Kent2406 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Any electronic gurus out there want to try their hand at making something similar to this? http://revenanteagle.org/checksix/gyrocam/This would be pretty sweet to have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Hmmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner75 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 I looked into this with a gopro set up last year, the rig I found wouldve ended up costing close to 200 not counting the camera. I think Ill look into this. It looks like itll be a bit cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Cool build, but the wooden case is a bit lackluster.....definitely needs to be aluminum housed ( eventually ), but this was obviously a cheaper way to mock up the prototypes. I like it and it's still compact. The only change I'd suggest would be to wire in a DC jack to allow things to run off of the bike's power instead of needing 2 batteries for the cam and gyro servo. I don't have the mental capacity, nor the patience to take on a build like this but there is definitely a market for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearcat91 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 made for some sweet footage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pokey Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 I thought that said DIY gynocam at first!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent2406 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Cool build, but the wooden case is a bit lackluster.....definitely needs to be aluminum housed ( eventually ), but this was obviously a cheaper way to mock up the prototypes. I like it and it's still compact. The only change I'd suggest would be to wire in a DC jack to allow things to run off of the bike's power instead of needing 2 batteries for the cam and gyro servo. I don't have the mental capacity, nor the patience to take on a build like this but there is definitely a market for itIf you go into the links at the bottom, he's updated the case to a 3D printout, and if I remember correctly, he offers the files to download, so you can print it out yourself. That is, if you have access to a 3D printer. We're suppose to be getting one at work in the next couple of months.I definitely wouldn't want to use the camera he has. It's like $400. I know I could design a different case and setup for a different camera, but I suck at electronics. I don't understand all that mumbo jumbo crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosci Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 old thread warmed up ;-)https://www.facebook.com/MotorradGyrocam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lqk80szSPVI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earache Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) old thread warmed up ;-)https://www.facebook.com/MotorradGyrocam Mosci -Are you selling these? How much with shipping to the US?You can email me at EaracheMS at Gmail.com if you'd like. Edited May 6, 2014 by Earache Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banditj13 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 The only change I'd suggest would be to wire in a DC jack to allow things to run off of the bike's power instead of needing 2 batteries for the cam and gyro servo. The only issue I could see in wiring this to the bikes 12v system is the gyro startup time. the types of gyros used in a project like this typically need a few seconds of no movement to establish their level, and start stabilization. by wiring to the bike's power system, you would have to be aware to not start the bike as soon as you turn the key. Awesome project, and great documentation, but for those that aren't so electronics savy, or don't want to spend the extra time tweaking source code, the RC community has many different gimbal controllers that allow for image stabilization. the lower end 2 axis stabilizing controllers could potentially eliminate the need to solder/build circuits and program/tweak source code... and can typically be found for around $30-$50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earache Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I'd like to get the electronic guts and build my own enclosure out of aluminum or carbon fiber.Have any links to a suitable stabilizing controller that would work? One capable of handling the extra weight of an aluminum enclosure would be best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banditj13 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I can't say I have built one of these, but you could start with this:http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__41386__2_Axis_Brushless_Camera_Gimbal_Stabilization_Control_Board_w_IMU.html I don't know how something like that will handle the vibration introduced from the motor/drivetrain/road, but the concept is there, and it would have some level of vibration tolerance built into the software. The weight isn't a major concern to the controller, nearly as much as it is to the servo you use to drive the camera/gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 That's pretty cool. Sent from my iPhone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earache Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) The weight isn't a major concern to the controller, nearly as much as it is to the servo you use to drive the camera/gear. That's more of what I was referring to; a higher weight capacity motor. If that could be had for cheap along with this controller, then making the housing is a piece of cake. Probably need to come up with a weight for the enclosure and then find the motor. Edited May 6, 2014 by Earache Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banditj13 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 depending on how you enclose the system, you could do similar to the original link, and leave the camera external to the enclosure... doing that would mean the only weight you have to consider is the rotational weight of the camera....The enclosure in the original link really only serves to enclose and/or protect the electronics of the system, including the lipo batteries. the servo used in the original link, the HS-425BB, can be had for $13 http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-425bb_super_sport_bb.html#.U2j8K_ldWCkUsing a gear drive system to rotate the camera, as used in the original, would reduce the felt weight on the servo motor, and thus, the $13 servo works fine. Remember, rotational weight is typically lighter than lifted weight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosci Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 yes yes and yesyes, the brushless-gimbal can be used ... I started with that toobut for me it was zu big and unhandy ... so I decided to build it smaller and with a stronger motor to make it possible to use a gopro with the housing. yes, it can be powered from the motorcycle battery or from a 3S LiPo-Accu yes, the gyro should be calibrated on startup - but must not be - you can disable this within the software-gui but I recomend to calibrate at least thegyro on startup - so this is the default setting. I heared it often that people like to build a metall-housing - but what for?the laser-sintered nylon is very strong and lightweight - I just don't see the need to spend more money for no benefit. In a few weeks I will put a partlist and maybe also a small howto to the public on my facebook-site - but fist I have to find better settingsfor racetracks - for now I have only found good settings for usual roads at normal speed ... roadracing and racetrack settings have to be found ...and last but not least I will sell a couple of these units to get a part of my input back. pure material costs (including the plastic) is arround 200$ (without accu and charger)there is no soldering needed but 2 cable-connectres have to crimped on ... but it's not such a big deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosci Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 this video shows 3 testrides ... with different gyro-integration settings (and minor other changes)the lower video (gyro=200) shows the best setting for 'standard speed' (between 50 and 150 km/h) I have found so farI would like to have equal good results on the racetrack to get satisfied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earache Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I heared it often that people like to build a metall-housing - but what for?the laser-sintered nylon is very strong and lightweight - I just don't see the need to spend more money for no benefit. Because I have a metal shop with lathes, milling machines, etc and I like metal, dammit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosci Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 then m Because I have a metal shop with lathes, milling machines, etc and I like metal, dammit! then ... maybe ... you can simply use the cad-files in your cnc-device Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banditj13 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 mosci - if you are running this off of the motorcycle battery, do you need to use any sort of power filter or voltage regualtor?Also - have you thought about the safety factor when it comes to using LIPO batteries? I think I would prefer a bit more of a crash resistant case such as the metal case that Earache is thinking about... LIPO batteries are volatile little suckers, and I would rather have a safety factor built in... not sure I would want this to happen on the bike: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mosci Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 omg ... a pencil can be deadly too I'm aware of this - but this is mostly happened when people act stupid ... and recharge overdiscarged lipos ... or because people used demaged lipos(or they just want to make a action-loaded video ) some of the older boxes from derek (the servo driven gyrocam like in this original posts but for gopro => http://revenanteagle.org/checksix/gopro-gyrocam/)get's broke on some racetrack-crashes ... but none of them is exploded or they simply fellt off like here most real racebikes don't even have a battery - or also a LiFePo Battery only for starting the engine - you can use this also to power the gyrocam ... but it's not safer at allwhat power-source is used is up to everyone himself - i prefer lipo-batteries ... they are small, cheap, fast charged, and deviler enough power over a long range of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banditj13 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Sheesh...pencils are dangerous...I just got a splinter from one ;-)Truly most lipo fires are from negligent users, but I can speak from personal experience that when it comes to lipo batteries, safety is never to be underestimated... I burnt up a brushless stadium truck due to a wall impact. The lipo was perfectly fine prior to impact.I suppose as long as the enclosure is rugged enough, the material is fairly irrelevant... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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