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pivot shaft wrench? who's got one?


natedogg624
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i need to borrow this tool to remove my engine and swingarm.

i really don't want to spend 50+ bucks on something ill use maybe two more times...

if you don't know what it is, its basically a socket with two "castle's" on top exactly 180 deg opposite one another.

i've tried budging it with wd40/lithium grease, punch and a hammer and its not moving. its only supposed to be finger tight but im assuming over time its just gotten stuck...

any ideas? i don't have a dremel i can use to cut a socket up so no dice on that idea ahead of time.

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Dude, you need the proper tools for an engine removal and such as you are doing... Plus, it isn't just finger tight. You ought to be using a good torque wrench...

That all said, I have such a socket, but what I have had to do in the past is make one as mine was being borrowed.

Take a 20mm socket from TSC or similar. Whatever size you need to match the diameter of the lock nut you have...

Make your marks and get a dremel tool or air tool with a cutting wheel and make one. Otherwise, you NEED to make sure that thing is back on there in the specified torque...

Don't half ass on this project, man. Saving money and such is fine, but these things are very sensitive to doing things wrong and you are the one having to ride the thing...

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yea now i know its not supposed to be finger tight. i was doing too much reading on how to remove it online without the wrench and all the posts said their's were finger tight.

just got confused.

i dont have a dremel that i can do that with, i guess ill just have to get the part. frick.

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Dude, you need the proper tools for an engine removal and such as you are doing... Plus, it isn't just finger tight. You ought to be using a good torque wrench...

That all said, I have such a socket, but what I have had to do in the past is make one as mine was being borrowed.

Take a 20mm socket from TSC or similar. Whatever size you need to match the diameter of the lock nut you have...

Make your marks and get a dremel tool or air tool with a cutting wheel and make one. Otherwise, you NEED to make sure that thing is back on there in the specified torque...

Don't half ass on this project, man. Saving money and such is fine, but these things are very sensitive to doing things wrong and you are the one having to ride the thing...

True story.. Worked like a charm.. Here is the above penis face in the process of making the socket the day we swapped drews motor.

IMG00018.jpg

And the cleaned up version. :D

IMG000189.jpg

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It's me again...

1999-2002 Yamaha R6 shop manual

page 7-75

Installing the swingarm

Pivot Shaft Adjust Bolt - Use the pivot shaft wrench to tighten the pivot shaft adjust bolt to finger tightness.

Pivot Shaft Nut - 95 Nm (9.5 m-kg, 69 ft-lb)

picture.php?albumid=34&pictureid=242

They aren't the same thing. One is a "remove the slack from the assembly adjuster" nut,

and the other one is a "I don't want my swing arm to fall off while moving" nut.

The pivot shaft adjust bolt needs the special tool. I have no idea if the pivot shaft nut needs anything special.

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thanks for that. i had to look at it again closer.

the nut is the one that you don't want to come off, and its just a normal nut. the adjuster bolt is the finger tight and special tool req'd.

wow again thanks for clarifying that. my brain is totally fried from school and what not. seriously thanks.

on a side note im heading up to formula buckeye garage and seeing if they have some sheet metal i can cut into the size of the slot.

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ok so maybe not the best idea but i was bored and just yanked on the swingarm a few times and it budged loose.

checked the adjuster bolt and bearings all look ok, nothing damaged in the process...

now its just going to be a bitch to get back on. i think by the time i need to put it back on i will have myself a dremel and will be able to make my own tool.

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I had to say something... if that pivot shaft adjust bolt got torqued to 69 foot pounds, I might wonder if it had just turned into a hard tail....

I like the term finger tight. Obviously not a genuine Yamaha Service Manual. I think Nate said it was 95nm. I don't know what everyone's finger strength is, but there's no substitute for a torque wrench.

I was more concerned with the nut. It cannot be tightened with the screw driver/hammer method and isn't a good idea to do it that way to remove.

What I am saying is that unless you have the proper tools, you really ought to wait until you can get them or get something that will work better...

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made me look, nope, it's:

Item: Official 1999-2002 Yamaha YZF-R6 Factory Service Manual

Item #: LIT-11616-12-62

If you think that's bad, I remember the first manuals from Japan back in the mid 60's. We had constant interruptions from hysterical laughter at some of the extremely poor translations into English.

Factory manuals are still the best. I remember chasing a Ford Mustang problem that all the manuals said was hooked up correctly.

I found the Mitchell's manual said the opposite connections. And that worked, all the others were wrong, and were probably all taken from

the factory manuals. So nothing is perfect, I suppose.

I've also seen the manual for the B-1B Lancer, it took me maybe 3 weeks to work through the hydraulic schematic alone.

That was border-line impossible to read and comprehend.

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this is where im getting confused.

i do indeed have the factory service manual same as the one reconrat posted up. the factory service manual says finger tight for both the swingarm and engine adjuster bolts.

the haynes service manual says engine adjuster 7Nm, and the swingarm adjuster finger tight.

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Engine mounting adjuster bolts (Engine adjuster bolts) are something entirely different that I don't think were mentioned before. As far as I can see, they go in first when re-installing the engine. They probably locate the engine on the frame properly before installing the mounting bolts and torquing down. The difference between 7 n-m and finger tight isn't much, and I'd feel comfortable using the 7 n-m anywhere it asked for finger tight. With one exception, when finger tight is going to take the lash out of a bearing assembly, which is what the swingarm pivot shaft adjust bolt is probably doing. I'd have to see the parts to know for sure. The 95 n-m (69 ft-lb) is for the swingarm shaft nut (what the manual calls pivot shaft nut).

So this is another place to use the special tool, and now for a specific torque. You need one now. And most torque wrenches don't even go down to 7 n-m, but an inch-pound torque wrench would. Inch-pound torque wrenches work well with motorcycles. Most all of a bike can be done with an inch-pound torque wrench. All except the heavy hardware, like the oil filter bolt, fork yoke nuts, rear axle nut, drive sprocket, etc which would need the bigger ft-lb torque wrench.

Edited by ReconRat
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