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which engine is better B20 or B18 for a crx


Guest Hanseljohn

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Guest Hanseljohn

:) i have a choose to put a b18 or b20 into my pocket rocket yeah i said it pocket rocket lol.. and i am wondering which one is better for me.. I already have a T/3 t/4 turbo for my lil rocket and i am wanting to also put nos on it so these are some things to keep on the engine pick.. i dont know which one is better.. I would love some pros and cons thanks alot everyone

 

IF i can find INfo anywhere it will be right here on columbus racing

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That's just because you picked a Type-R motor for bragging rights. I hardly think a boosted h22 would be anything to be upset over. If anything, freeway rolls would decimate all. :)

 

 

Personally I'd go w/ b18a/b and boost it. Leave it non vtec for easier tuning w/ boost.

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For raw honda NA "muscle", you cant beat the B20/B16A1 set up. Displacement + high flowing head. Granted, its still a honda motor and cant make a ton, but if you want NA shit, thats the way to IMO.

 

Turbo wise, id try the old B18/B16A1 set up. Wider tranny gears, a little more bore, and the head is more than capable of 275cfm.

 

If your looking for like 300hp and thats it, the low dollar way would be a nice plump turbo on a D16Z6. But thats almost too easy.

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so much wrong info in this thread, I would honestly look into a B16 swap and then swap the bottom end out with a GSR block, you can easily get 300whp on a stock block GSR.

 

Ls/Vtec's are garbage, too high of oil pressure on top of all the junk you have to do to run vtec. Remember Vtec heads belong on Vtec blocks.

 

and B20's are pretty much the same as B18a/b but an 84mm bore instead of an 81mm bore. The heads are the same.

 

H22's are so overrated, you obviously have never worked on one before, yes they have the torque, but i would much rather have a b series just for the fact that parts are everywhere for them and maintenece is cake.

 

If you want to do an all motor build, your best best is either the C5 or the C1, Ls/vtec yadda yadda, just slap a ls crank in a vtec block and that is the right way to do a ls/vtec

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For raw honda NA "muscle", you cant beat the B20/B16A1 set up. Displacement + high flowing head. Granted, its still a honda motor and cant make a ton, but if you want NA shit, thats the way to IMO.

B18C5, B16A2, B16A3, and B16B's have higher flowing heads than the oldass A1 head.

 

Turbo wise, id try the old B18/B16A1 set up. Wider tranny gears, a little more bore, and the head is more than capable of 275cfm.

Are you saying B18 block B16 head? If so then yeah that would be pretty quick.. but I'm still not seeing that as ever being faster than a boosted H22 setup.

 

If your looking for like 300hp and thats it, the low dollar way would be a nice plump turbo on a D16Z6. But thats almost too easy.

~200whp@9psi is what any stock D16 maxxes out at before breaking something. With low comp pistons, rods, and a good fuel setup I've seen them hold 18psi though (the green hatchback like mine a couple years ago).

 

Ok maybe ive gotten my A's mixed up here. I was under the impression that the B16A1 head when ported and milled for bigger valves, was more or less a ITR head. I have to admit i only read about it a few years ago so i could be confused.

 

As for the turbo combo, yes, the GSR block and B16A head. It seemed to be the popular way to go for the scratch built jobs, but i think i saw a couple B18B/B16A combos used as well. They made a bit more power, but ended in catastrophic failure. I was never sure why, but i immediately blamed poor build quiality and tuning.

 

As for the H22 setup you speak of... i thought people werent doing it all that much because the engine was unusually heavy??? Thus leading to poor weight distribution and poor cornering around the race track. I suppose if its sole specific purpose is straitline... i guess it wouldnt matter too much.

 

Hell i dunno, this i your dominion... im just guessing :D

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The weight difference is slim in the big picture. I believe its about 60-80lbs difference from an H to B series motors. You could just move the battery to the trunk, and remove the AC, which most people do anyways because of size/room, and it negates any difference between the two motor weights.

 

Carry on...

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so much wrong info in this thread, I would honestly look into a B16 swap and then swap the bottom end out with a GSR block, you can easily get 300whp on a stock block GSR

I'm going to safely assume you mean with boost and since you're the pro, what turbo kit would you recommend? Please don't be a noob and say Greddy.

 

Kits that are already made like Greddy, Drag, Revhard, etc. are for people starting out that dont know much about engine building. A nice ideal setup would be a Full-Race top mount mani or anything with the same quality and design, A nice precision turbo(depends on whats done to the motor will determine the size), a PWR intercooler, and then have your choice of the other supporting mods to finish a turbo kit. These are obviously the best parts out there and if you are on a budget build this is not up your alley.

 

H22 swaps only weigh 40lbs more than B swaps, nothing major but its a harder swap to do than a b swap in any car other than preludes and accords. With an H22 in a CRX you are going to have to cut the hood or make custom mounts to get the engine to sit lower.

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H22's hate boost just as much as a TYPE-r or a GSR engine because they also have poor rod stroke ratios and are 10:1 compression stock. Most likely any engine you pick for boost has to be torn down and built up in the Honda world.

 

the H22 is basically a B16 head and a larger bored/stroked block, they flow about the same and share the same characteristics.

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stock compression in the vtec motors isnt too high, it all matters on the tune. There are plenty of stock block ITR/GSR's running 12's at around 10psi. Lower compression is just a little insurance factor for any tuning mistakes. The key word im using is tuning, you can tune anything to run on anything, obviously you would be stupid if you wanted to build a 14.5:1 turbo motor, lol, anything higher than 11:1 i wouldnt turbo
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Guest chrisferguson

 

quoted for truth.

 

talk to corey. he will get you going in the right direction. talk to... testarosa, i believe his name is. he started from scratch with a GSR and corey set him up with about 3 different routes to take for his car and within his budget.

 

slowmotion knows their shit.

 

9 second hatch :eek: :woowoo:

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Don't take my word for it...but I have only heard bad things about slow motion from people who dont work there.

 

These arn't first hand, but best be had both sides of the story.

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stock compression in the vtec motors isnt too high, it all matters on the tune. There are plenty of stock block ITR/GSR's running 12's at around 10psi. Lower compression is just a little insurance factor for any tuning mistakes. The key word im using is tuning, you can tune anything to run on anything, obviously you would be stupid if you wanted to build a 14.5:1 turbo motor, lol, anything higher than 11:1 i wouldnt turbo

 

Maybe if you don't want to run on race gas it makes a difference.

 

Please tell me you don't work at SlowMo?

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Don't take my word for it...but I have only heard bad things about slow motion from people who dont work there.

 

These arn't first hand, but best be had both sides of the story.

 

The only experience I have with them (high school project car that continues to be a money pit...the Dirty Old Mopar) has been phenomenal. They helped me and my friend out for absolutely nothing, basically teaching us everything. They not only are phenomenal builders, they are all awesome dudes.

 

They're definitely helping us to do some FREAKY shit to the dirty old mopar. Whether it ever gets done is the question.

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Don't take my word for it...but I have only heard bad things about slow motion from people who dont work there.

 

These arn't first hand, but best be had both sides of the story.

 

They tuned my car with 10.2:1 comrpession on 13 psi and it runs great( and i dont work there), havent had a problem with any of the work theyve done for me and they sent me to a great place to get my motor work done. They are also the nicest guys that work and run a shop that ive ever met and i have NEVER heard anyhting bad about them.

 

......Unlike someone else i know.

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Maybe if you don't want to run on race gas it makes a difference.

 

Please tell me you don't work at SlowMo?

 

Nope, I dont work at Slowmotion...

 

Race gas for a stock motor turboed? Are you crazy? People turbo their GSR's and Type R's all day long and hit 300whp easily, its all about the tune. O yea, this is all on 93 octane. And again let me state, IT"S ALL ABOUT THE TUNE.

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300whp on a d16 is not a cheap route... My block is built and im running around 280whp @ 18 psi. you cannt run that on a stock block.

 

A ported GSR head is better than a ported B16 head.

 

B16a1's did not come from the 92-95 civic si's they all have d16z6's.

 

rane, please explain what youve heard. Ive never heard anything bad from that shop.

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There are four b18c's..

b18c1 = usdm gsr

b18c5 = usdm teg type r

b18c = jdm gsr

b18cr = jdm teg type r

 

I assume you mean the c1 though, and I do agree they are the best platform for boost. With low compression pistons, forged rods, a b18b tranny, upgraded clutch, axles, suspension, and fuel they can be in the 12's with a decent tune and some slicks. But all that right there costs over $10k including engine. I'd rather buy a stock Corvette that already does that :cool:

 

 

the b18b is the worst tranny for that engine. the shorter the gears, teh better, b16a2 / b18c1 / ITR's

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Drag racing rule of thumb:

 

"A quicker shift is always better than a shorter gear."

 

Break that down. The quickest shift comes from an automatic. Automatics have much longer gears than manuals. Your best bet is to go with the longer gear.

 

Turbo chargers make stupid amounts of torque on all engines except ones that say HONDA on them. Thus, why have tons of torque and only a lil bit of gear to use it in.... so you can do extra spectacular displays of no traction???? Use the longer gear, keep your tires planted, and use that torque longer.

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