Chain saws

[Gump]

I'm looking for real life use opinions. Don't base your opinion on high costs must equal quality products and since I paid twice as much for my saw and use it 3 hours a year its better. A.K.A.  Some Stihl folks. Consider the fuel/mix was always done properly and not a topic. Chains irrelevant.

I have a Husqvarna 136 that is 13 years old, purchased new as a remanufactured, and probably saw roughly 35 hours a year usage. It's worn out now, low compression. Replaced parts were pull rope, filter, fuel hose, fuel filter, bar, carb rebuilt once. Spark plug "replace it replace it" topic is bunk, it's fine.
Considering it has roughly 500 hrs, I think it's a reliable saw although I have nothing to compare it's time use against. A cylinder rebuild kit is $35 but this thing has been used and abused and I want bigger.

I'm seeing differences in crank assemblies and looking at an Echo and have been borrowing one and like it but might just go with a Husqvarna again but in 50cc range as I want it bigger to handle a 20" bar.

Edited November 3, 2015 by Gump

[motocat12]

Guy helping on our trail building has an orange 20" one... I realize that's half of them. I'll check it out next time I see him if you're not in a hurry.

[Bubba]

Husky's are built pretty well.  I'm using a Stihl right now, but my last saw was a vintage Craftsman from the mid-70s, when they were actually NOT POS saws.  Think they may have been made by Jonsered at the time, and I used that for about 25-30 years with only a couple of carb rebuilds.  Went thru 2 bars and plenty of chains and wish it still ran.  Not heard a lot good about the light-duty Echos, but maybe the big ones are better.  20" bar seems big for trail building work....lots of weight to carry in and out.  Unless you're using a quad to access your work area, might want to rethink the big saw decision.  If you do get a full-size saw, get one with the 3/8" chainbar and DON'T buy the "safe" anti-kickback chains; a chipper chain will cut a lot faster (I like Oregon).

[redbarron77]

I have a Husqvarna and a Stihl.  I've also owned a Craftsman.  All 3 are/were good chainsaws.  

 

The Craftsman had the sear's warranty, and I had that bad boy completely rebuilt every year.  Ran it at least 300+ hours/year, burned through just about every part on it. 

 

The Husqvarna is the most particular about fuel.  If the mix is slightly off, damn thing won't start, and I have to go through the process of purging it.  When it runs, it is really nice, and haven't had to replace a damn thing on it.

 

The Stihl is the Shizzle!  I have run that bitch through multiple bars, tons of chains, and even the crappiest fuel(the shit that kills the Husqvarna). 

 

It all boils down to what you want to spend -vs- how you are going to use it.

[zx3vfr]

Stihl for real.

Husquavarna sells at lowes now. Yuck!

Germans have to much pride to sell next to China made garbage Christmas decorations

[alansz400]

I bought a Stihl MS270 10 years ago when I started heating my house 90% with wood and ran the balls off that saw. Chains, bars and one spark plug in the last 10 years. It still runs GREAT but last fall I found a good deal on a Stihl ms362, its a pro saw and wow what a beast. My son and I cut on the same log and I cut almost twice as fast with the new saw. Its not as powerful as the 441 or the 661 but its lighter and runs a 20 inch bar with no problems. I test ran a 441 one time at a stihl dealer outside of Danville and was not that impressed for as much hp. as it has and as much as it costs it wasn't that great. Right after I bought my 362 I was at Charm engine and they had a new 661 on sale but even on sale I couldn't pay that much for a saw to cut wood to try and save money. I live in Loudonville if you want to give my 362 a try you are more then welcome to. 

[Gump]

I have a Husqvarna and a Stihl. I've also owned a Craftsman. All 3 are/were good chainsaws.

The Craftsman had the sear's warranty, and I had that bad boy completely rebuilt every year. Ran it at least 300+ hours/year, burned through just about every part on it.

The Husqvarna is the most particular about fuel. If the mix is slightly off, damn thing won't start, and I have to go through the process of purging it. When it runs, it is really nice, and haven't had to replace a damn thing on it.

The Stihl is the Shizzle! I have run that bitch through multiple bars, tons of chains, and even the crappiest fuel(the shit that kills the Husqvarna).

It all boils down to what you want to spend -vs- how you are going to use it.

I'd guess your husky had some sort of issue not common. Unless there's a major compression difference I can't see why the same fuel would make a difference between the two motors.

[Gump]

I live in Loudonville if you want to give my 362 a try you are more then welcome to.

I really appreciate the offer. You're a bit far from me though.

[Gump]

Husky's are built pretty well. I'm using a Stihl right now, but my last saw was a vintage Craftsman from the mid-70s, when they were actually NOT POS saws. Think they may have been made by Jonsered at the time, and I used that for about 25-30 years with only a couple of carb rebuilds. Went thru 2 bars and plenty of chains and wish it still ran. Not heard a lot good about the light-duty Echos, but maybe the big ones are better. 20" bar seems big for trail building work....lots of weight to carry in and out. Unless you're using a quad to access your work area, might want to rethink the big saw decision. If you do get a full-size saw, get one with the 3/8" chainbar and DON'T buy the "safe" anti-kickback chains; a chipper chain will cut a lot faster (I like Oregon).

I went with a Husqvarna 450 50.2cc. 455 56cc Rancher adds two pounds. Both with 20" bar but the 450's smaller motor keeps the weight down to around 11-12 pounds. My Husky 136 was 14" then 16", not really adequate for cutting the base of trees. I kept going back to the likes of the Echo CS-450 which I've used the last 3 weekends. I like it's rigid frame vs. the Husky 136 was flimsy meaning it flexed a lot between the right hand trigger handle and the left hand handle. I'm not sure why, it never broke and maybe it was designed that way with the anti-vibration design. The Echo CS-450's weight would be about the same as the Husky 450. You must be right about the 3/8" Oregon chain, this Echo has one and cuts a lots quicker vs. my old Husky (considering sharpened chains) although the Echo chain speed doesn't seem that fast. The weight seemed fine for 7 hour days on the Echo. I'm no lumber jack but I'm often having to cut a large amount of large trees and I can't see paying the big money for a Stihl when my last husky lasted 13 years, running what ever 2 cycle oil I had around, and with a 500ish hours and abuse. Refurbished Husqvarna 450 for $266, little cheaper than the Echo and if it lasts 13 years again, I'll be happy. Edited November 4, 2015 by Gump

[Gump]

Stihl for real.

Husquavarna sells at lowes now. Yuck!

Germans have to much pride to sell next to China made garbage Christmas decorations

I think Stihl only sells to brick and mortar stores. I wonder what their profit levels are like. Wouldn't it be something if they cost the same to build as a Husky or Homelite.

[zx3vfr]

I think Stihl only sells to brick and mortar stores. I wonder what their profit levels are like. Wouldn't it be something if they cost the same to build as a Husky or Homelite.

Stihl has one line made in China, the 1/4 acre developed lot model. Everything else is made in USA or Germany. Midline stuff is all USA from what I understand. Every Stihl dealer I've been to has everything priced the same. I bought a string trimmer for a non profit I volunteer for and they gave me 20% off. I'm guessing standard retail mark up of 40-60%. So for the higher end home owner lines that would put them in the same cost to manufacture as almost everyone else

[alansz400]

My Stihl dealer always has extra chains, bars, spark plugs, and air cleaners in stock. I have a couple older Stihls that I bought used and if they didn't have the part they could get them in a few days even for older saws and the price of the parts is never as bad as I think its going to be. That's worth a lot to me.

 When I bought my 270 new I paid full MSRP. I hated doing that but I needed a saw bad. I few weeks later I found another dealer that had my saw marked down $20 and said he would have helped me on the price of the extra chains that I bought at the same time I bought the saw. I have never stepped foot back in the door of the first dealer but the other dealer has got a lot of my $ since. Both stores are owned by Amish. 

[Gump]

My Stihl dealer always has extra chains, bars, spark plugs, and air cleaners in stock. I have a couple older Stihls that I bought used and if they didn't have the part they could get them in a few days even for older saws and the price of the parts is never as bad as I think its going to be. That's worth a lot to me.

When I bought my 270 new I paid full MSRP. I hated doing that but I needed a saw bad. I few weeks later I found another dealer that had my saw marked down $20 and said he would have helped me on the price of the extra chains that I bought at the same time I bought the saw. I have never stepped foot back in the door of the first dealer but the other dealer has got a lot of my $ since. Both stores are owned by Amish.

Stihls a serious saw no doubt. If I was in the cutting business I'm guessing that's what I'd have. I don't really find many factual claims to there dependability vs. certain saws that costs a 1/3 less. I'm guessing because they lack hour meters. I'd assume the type of piston sleeve or cylinder material, crankshaft and motor housing materials are important to longevity and ease/affordability of rebuilding. I have a fairly expensive shotgun, it's no more reliable than a $300 gun. Most people who pay big bucks for something will heavely base their opinion on cost, because otherwise they're foolish for paying so much.

Most of chainsaw reviews are a joke online. It's upsetting. They point out where the on/off switch is, it has a chain brake, choke, has low emissions, the guy put 4 hours on it, watch me cut wood, o yay. seldom do they talk what matters, like what are huskys xtorq motor materials, so far it has a forged crank. This type of marketing really bugs me. Tell me the real facts about your motors, do not keep harping on a brand name of the motor. Shit kills me.

Edited November 4, 2015 by Gump

[Wojo72]

My Poulan Pro sucked right out of the box. Went cheap because I only had 4 trees to take down. Won't stay running and it doesn't have much power.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

[Gump]

My Poulan Pro sucked right out of the box. Went cheap because I only had 4 trees to take down. Won't stay running and it doesn't have much power.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Should have took it back. I made that mistake with a cub weed wackier tat only runs on choke. 1 week turned into 3 months and too late to return.

I think Poulan Pro is the budget version of Husqvarna. There were some 1 or 2 series Huskys that are the same Poulan. Or vice versa since Husqvarna own Poulan and some others.

[speedytriple]

I've got a old craftsman an a cheap poulan for small jobs I only use mine a few times a year though. Would love to get a nice saw but for as little as I use mine just can't justify the money.

[Gump]

I've got a old craftsman an a cheap poulan for small jobs I only use mine a few times a year though. Would love to get a nice saw but for as little as I use mine just can't justify the money.[/quote

Some of the The old all steel cased saws are beasts. They might look like shit but at least they don't have a plastic composite holding the crank case in place like this husky I just bought. Although I've not heard of failures in the composite case, it just sounds sketchy.

[speedytriple]

No old like late 80s old still have plastic case on it. My in-law has a old solid metal craftsman that is a beast. If I need a big saw its what I borrow.

[Pokey]

Dolmar are supposed to have excellent saws and trimmers, not many dealers though.

[max power]

Love my mid line Stihl. It was only about $350 Gump. Come off some of that moldy money.

Miss my Homelite XL12 but it was getting to be like an old harley. Had to tinker with it every time I used it.

[Wojo72]

How much do you guys typically pay to sharpen your chains?

[max power]

How much do you guys typically pay to sharpen your chains?

Pay? I've never paid to sharpen a chain. Takes five minutes to do it yourself.

[redbarron77]

How much do you guys typically pay to sharpen your chains?

 

Two methods:

 

get a set of Chain files, and run the files every little bit

 

-OR-

 

swing by Harbor Freight and spend $20 for an electric chain sharpener, and do all your chains in one afternoon.  

 

Since I have multiple chainsaws, each one has at 4 chains(yeah, I get a bit carried away), it can take a whole 4-6 minutes per chain to sharpen.

 

Depending on how much wood I've been cutting, this can be a once/month, or as seldom as one/year. 

[Bad324]

I acquired a Stihl one last summer as an inheritance and been itching to use it. The new yard I have a few dead trees and a couple ugly ones I plan to get rid of next year. I've never used a chain saw before so this should be fun

[Gump]

I use a Dremel to sharpen, with a chain saw guide attached to the Dremel and the correct bit. Can't think of a cheaper and quicker way. You don't actually need the Dremel guide attachment which is just a plate with a line on it showing angles. Old school file for in the woods works. I'll run the chain till there's less the a 1/8" left of the cutter. Supposed to knock down the depth gauge but I never do and should.

Edited November 9, 2015 by Gump