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Where to put BOV?


Brandon

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Wellthe IC piping is in the works, and the BOV needs put on ( this is for an sr20det to make reference), and I have seen people place the BOV on both the hot side and cold...My question where is the best location? For example, if I put it on the intake side, how far away from the throttle body should it be?
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Originally posted by Doug:

The closer to the tb the more responsive it will be. THe closer to the turbo the louder it will be.

This is what I thought as well, but is there a general distance away that it should be, say like 12 inches away from the TB?
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You might have stalling problems putting it on the cold side. Alot of SR and KA guys are having this problem while trying to get all the air out of the pipes. You can turn down the bov, but it will leave more air in the pipes. It can be tuned with a piggyback or standalone, to help aid this problem. But it won't hurt to put it on the hot side and you won't have to deal with the stalling issues. Just my .02
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Originally posted by SHIEF:

You might have stalling problems putting it on the cold side. Alot of SR and KA guys are having this problem while trying to get all the air out of the pipes. You can turn down the bov, but it will leave more air in the pipes. It can be tuned with a piggyback or standalone, to help aid this problem. But it won't hurt to put it on the hot side and you won't have to deal with the stalling issues. Just my .02

Is this a typical proublem, or just something with the SR KA folks? I have an safc 2, which is what i will be using to tune it somewhat, but why would this effect the idle so much? I would rather have it much more responsive, but at the same time i dont want idle issues...hmm
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It's been a common problem for both engines. Basically you'll have to lie to your maf with the safc, telling it that it's pulling enough air to keep it from stalling. Meaning, like if your going down a road, then shift and then come to a stop light or stop sign the car will want to cut out/stall. All your doing with the bov is keeping that air that is trapped in the pipes from being pushed out the turbo on the compressor side opening (compressor surge). The cold side will get rid of the excess air better, but you'll have a better chance of a stalling issue if you don't recirculate the bov. The hot side will still get rid of the excess air, just not as much as the cold side would. But your not taking away too much air for the maf to freak out. If it was me and I wanted to put it on the cold side, I'd recirculate it. If I wanted it on the hot side, I'd vent it to the atmosphere (not recirculate it). If you went with like a AEM EMS, you could get rid of the maf, and just go with a map sensor smile.gif
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If the valve is before the MAF, it can be vented to atmosphere.

 

If the valve is after the the MAF, it needs to be recirculated into the intake stream after the MAF

 

Sheif might have said that, but I don't know the S something setup. If its typical Nissan, its a MAF based car, based on voltage. If you know the resolution and have a chart of the voltage per flow, no need to go standalone, the VQ table can be easily changed.

 

Brandon,

What engine (s series?) / ecu do you have? You may be able to ditch the sfac2. The BOV should have no effect on fueling if done correctly.

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Its an s13 sr20det. And The original plan was to vent it to the atmosphere, but recirulation is possible, although i would have to buy the adapter from HKS. ( I am using the ssqv bov ). Nate want to come out to Matts and have a peak ( and then i can manipulate you into working on the car muwhahahah )
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Originally posted by Mr. Wright:

Its an s13 sr20det. And The original plan was to vent it to the atmosphere, but recirulation is possible, although i would have to buy the adapter from HKS. ( I am using the ssqv bov ). Nate want to come out to Matts and have a peak ( and then i can manipulate you into working on the car muwhahahah )

I'll be at Matt's (Tinman's?) tomorrow around 7-8 hopefully.
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Originally posted by SHIEF:

I was not telling him that he had to go standalone, I was just saying he could go map if he had planned on going standalone someday. Yeah the safc can change the resolution of the maf.

sure can, i just don't like piggy backs when you are able to use stock engine management and components that work perfectly fine.

 

the s13 ecu is interesting to say the least, looks like it was one of the last ecu's to store its contents in an isolated prom - nothing a daughtboard can't fix.

 

p.s. Brandon, look for a z32 MAF, any 90-96 300zxtt maff will do.

smile.gif

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z32 maff huh, i am still on the stock turbo setup. But i can look around, i assume the z32 has a larger air meter??

 

(i cant make it up to matts, execpt on the weekends right now) But your more then welcome to look it over while your there)

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Originally posted by Mr. Wright:

z32 maff huh, i am still on the stock turbo setup. But i can look around, i assume the z32 has a larger air meter??

 

(i cant make it up to matts, execpt on the weekends right now) But your more then welcome to look it over while your there)

The Z32 Mafs, or the Ford Cobra Maf are 70 something or maybe even 80mm in diameter. MAF's will 90% of the time become a restriction in the air path, even at mild boost levels.

 

I'll take a gander at it over Matt's, if I don;t burn the place down before hand smile.gif

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Originally posted by sleepers, inc.:

sure can, i just don't like piggy backs when you are able to use stock engine management and components that work perfectly fine.

 

the s13 ecu is interesting to say the least, looks like it was one of the last ecu's to store its contents in an isolated prom - nothing a daughtboard can't fix.

 

p.s. Brandon, look for a z32 MAF, any 90-96 300zxtt maff will do.

smile.gif

I like piggybacks to a certain level (like around the 350hp level, not much past that). I'm just not a fan of messing with the E-prom/daughter board. 'Pototo, Potato'. Yeah your right though, the S13 ecu is a rather easy prom to rewrite if you have the stuff/knowledge to do it.
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Originally posted by SHIEF:

I like piggybacks to a certain level (like around the 350hp level, not much past that). I'm just not a fan of messing with the E-prom/daughter board. 'Pototo, Potato'. Yeah your right though, the S13 ecu is a rather easy prom to rewrite if you have the stuff/knowledge to do it.

JWT? Who else does it?
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Originally posted by Mr. Wright:

JWT? Who else does it?

stock ecu can calculate fueling for about...700whp ish?

 

Alot od DIY guys out there. Check out sr20tuning, and ztechz.net, and hybridz.org Locally, Joel and I are the only ones I know of? I'm sure there is more :cool:

 

Socketing the ecu is cakewalk, ordering a chip is pretty easy too, its going through hex or disassembling op code to figure out where all the map points are.

 

Or you can cheat and use some "free soft no charge!!!" programs from ja-pan.

 

Compared to an SAFC its about the same price honostly, i like to tune in real time, using romulator - makes shit alotttt easier if road tuning and on a dyno. romulator is 180$, chip and a socket is about 20$ shipped.

 

I don't know what mods are on Brandon's car but the stock maf is junk. If you already have to modify fueling, mind as well work with what you have, if you can.

 

just my two cents, and if ever, please don't pay JWT prices, there is more information out there about injectors, resistor values, turbos, etc. Making money is one thing, raping someone is another.

 

[ 01. June 2005, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: sleepers, inc. ]

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Guest timmybgood

i have my bov about 20" down the hotpipe from the turbo, no problems whatsoever

 

when i upgrade i'll probably go with a power fc or aem ems or something like that

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Well then sounds like i will be hunting for the z32 maf. And then i will be hunting nate down for some tuning. But in the short term it sounds like the BOV would be ideal on the hot side....Although my brain dosent want be to do so, it also dosent want to come to a light and stall.
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