motocat12 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 https://engineerdog.com/2015/01/11/10-tricks-engineers-need-to-know-about-fasteners/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 That's a long ass article. I safety wire my shit and rewire it when I check torque's. /thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Loc-Tite and torque wrenches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 (edited) 25 minutes ago, Pauly said: Loc-Tite and torque wrenches. All Daymn Day! Says the guy that looked down at his front MC reservoir 1/2 through his stint and saw it dangling next to the mount. Edited June 28, 2019 by TimTheAzn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustinsn3485 Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 On 6/28/2019 at 8:48 AM, Pauly said: Loc-Tite and torque wrenches. Vibra-tite: half the price of loc-tite and of the same chemical make-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 (edited) Not too sure about some of that "engineer" list. Kinda strange. Aerospace has it's own rules. The list of rules was long (Two big manuals full of rules and requirements). We didn't use common lock washers. We did sometimes use inside or outside star washers, in electronics, for grounding. We used a lot of safety wire. We used self locking nuts, especially self locking nutplates that rivet into place on sheet metal. No one puts threads in shear, that's a failure waiting to happen. A minimum of 4 threads in bearing required, 6 to 8 preferred. We never ever put a bolt (some types of bolts are ok), nut or lock washer against a part without a plain washer in-between. Plain washers are punched out of sheet metal, and have a sharp side vs a rounded side; put the rounded side against your part and the sharp side up in the air. (edit: Backwards! sharp side goes down, and the rounded side goes under the bolt or machine screw to prevent contact at the radius under the head and trying to break it.) The torque from the bolt side isn't the same as the nut side, if it's a through bolt with a nut, torque the nut. Torque requirements are strict, and doesn't include "torquing to yield" or " turn it an extra 90 degrees". Hardware of all types is never re-used more than 4 times, and then it's replaced with new. It slowly deforms to failure. Zero cadmium plate, we used zinc plate. All steel hardware was zinc plated. Certain metals never contact each other, it generates di-electric corrosion. The common error is stainless steel and aluminum in contact. Titanium and aluminum in contact is a disaster. I don't remember using chromed hardware anywhere. That's a few of the highlights. Note: Japanese motorcycles use a different type of Phillips (JIS). Striping (cam-out) is common, when using SAE phillips tools. There's special JIS screwdrivers and bits for them. I don't always use them, but I've got them. You can find them on Amazon, or motorcycle tool websites. Or replace them all with socket head cap screws. Read aircraft hardware: https://www.flight-mechanic.com/category/aircraft-materials-processes-and-hardware/ Edited July 13, 2019 by ReconRat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Nordlock washers are pretty dope, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Just ordered a JIS screwdriver a few weeks ago. Every Japanese motorcycle owner should have one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted July 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 or just sum bits. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VESSEL-Impact-Screw-driver-Bits-Heavy-Duty-4-Pcs-JIS-Set-Japan-No-2500/283527685780?epid=1103551457&hash=item4203912694:g:cfsAAOSw9SJdEj~U https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0577-Cross-Head-Hex-Drive/dp/B06ZYK1JL4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=jis+bits&qid=1561948550&s=automotive&sr=1-1 What about Italians? the bolts are metric. I assume the driver in the toolkit for any bike would be the correct one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Honda-Motors-screwdriver-bits-phillips-cross-2-Tool-kit-Motorcycle-HM/283423527774?hash=item41fd5bd35e:g:EjUAAOSw-k5cQhCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted July 1, 2019 Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 16 hours ago, motocat12 said: or just sum bits. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VESSEL-Impact-Screw-driver-Bits-Heavy-Duty-4-Pcs-JIS-Set-Japan-No-2500/283527685780?epid=1103551457&hash=item4203912694:g:cfsAAOSw9SJdEj~U https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0577-Cross-Head-Hex-Drive/dp/B06ZYK1JL4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=jis+bits&qid=1561948550&s=automotive&sr=1-1 What about Italians? the bolts are metric. I assume the driver in the toolkit for any bike would be the correct one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Honda-Motors-screwdriver-bits-phillips-cross-2-Tool-kit-Motorcycle-HM/283423527774?hash=item41fd5bd35e:g:EjUAAOSw-k5cQhCF Dunno, never thought about Euro metric. And yes, the JIS bits with a T-handle set is a must have, for a Japanese bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted July 6, 2019 Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 I tried to safety wire my front sprocket nut and it came off. Safety wire isn't that safe. Yamaha had a recall because of the nut backing off on the 2nd gen R6. They wanted mechanics to use a splined washer that you bend over the nut. Along with retaining compound. which is for thread less assemblies. That shit doesn't come off without a press or puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vf1000ride Posted July 6, 2019 Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 On 6/30/2019 at 9:25 AM, ReconRat said: Plain washers are punched out of sheet metal, and have a sharp side vs a rounded side; put the rounded side against your part and the sharp side up in the air. Plain washers and special countersunk washers should go rounded side towards the head of the bolt. Most bolts in aviation have a small radius between the head and the shank. The rounded edge of the washer gives room for that radius and helps prevent nicks/damage from causing a stress crack in that area and causing bolt failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted July 13, 2019 Report Share Posted July 13, 2019 (edited) On 7/6/2019 at 7:16 PM, vf1000ride said: Plain washers and special countersunk washers should go rounded side towards the head of the bolt. Most bolts in aviation have a small radius between the head and the shank. The rounded edge of the washer gives room for that radius and helps prevent nicks/damage from causing a stress crack in that area and causing bolt failure. That's true. Maybe I got that backwards. Now I'll have to look it up. I do remember using those special beveled washers for special bolts. edit: Yup, sharp side should be down. Rounded side always against bolt or machine screw radius. Keeping the bolt from breaking is more important than the surface below the washer. Edited July 13, 2019 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted July 17, 2019 Report Share Posted July 17, 2019 On 6/30/2019 at 8:57 PM, Pauly said: Nordlock washers are pretty dope, too. This. Split washers are useless, yet engineers keep using them because reasons. AvE did some experiments on his channel and showed that split lock washers dont augment the breaking torque of a bolt at all. It's just another item on the BOM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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