (2nd) before you turn in right at the top. Carry 2nd out of the keyhole and drive hard onto the back straight. You should be just shifting into 6th at the apex of the kink and carry that until you do it all over for another lap.... If you are carrying 3rd on the front straight, that's fine. My 1000 is geared to allow for that. I don't like running 2nd out of 1 because it wheelies and spins too much. 3rd allows for a better drive for me... But try a ratio as I suggested... It will make your life easier. For you 600 riders, you need (especially R6 owners) to be dancing in the red on your bikes for the best pull out of the turns. You have to learn to run high RPMs to get the most out of them...

99% of people that struggle with Mid-O do the carousel and keyhole wrong. They swing out too wide and kill their drive and corner speed. Get with me at some point and I can show you the line that works best and you'll get 2 seconds a lap faster easily just doing that...

I've been on a Busa and about every other bike out there... Do I get a prize if I say that a 600 will eat your lunch on a twisty road or at the track? But, on the other side, I have seen when they tried to get a Busa road race worthy and Yosh and a few others had that thing going pretty good. Embarassed a lot of guys. I have also been passed by a Busa that Rad Greaves was riding and outside getting my eyebrows burned off by the flame from the cannister, it was pretty fucking cool... Dude, you are obviously passionate about your bike, but to say it is the best and "no replacement for displacement", it makes you look silly... And I know you are not...

Dude, you need to get over yourself... It has nothing to do with the bike, but rather the rider. Sure, same rider and same ability on the two bikes and depending on what you do, one will be better than the other... Drag race 1/4 mile? Track? Street? Canyon? Long haul? Damn, bro...

Not to fan the flames, but wanna run a GSXR1000 title for title? I can use a bike to generate money... After all, shoould be easy, right? You have 1300 cc's and I only have 1000. Of course, that whole power to weight ratio is a bitch at times, no? You guys and your "I'm better than you" BS... I can find a guy to ride a Busa and blow Serpent's ass out of the water. I can also find a guy who can take an old R6 and blow Sambusa's ass out of the water... There's exception to every rule on about every level. Get over yourselves. Neither is as good as you think you are and there is ALWAYS someone with a higher level of ability than you. Always. Now, quit the pissing contest and just fuckin' ride for Pete's sake. Jesus...

If you crossed the right connections and there were no codes, it still should show the C00 code which is no codes found. Did you get that code? In other words, you jump the connections to get the codes - it doesn't reset anything...

Ok, since we have everyone telling you what it is and telling you to start ripping the tank off, pulling pumps, pulling throttle bodies, etc... Get with someone who can use a piece of safety wire and cross the points to read the codes. The FI light comes on to designate an issue. The idiots at ASK are just that - idiots... The FI light will pull a code. That code will tell you EXACTLY what the issue is. IF, it is the STVA (Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator), it is covered under the emissions warranty by Suzuki. All you need to do is see what code it is and it will tell you. If in fact it is the STVA, then take it to a reputable dealer (Suzuki) and tell them the STVA is bad and the code number. Once you give them that and they verify, tell them that Suzuki covers the throttle bodies (You cannot buy just the STVA on it's own - you have to buy the whole throttle body assembly so, it is all covered) under the emissions warranty which is FIVE YEARS AND UNLIMITED MILES. If you are outside that, you are not able to get it covered. If you are outside the 5 years, you can still get it fixed and it is REALLY simple to do. Again, don't go pulling off everything and doing what internet prognosis is telling you. Get a read on the code (If nobody near you knows how to pull a code with a piece of wire, take it to Cycle Search and have them do it as he offered and will do it cheap it sounds) first. The code will pop up on the dash where the temp and miles are around. The code is a series of numbers and the letter "C". Write the codes down and ask for someone with a Suzuki Service Manual to tell you what it means. You'll have an answer in literally 5 minutes. And, without tearing shit apart... The STVA will at times make it tough to start when cooler out. But, not really an issue. Sounds like fuel obviously, but w/o knowing what code is being thrown, you are simply guessing and either you'll throw a bunch of money at it or waste your time. Pull the codes...

Might be there... I'm kind of over the whole watching the racing and stuff... Probably do some mountain biking and take a break. We'll be doing the STT for a solid week surrounding that race so, watching after being there all week is something that doesn't have much interest for me. Might come up at around 1-2pm each day just to watch the races, though...

I am 6'1" and have at least 6-7 suits, 3-4 pairs of size 10/11 boots, too many gloves to count... You can borrow whatever you need if you sign up for a Novice Day at Mid-Ohio or Bluegrass... Novice classroom isn't like at school. It certainly isn't like Keith Code's school, either. It's basic and fundamental and you can get with guys that run the pace you are comfortable with. No pressure whatsoever... You supply the helmet and bike and we can get you taken care of unless you don't fit into something I have then we have suits you can rent for something like $75 a day...

Try Cleveland Akron Honda or Roush in Medina. If you go to Roush, ask for Jerry and tell him I sent ya. Pony for sure has them, but if you want to save 4 hours of driving and support locally, those two shops should have something...

Got a buddy who bought his US AMA Ducati. Not sure if he still has it... I'll try and find pics...

It wasn't SBS pads but, it was what Jensen runs. Even still...

Vesrahs are by far the best you can get. Oh, and Inyazz, it could be the pad causing fade...

You sound a bit arrogant if you ask me, but what do I know? I usually find that a lot of people that say how fast they are or make excuses for why they crashed actually are covering for a lack of something... Then again, I have no idea who you are. so...

Galfers will be fine. And there was a batch issue so, it should be handled now. No need to know what pads they were as they have checked it and hopefully will not happen again.

Plus, launching a bike like that vs. launching a car are so different and require so much more skill... Think same reaction times, but only two wheels and wanting to lift all the time. Contact patcj is the size of a credit card and it squirms everywhere... Not a drag racing fan, but outside top fuel cars and how they ever get that much power, bikes are cool...

The bottom line is that the following is reality: -Dealer network is thin at best. Plus, most shops are not trained like OEM Japanese techs are. -Prices are fairly close in terms of the 650 vs the comparable SV it competes against. -Parts. Good luck, folks. Doubt a dealer has as an efficient and quick dealer parts network as seen in the Big 4 shops. -Overall Market Share. Meaning, the more units they sell, the more they invest in R&D, etc. to make the bike better through it's lifespan. Their market share is so damn small that it lends one to think that they don't bring in a lot of money for such things. They've increased their number of units in terms of bike styles and such, but they really haven't advanced the existing lineup. Great beginner bike, but understand that you can buy a used SV for cheaper. You can buy a used Ninja 250 for cheaper, etc.

It looks like it wouls hold fine. I don't like the angle where as stated before, it looks as if it could roll forward and drop off easily. Espeically that high off the ground. Second, the whole thing is a two person job or a bitch for one guy. Having to put the bolts into the swingarm spool holes is too much work. I'd pay $50 more just to combat having to do that... As for the strength, think Trulles (sp?) frame on a Ducati vs. a typical aluminum frame on say, a GSXR...