BMMW Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 The GS500 forum indicates this bike is lean from the factory. I've got carb experience and did rejet it. It's been hit or miss, before and after, and is still being troublesome. Is there anyone near Cleveland that can help me finish tuning this bike? Thanks in Advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Did you just swap out jets? Did you use a kit? Did it come with needles and springs? Did you adjust the idle air screws? Did you clean the carb really good while you were in there? What are the symptoms it has right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I am in Medina and willing to help. Pm your contact info.Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMMW Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) I did clean the carbs. There was a bit of dirt in em'. Pilot circuit is clean. Jets were replaced with the next larger sizes. I checked for air leaks. I checked the float level, externally. I will be checking the tank filter and fuel cap next. May be some dirt in there or a vent blockage. Edited April 14, 2014 by BMMW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit12 Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Looks like you got it covered with help already but CrazySkullCrusher can handle the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I am not sure I could help, but I would be an extra set of hands and try to learn something while we mess with your bike instead of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackFlash Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I have the HAYNES SERVICE AND REPAIR MANUAL for this bike. I'm willing to type verbatim straight from the manual to help you out. It's written in the UK. Pardon the spellings. The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the main fuel cock and filter,the fuel tap, the carburettors, fuel hoses and control cables. The main fuel cock mounted on the underside of the fuel tank incorporatesa filter which sits inside the tank. The remote fuel tap is of the vacuum type. Let me know if you need info. I'll be in and out all day and available tomorrow. PM me for Phone number if you want details researched. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMMW Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I have the HAYNES SERVICE AND REPAIR MANUAL for this bike. I'm willing to type verbatim straight from the manual to help you out. It's written in the UK. Pardon the spellings. The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the main fuel cock and filter,the fuel tap, the carburettors, fuel hoses and control cables. The main fuel cock mounted on the underside of the fuel tank incorporatesa filter which sits inside the tank. The remote fuel tap is of the vacuum type. Let me know if you need info. I'll be in and out all day and available tomorrow. PM me for Phone number if you want details researched. .Thank You for the info. I do have access to the manuals and internet pdf info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 What exactly is it doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMMW Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 The bike was originally idling ok and then it would idle high and gradually wind down and stall. I read up some info on the GS500 forum where they were stating it was lean from the factory, and suggested jetting changes. I made those changes and it ran ok for a bit last summer. Its now barely starting. I'm guessing I may have to go through the carbs and clean up again. My cousins bike and it sat in the cold through the winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I'd start with a carb clean. After that it should at least start. From there you can read the plugs and tune it, or I can. Good luck to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekClouser Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Whaler is really good also with carbs as well. He's in medina so I'd recommend bringing it down to his garage and letting him help you. Just PM him your information (he posted earlier in this thread). I'll also be glad to stop over and bring some beer or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I'd start with a carb clean. After that it should at least start. From there you can read the plugs and tune it, or I can. Good luck to you. Can you elaborate a bit on "reading the plugs?" I have done this a little on my XR, but with 2-4 plugs, the process seems a bit more complicated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Same simple process just repeated. This is what I've found works:Get some masking tape and wrap both the twist grip and somewhere next to it on the bar or bar end. On the bar you draw an arrow, on the grip you're going to write 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 next to that arrow corresponding with how far open the throttle is. Now it's time to go for a ride. Start with wide open as you want to make sure the main jet is right first. Bang through a few gears wide open and then pull the clutch and kill the motor, shift to neutral and come to a stop. Pull the plugs and read them. Too white = too lean. Too black = too rich. You're looking for the color of a lightly toasted marshmallow. Change main jet to adjust. Repeat for 3/4 and 1/2 throttle and adjust needle clip accordingly. 1/4 throttle is for pilot jet. Yes it's time consuming but in the end you'll have a damn well tuned motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Same simple process just repeated. This is what I've found works:Get some masking tape and wrap both the twist grip and somewhere next to it on the bar or bar end. On the bar you draw an arrow, on the grip you're going to write 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 next to that arrow corresponding with how far open the throttle is. Now it's time to go for a ride. Start with wide open as you want to make sure the main jet is right first. Bang through a few gears wide open and then pull the clutch and kill the motor, shift to neutral and come to a stop. Pull the plugs and read them. Too white = too lean. Too black = too rich. You're looking for the color of a lightly toasted marshmallow. Change main jet to adjust. Repeat for 3/4 and 1/2 throttle and adjust needle clip accordingly. 1/4 throttle is for pilot jet. Yes it's time consuming but in the end you'll have a damn well tuned motor. Thank you. This is very helpful. I am probably getting ahead of myself in thinking about proper tuning before the bike is even ready for a test ride, but I will refer to this in a few weeks when I get it on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Or bring it to me and I'll do it for a reasonable fee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpoppa Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Every time to I see a cool carbed bike for sale...it takes a while to remind myself how much I like FI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Every time to I see a cool carbed bike for sale...it takes a while to remind myself how much I like FI FI is amazing, but I am trying to learn to be less afraid of old technology. "Vintage" bikes are cool in their own way, and can make 50mph pretty exciting. My next "expensive" bike will be some kind of supermoto/endure. My next cheap bike will probably have drum brakes and points style ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpoppa Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) There are tons of cool old bikes, I just need to remind myself not to buy them. I am only afraid of the old tech when I'm riding hundreds of miles from home in Buttplug, WV. Usually the louder the banjos, the better the riding. Edited April 15, 2014 by Tpoppa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Lol...old tech is so easy to fix tho....no fuel pump, no computer, valve state voltage regulator....points are easy, you dress them with emery cloth and set the gap every couple thousand miles or so and they work fine. Carbs are good once tuned and if you don't leave gas in them over the winter you won't have to mess with them in the spring. Who doesn't love screw and nut tappets? I'd much rather work on old shit than new, less wires, less potential problems, cheaper to fix etc... of course new stuff you usually don't have to work on as much.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.