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Clutch Question for the Mechanics


bandit12

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Took the clutch out of my '97 1200 Bandit and have this question. It is different than any I have taken apart before but not a whole lot, it has cupped spring discs instead of coil springs and a couple of the fiber discs and steel friction plates are thicker by design.

These discs that are thicker are to be in a certain spot in the stack and that is where my question comes in.

The whole stack is between the back plate of the clutch hub and the spring activated front hub so what difference does it make where the thicker plates are in the stack? It doesn't change the total thickness of the stack so I guess I don't understand why and where there are two thicker discs in the stack.

Can someone in the know shed a little light on the subject?

Thanks in advance for any help.

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The OEM parts fiche is showing them in the middle of the stack and upon looking at the parts break down again I think I might be missing part #14 clutch spring seat.

Now, I got to go to the garage again.

Edit, Not Missing, it is there

Edited by bandit12
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There was a factory update on the old Honda cb750 clutches that added a steel plate somewhere in the middle of the stack, the reason was to kill rattle at idle in neutral caused by some weird harmonic. Thickerdisk changed the frequency of the clutch pack, no more rattle.

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I can buy that I guess, some bike make a lot of noise in neutral or with the clutch pulled in for that matter.

I have a Clymer manual that shows those discs in the inner end of the stack, the OEM parts breakdown shows them in the middle and one of the Suzuki forums say they go on the outer end of the stack, weird to say the least.

Have you guys ever seen the steel plates wear faster/more than the fiber plates. My fibers are near the bottom of the spec measurements and the steels are below the spec measurements?

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Yeah, fibers always wear out faster has been my past experience and I'm thinking that the PO was in here messing around is why the thicker plates weren't at either spot by the book or parts breakdown. I have never had this much crap over a clutch in my life and I used to do KTM and Polini clutches on little race bikes.

This is actually the first hydraulic clutch I have worked on in over 30 years.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Well sum bench, I cleaned up everything and installed the new clutch and now I have NO clutch.

Back to the drawing board.

Is it hydraulic or a cable? I had a friend tell me that the TLs have issues with the factory cable breaking due to age. The bandit may be the same. If its hydraulic check for air in the line. Easiest solutions first.

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Thanks guys, It's hydraulic. I took it all apart again today and went thru the whole works including the push rods and clutch slave/sprocket cover. Everything on that side was OK so I laid out the clutch plates, hubs and all the other related parts on that side and everything looked right.

I grabbed the book and started reading it thru again and it finally hit me, I swear the book tells you to put the concaved clutch springs in backward so there was never any pressure on the plates, but in Clymer's defence I have never seen a clutch assembly like this in my 25+ years of tinkering with bikes.

What is was doing is when I put it in gear and it just sit there and not even try to move, I had a full pressure on the lever and maybe too much because the hub couldn't expand any more. With the lever out the clutch springs were pushing the plates apart instead of together.

I put five or six miles on it and it seemed to be working.

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