Moto-Brian

What's with the Jesus freak thing going on? Has he always been a religious guy?

Who wants to be faster than Andy party!! I'm buyin'! We love ya, Andrew.

Dude, that could have been a complete and utter disaster! People NEED TO LISTEN AND PAY ATTENTION IN RIDER'S MEETING!!! You ever so slightly roll off and put your hand up. Chopping off the throttle and essentially school zone speed is liable to kill someone... Wow.

That is now added as part of my sig! AWESOMENESS!!!

I'm at all of them, tool box. I sorta work for them, remember? Loser... I take it all back. No help for you. Madcat only!

Again, check the thermostat by running it until around 180-185 and watch the temp. If it EVER lowers vs climbing, it is working and you are good. If it shows C00, you have no codes, but wait for the FI light to come on. If it was the sidestand, it would show a code...

I can help with that...

PS, quit letting the bike go over 200 while sitting. You are killing the bike letting it get that hot while sitting. You may want to make sure the bike climbs to something like 185 and then drops 1-2 degrees to make sure the thermostat is opening and working. However, it will still climb high if letting sit...

235 IS hot... There can be a few issues. Second Throttle Valve could be shot, but would throw an FI light. There is a white connector under the tail that has 6 slots in it. It has a black, rubbery dust cover. This is where you take a piece of safety wire or actually any wire at all. If you hold the connector with the release tab at the bottom and you are looking straight down on it, the two slots to the far left as you hold it will need to be connected with the jumper wire you are using. Turn the ignition on and you will see at the bottom of the dash "C" and a 2 digit number. If it shows "C00", you have no codes being thrown and it is something else. If it throws a code like C21 for example, there is a reference list I can check and let you know or simply get on Google and see... In my mind it is a side stand switch or similar as discussed. If it is the STV and is out, the bike will flash an FI light...

The 22 my buddy has is VERY tempermental towards what ammo he uses. He typically has to use better ammo or it jams often. Not sure as most guys probably have better education on this, but my real world experience is that a buddy had the same issue with his 22 and it seemed to be ammo related...

I have some sets of Dunlops for sale... DOTs are 120/70 fronts and 190/55 rears NEW Dunlop GPA 211s. The front is the hard compound and the rear is a Medium. This is the best choice as the front GPAs are easy to burn up and the hard offers the best longevity. Asking $295 Used Dunlop GPA 211s. The front is a hard compound and you get (2) Medium compound rears. The one is kinda torn up. Not terrible and could easily be used again. I just was using it to find the settings and had some tearing initially. The second one is in great shape and ready to use... Asking $120 Dunlop NTec Slicks - Front is a 120/70 and the rear is a 195/65s. I have multiple sets of these and different compounds. Fronts are awesome and the rears are 20 laps maybe at the most and up to 40 laps on some. All were this year purchases. Retail on these bad boys at the track is something like $550. I am asking $150 a set. You pick the set you want... First come, first served. I will get some pics tonight if I can.

Will check it out. Thanks, Floundy! Sorry not to get to your call. I have been slammed to the point that unless it is work phone calls, I am a ghost. I am pretty much done cleaning and waiting to get things finalized and FINGERS CROSSED, we will close Friday.

My secret is blown!! Honestly, it is so damn hard to ride the 1000 fast that I have offered guys to try it and see. It rides YOU more than you ride it... It literally wants to kill you as often as it can get a chance. It's like wrestling a bear at times. I jump on people's 600s and wonder why the hell I ever went to liter bikes. Then I wheelie out of turn 1, keyhole, at the kink, entry to Thunder and out onto the front straight at Mid-Ohio and get reminded. But, it tries and kills me in the same spots!! Wouldn't change a thing. Rode 600s for 10 years and went to the 750 and 1000 after and with my fat ass, they work great.

They only think that they cannot keep up. What it really means is that the guy on the 600 has less ability and wants to compensate with a liter bike. The fact is that a liter bike is MUCH harder to ride faster than a 600. In fact, you can see it first hand at any local club race. 600s in reality are better per CC than the liter bikes. But, guys think that more power is better than anything and that the more powerful a bike, the better it will be. Now, at 220 lbs, I would say that a 600 is going to be a tough steed to ride and feel good on. My suggestion if you do look for another bike, look at a 750, but a sport tourer might be a good machine for you also... The problem is that if a guy uses his head, a 1000 can be a great street bike for the fact that it has more torque and can be used at lower RPMs when needed which is a lot of the time on the street. Not to mention two up, etc... There are benefits and reasons to ride liter bikes on the street. But, most the time when having these discussions, I always find out it is because they think their 600s are fast enough...

Thanks, man. I got a Tyvex suit and the needed respirator, etc. I also have a misting bottle to wet it enough to avoid dust. Hopefully can trap these things and rid them from the place...

I have traps and will catch the raccoons. I was referring to what to use to clean up and what to use to kill the smell...

OK, got a SHIT load (no pun intended) of raccoon poop to clean up in an attic. There's not just a little like on the porch of your neighbor's house where his dog shits... Anyways, gotta clean it up. No insulation either to just suck up - it's bare and is on the drywall and on the rafter wood... I have a Tyvex suit, respirator and gloves and glasses. Any thoughts as to what cleaning compound to use? 1/4 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water or something else? What solution to be used after clean up and will rid of the smell? Figured someone on here has got to know or have been in this situation...

Chrome- RD is a sponsor and thus, they are doing what they came here for - to do reviews, support OR and try and sell stuff. They are an awesome company and do great things for us as well as our sport. In reflection, I understand 100% why they pulled my thread. I have been thinking of ways to sponsor the site via a dealership, but quite honestly, I have been so damn busy with work, family and a possible new house that I have forgotten. Don't be upset - they are not doing anything remotely the same. RD? Keep up the awesome reviews and product deals! You guys rock! Now, let me know when you need someone to "test" any of your project bikes!!

It's funny people's perceptions of what a Sumo is... The reality is where you intend to use it. People saying XRs and KLRs are people that are not using them as Supermotos the way they were intended. Street use is fine and you'll want a larger cockpit and heavier bike with a bigger motor. If you want a legit Supermoto, there are no XRs and KLRs or DRZs in or around any supermoto track that are succeeding at running laps well. You need a proper SM for that or convert a 450 or larger 4 stroke bike to a Sumo machine. Again, depends on what you want to do with it. A 450 or similar is gonna be a bear on the street. Super fun for in town and urban assualts, but will get old the first road trip you run...

The throttle is smoother as a result of complaints that they were too sensitive. I have a bit of seat time on the bike and it doesn't seem too much of an issue. However, that said, I have a shorter throw on my RS...

I don't think so... Not sure. Only guy that I can really think of was a guy in Advanced with a Lithium Motorsports and a bunch of race patches that crashed at the top of the keyhole... The other two guys were not recognized by myself, but doesn't mean they were not OR guys...

Reuben from 35 Motorsports did this to one of his trailers and when we were loading a race bike in GA during some rain, it was probably one of the most dangerous things we ever tried... When the wet tires and your wet shoes hit it, they become somewhat sketchy...

Glad to see a few OR guys coming out to ride our bikes. We had another great event and due to being mid-week, the I and A groups were very small which turns out to be a great thing for those who came - TONS of open track! We did have another 3 bikes go down. People need to take things easier and stay within their means. Two were rider errors that were a result of over their heads and the third was something we still don't know what happened and I think the guy that crashed has no real idea. He was a little loopy like he might have bumped his head... Overall, awesome event again and hopefully was great for those that came out. See ya all on the 31st!

Frame sliders are something you probably need to remove for the fact that they are more harm than good. Bike slides on pavement, but when getting into the grass/dirt, they tend to hook and tumble. Look in any race paddock and you will see... Second, it is fine to have a canopy. Actually, not something I would say run out and buy, but realize that a cool and shaded rider is more likely to be a better conditioned and ready to go rider than one sitting on a tail gate in the blasting sun draining their energy. Get with some folks and share a ride and share a canopy. They are worth their weight in gold in my opinion... Grab a cooler and fill it with stuff that makes sense. WATER, Gatorade or similar and avoid energy drinks as they dehydrate you and are sugar filled which hurts you in the long run. Get some cold sandwiches and some stuff like granola bars, etc. You can probably borrow some pucks. If I am there, I probably have half a dozen sets sitting around you can borrow. TRUST me, you don't want to get your knee down and not have a puck... Not a big deal if you don't in the first event you run, but let's say you learn things well enough and touch the ground with your knee... You will want pucks... Overall, the baseline of things are important and covered endlessly around the web. Basics are fine, but remember that creature comforts may be on the list of many as "Not required", but understand that if they make you more comfortable and can actually make you be better and fresher on the track, get them. Afterall, you need to be as sharp as you can be and if you are drained and fatigued, guess when the problems arise?

Planning on it. We will see if I can get into a track day before then for setup time. After Reuben's ordeal, I am suspecting that I will not be able to get in...