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My project (involves a tight rearend)


martindc1

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Ha! I am in the process of rebuilding my rear-end and installing some 4.10s. I just installed the pinion the other night after several trials of putting it all in minus crush sleeve and checking wear pattern to shim the pinion. The crush sleeve was a bastard. I ended up laying underneath the car and holding the wrench on and checking preload while my dad turned the wrench with his foot. And we were using a 3/4" drive ratchet that was 1.5 feet long. It takes about 160 ft/lbs to crush a crush sleeve so we were using what, 120 lbs. of force? Hopefully tomorrow I will get the carrier put in and have the proper backlash. I will update soon.
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Crush sleeves are a PITA and shouldn't be used in performance rears. Next time or if it's not to late, use a solid pinion spacer. A crush sleeve can actually crush more under hard launches and cause premature pinion bearing wear/failure.
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Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

uh, it takes like 600 ft lbs to crush a crush collar. i did many sets of gears in 8.8 mustangs. better make sure it's crushed all the way or you could end up having some play after awhile

I was just going by what a shop manual said. 600 ft/lbs sounds like an awful lot of torque, you'd need like a 6 foot long wrench to turn that. But the pinion is in there the way its supposed to be, I checked things out several times.

 

Crush sleeves are a PITA and shouldn't be used in performance rears. Next time or if it's not to late, use a solid pinion spacer. A crush sleeve can actually crush more under hard launches and cause premature pinion bearing wear/failure.
I have heard that now that you mention it, I don't think I will have to worry about that though, I don't think my car is powerful enough to do it and I don't think street tires or drag radials would hook up good enough. I think I would break an axle before crushing the crush sleeve further.
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I've done about 5 rear ends now. Took about 300 ft lbs to crush the crush sleeve. Just used a 1/2 drive break bar with a cheater bar on the end and a yoke holder. Although the rear end was out of the car and made it a lot easier. YOu also don't want to over crush it either.
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Originally posted by Tinman:

Crush sleeves are a PITA and shouldn't be used in performance rears. Next time or if it's not to late, use a solid pinion spacer. A crush sleeve can actually crush more under hard launches and cause premature pinion bearing wear/failure.

wear can i get this solid pinion spacer you speak of, and how reliable is it on the street?
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Originally posted by Shrek:

wear can i get this solid pinion spacer you speak of, and how reliable is it on the street?

Like Doug said, Jeg's has them. As far as reliability, well let's just say the only reason to use a crush sleeve is to make it quicker to assemble.

 

In your case, I would not disassemble the rear just to put one in, wait till you do a gear change, then upgrade.

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Originally posted by Faster than Yours:

crush the collar with an impact.

back it off.

set the torque with a torque wrench to the proper spec.

 

this is not?

 

hmmm...ok then what is?

Crush sleeve to achieve proper pinion bearing turning preload with in lb torque wrench.
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Originally posted by Faster than Yours:

crush the collar with an impact.

back it off.

set the torque with a torque wrench to the proper spec.

 

this is not?

 

hmmm...ok then what is?

that defeats the whole purpose of a crush sleeve
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Originally posted by Bill:

Wow so between the pinion shim and the spacer you probably have to put the pinion in, check it, and pull it out like 20 times.

I usually get it in 3 or 4 times, it's not a big hassle and well worth the extra time/effort.
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Originally posted by Tinman:

Like Doug said, Jeg's has them. As far as reliability, well let's just say the only reason to use a crush sleeve is to make it quicker to assemble.

 

In your case, I would not disassemble the rear just to put one in, wait till you do a gear change, then upgrade.

rebuilding it, keeping the carrier and axles, replacing all the bearings, and gear.

 

I don't want to dig into this thing again unless to change the gear or rebuild the t-lok. And niether of these things should happen any time soon.

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Originally posted by Tinman:

I usually get it in 3 or 4 times, it's not a big hassle and well worth the extra time/effort.

Since how much you tighten the pinion nut is no longer dependant on bearing preload, how much torque do you put on the nut when you tighten it?
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