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If I can't cut a 60' on these, I suck


Buck531

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Borrowed from Derek. I need to grind down the caliper bracket about 1/8th inch and I'll be set. If these don't hook at Norwalk on Monday, I'm burning the car.

 

http://bucky.kicks-ass.net/car/tires/tire2.jpg

 

http://bucky.kicks-ass.net/car/tires/tire3.jpg

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Bucky, you were doing a lot of one wheel burn outs the other day, be careful you dont do like shanton and snap an axel... he was doing the same thing.

 

That's because the person who was pointing me in the water box was pulling me out of the water. In my car I need to stay in the water and I'll light up both wheels.

 

That, and I'm not going to be doing any burnouts on these tire for the first few passes, just to see how it feels.

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If you want less hook, use some Comp TAs and get them hot. Something else you may want to consider is running a higher tire pressure.

 

Call me crazy, but what's the point of getting those tires and shooting for wicked 60's if you're afraid of busting your driveline? Your transaxle doesn't care what tires you have: A 1.5 is a 1.5, it stresses your components the same. The assigned values of "good for 12's" dont really make any sense. If you had 100hp extra, moused the car off the line, your tranny would take you to 12s just fine. If you launch it hard with your hp, it will not take you to 12s, it will take you to ebay. It's not the HP, but the load and the impulse that breaks your parts. Case in point: Cougar

Launch hard with AOD on hot Comp TAs = good 60s and low 13s (i full trim anyways)

Launch hard with exactly same everything and manual tranny = busted half shafts every time.

Why? The TC absorbs load, the clutch does not, it goes straight to the wheels. The power and torque are exactly the same (actually, TCs can amplify torque), but the impulse is shorter.

For an even simpler demonstration, set a hammer on a glass table...then drop a hammer on a glass table.

 

If you get your moneys worth out of those tires, it's going the break your car.

If you don't, the extra traction/friction and uberstick may rob you in the in the big end.

SO, if you have more parts at home, go for broke and lanch that whore. If not, come down and borrow my Comp TAs, god knows I'm not using them with my TKO. :o

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No Eric, i want more hook than my MT sportsman pro's that cut mid 1.9's. I'm just worried about these hooking TOO much and snappying either A: my input shaft, or B: my differential. Like I said above, If I launch light enough I'll probably be fine.

 

You're not making much sense on the "12's" comment. I have enough power to get into 12's. I dyno'd 280 at the wheels on a crappy tune. I just cannot get out of the hole without spinning the shit out my tires. Hence the reason in borrowing these.

 

and don't compare a FWD car to a RWD car.. just please don't ;).

 

.1 tenth in my 60' is equal to about .2 tenths in the 1/4. If I ran a 1.95 60' and ran a 13.1 @ 104, then in comparison if I run a 1.85 60' i'd be running 12.9

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Your transaxle doesn't care what tires you have: A 1.5 is a 1.5, it stresses your components the same.

 

 

Not true. Drag radials are actually harder on drivetrains than regular slicks are. They use soft compounds, but stiffer sidewalls; whereas slicks use soft compounds with soft widewalls. Stiffer sidewall = more shock to drivetrain and less 'give'.

 

Basically what I'm saying is, it's easier to break shit running drag radials.

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true story ^.

 

Run about 12-14psi and make sure your alignment is spot on or that thing will be a hand full. You need to stiffin up the rear and maybe some skinnies out back.

 

yep.. i bought some spring blockers to put in the back and jack it up.

 

The alignment sucks. but it's been like this for 5 years now. it still pulls to the left no matter how good the alignemnt is. I've driven with slicks before so I know how it feels. :).

 

Got me the trailer and got me a truck. Rock on :).

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You're not making much sense on the "12's" comment. I have enough power to get into 12's.

I'm not adressing the ratio of power vs ET. You cant run 12s on 100hp if you cut enough weight. What I was refering to was "Good for 12s" being used as a unit of measure describing the strength for your drivetrain. It would be more accurate to measure its strength in NM or LbFt. You can take the same tranny that ran a 12, put it in a 14sec car, and break it.

 

I will compare FWD to RWD, because were talking about traction. Consider yourself lucky that I didn't just chime in with "If you want to launch right, do it in reverse LOLz!" :D

 

Not true. Drag radials are actually harder on drivetrains than regular slicks are. They use soft compounds, but stiffer sidewalls; whereas slicks use soft compounds with soft widewalls. Stiffer sidewall = more shock to drivetrain and less 'give'.
True, most of the time. It applies here but the effects are negligable and can be nullified with tire pressure adjustments. The aspect ratio of those slicks isn't that great, and that cuts down on the give.
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