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So, wanna see the Formula's mod list?


MrMeanGreen

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For years people have asked me, "what's done to your car". Whereas I've replied, " a lot, and I don't feel like going through everything".

 

Well, the guy at Synergy Motorsports doing my initial Speed Density tune needed a list of everything done to my car, with some additional info like fuel pressures. So I grabbed my partial mod info from the Boosted Lists at LS1Tech and made the "everything done to my car right now" list.

 

So for those of you curious, here it is. 1998 Pontiac Firebird Formula A4:

 

Engine-

 

Block: Stock LS1 346

 

Compression: Stock 10.1:1

 

Oiling: SLP HD oil pump

 

Crankshaft: Stock

 

Connecting Rods: Stock

 

Pistons: Stock

 

Cylinder Heads: Port matched LQ9s w/ three-angle valve job/machined seats, 6.0L graphite head gaskets

 

Valvetrain: 2002 LS6 valve springs/retainers, Comp Cams hardened 7.40" pushrods

 

Camshaft: 2002 LS6

 

Rocker Arms: Stock

 

Intake Manifold: LPE/Weiand aluminum

 

Throttle Body: Janzter ported/polished 78mm

 

Ignition/Computer: MSD wires/Autolite 104 plugs @ .032" gap/Stock PCM w/ LS1 Edit tuning

 

Headers: MAC mid-lengths

 

Exhaust: Chris Pippy true duals

 

Cooling System: Stock radiator w/ Zirgo single fan, Redline Water-wetter, Hypertech 160* t-stat

 

Lubrication: Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic, Purolator PureONE filter

 

 

Induction-

 

Type: ATI Procharger P-1SC-1, MMS overdrive crank pulley/Reichard Racing 3.4" Ultra-Grip supercharger pulley (six rib setup), Dayco Poly-Cog belt

 

Boost: 12-14psi

 

Intercooler: ATI twins

 

 

Fuel-

 

Pump: ATI 255lph in-line, Walbro 340m 255lph in-tank (60psi idle, 62psi cruising, 70psi under boost)

 

Injectors: Mototron 60#

 

Rails/Lines: Stock w/ returnless system

 

Type: Sunoco Ultra 94 (add five gallons of Ultra 100 in hot weather)

 

 

Drive train/Transmission-

 

Transmission: Berberich Racing Stage III 4L60E

 

Clutch/Converter: TCI SSF 3500

 

Driveshaft: 3.5" 3rd Gen 1LE aluminum

 

Rear Axle: Stock 10-bolt, Zexel-Torsen HD diff, GM Superior 3.73s, TA girdle

 

 

Chassis-

Front Suspension: Stock

Rear Suspension: Stock shocks, Intrax 2” lowering springs, BMR tubular PHR, BMR tubular LCAs, BMR boxed SFCs (weld-in), BMR DSL

Brakes: Brake Specialties front/rear cross-drilled/slotted rotors, front Performance Friction Kevlar/ceramic pads

 

Wheels & Tires-

Wheels: Weld Pro-Stars, 15x3.5/15x8

Tires Front: Metric skinnies, 44psi

Tires Back: BFG 275/50/15 drag radials, 12 psi

 

Appearance-

Body: Stock w/ WS6 hood, 1 of 124 Blue-Green Chameleon Formulas, debadged

Interior: Stock w/ Auto-Meter Ultra-Lite gauges

Race Weight: 3750

 

 

This is as the car sits right now, and it still needs tuned pretty bad and finished being re-assembled. No secret, just what's there.

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Worth repeating. How much invested in that car? Those pices of shit should be on the bottom of your fish tank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you have a fish tank?

 

truth!

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Good list but you have the wrong pushrods. I think you need 7.450 long pushrods. The base circle on the LS6 is smaller than a stock LS1 cam. Do some research on LS1tech.com or call on of the sponsors on there. Pushrods and Preload are big topics on LS1tech.com these days.

 

Your CR is around 9.5 with your "new" heads.

 

Why the big difference with the fuel pressure? You don't have a boost a pump do ya, if so, get rid of it.

 

Bill

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It doesn't matter anymore, it's built for me and for what I want out of it. I'm happy with it :)

 

That is what fucking matters +1

 

People gave me shit for the bug

I liked it but relized it was not fun

 

People gave me shit for the monte

but look it eats all kinds of stuff.

- BUT its not done yet.

 

Thats a bad ass machine i had the pleasure of hearing it the night you were going to pwn the (300hp Neon) hahahahaha. that would not even race my stock at the time monte. and the hoodless wonder of a mustang who drove from the westside no hood and had no gas to race.

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Sam, nothing was wrong with them. Unfortunately, "hand tight" doesn't work with the 8mm support studs. They need screwed in and just bottomed out in the block with an allen wrench. Thanks to an hour of ARP's Tech Support for that :)

 

Nick, I know. But now being single with the kids full-time and all of my other bills, I have to make do with what I have available. You'll whup my ass, but I'm not out to win against everyone anymore, I'm just out to have fun.

 

Eli, agreed. Again I do have ceramic coated Diamond pistons that were supposed to be complemented by forged rods. But see my reply to Nick. I gotta make do with what I have. All in good time, I'm hoping to rebuild and forge the engine post-season this year. And no, I don't own a fishtank, so they'll end up hanging from my peg board in the garage.

 

Bill, I know. But the marginal length difference makes my .551 lift more like .549. Not a big deal at this point, and I scored the pushrods almost brand new from John Lovins for half of new cost.

 

Scott, Andrew has it right. 140lbs is another tenth and a half :D It's an auto too, still not easy to launch, but easier thana manual and without the driver error of missing gears. I've seen even the best manual drivers miss at times.

 

Derek, not a chance :p

 

This isn't a list for people to debate on, but more an informational post since I've been asked time and time again about what I have done. What you see is a list of three years of work and investments. I'm happy with my car, it's really fun to take down the strip or run out to Hocking Hills.

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Why, the LS1 and LS6 have the same pushrods from the factory IIRC.

 

 

No they don't:

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1981/products/81649/LS6-2002-Z06-204-218-Duration-0050-Hydraulic-Roller-Camshaft.htm

 

 

It's all about the Preload on the valves Anthony, I'm not bullshitting you, just want you to have the correct parts on your car and to not have an issues down the road.

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