SupraGlue Posted March 18, 2002 Report Share Posted March 18, 2002 Thanks, everyone for the feedback on day 1. I agree with the comments made by Buck and 614Streets. This is definately meant as a safe do-it-yourself deal for cars with reasonably good paint that are looking for a nice "street finish". Severe problems or serious car show details are beyond the scope of this process, btw. As far as paying goes, I am not a professional, just a hobbyist who likes his car. smile.gif You've heard from a couple of the pros on the list, so I'd recommend talking to one of them if you're serious about getting that done. Now, on to day 2, buffing and polishing. If you ever leave the car to sit overnight in the middle of a detail, btw, ALWAYS clean it off with Quick Detailer before continuing on to the next step. Step #3 - Rubbing/buffing compound: Here is where you're going to start using the DA buffer, and a good quality mild rubbing compound. My choice is 3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut. This will knock down any scratches 1500 grit or higher, along with removing a lot of stains, paint or other contaminants left in the surface layer that the clay didn't get. 3M makes some great products with excellent consistency, btw. What you want to do is use a clean buffing pad on the DA, and try not to use too much compound (easy to do). You'll be surprised at how little you need. Start at a slower speed (if it is a multi-speed buffer) and work the compound onto the panel, running the buffer over it lightly. Now, you're going to want to keep buffing until the compound starts to come back up into the pad -- you can increase the speed a little to help. This is a polishing process that uses the abrasive in the compound to knock down the roughness in the surface, and the abrasives become smaller and finer as you continue to buff the surface. When you're done with a panel, there should be only a little residue left. Wipe that off with a clean diaper cloth, then go back over the panel with one of the microfiber cloths to get it totally clean. Once you are done with rubbing compound, the paint should feel super-smooth and be free of any water stains, scuffs, exhaust stains, etc. If it isn't (you have scratches that didn't come out), you might want to talk to a pro about color sanding or a more severe buffing process. Step #4 - Swirl Remover: This is a lot like the buffing stage, but easier. smile.gif The Swirl Remover I use is Meguairs Mirror Glaze Professional #9 Swirl Remover. Get a clean pad for the buffer, and work the swirl remover just like the rubbing compound in step #3, one panel at a time, as always. Again use the DA buffer and diaper cloths to clean off the residue. Finish off by going over each panel with the microfiber cloths to remove any Swirl Remover that didn't come off. Coming tommorrow: final polishing, waxing and maintaing your finish between details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buck531 Posted March 18, 2002 Report Share Posted March 18, 2002 I think I'm old school when I say this, but the last time I used Rubbing compound it ate the clearcoat off the paint and a few layers of paint smile.gif . This was years ago but maybe it has changed since. I'll have to talk to you in more detail about it at Hooters or on IM if you don't mind smile.gif .. The rest of the post was pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dual Webers Suck Posted March 19, 2002 Report Share Posted March 19, 2002 Isn't polishing compound a less harsh version of rubbing compound? I got some to get the scratches out of my guitar, and it didn't leave a big black mark where it ate the paint away like rubbing compound did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bahnstoermer1647545488 Posted March 20, 2002 Report Share Posted March 20, 2002 Mark, a friend of mine told me that you never let anyone know if you're able to buff... I didn't and found out how serious he was. Judging from you're previous replies (verifying again my buddy's creed) you're a brave soul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bahnstoermer1647545488 Posted March 20, 2002 Report Share Posted March 20, 2002 Originally posted by Buck531: the last time I used Rubbing compound it ate the clearcoat off the paint and a few layers of paint smile.gif If you use the 3M Mark suggests it works very well, 3M is very good quality. You can still cut through the paint if you're not careful though, the real buffers are powerful smile.gif I've done my car several times and haven't hurt anything, but I had more experienced supervision (ie my little brother). The result of using a real buffer is unmistakable though. It gleams like an oiled female body part in the Florida sun. Oh, and Mark you're a great asset to the forum and of course my friend, but you don't have a girl friend do you?? Just teasing buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted March 22, 2002 Report Share Posted March 22, 2002 Just some comments... When we buff in our Bodyshop, we have no left over residue... And, after you buff there should be no reason to take out and swirl, because if it was done right there wont be any... Other than those two footnotes your post seems pretty informative to people looking to "clean" up there car a little...now if I can find "day one" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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