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y2k2gt
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My race car I drive on the street broke the trans.

 

The trans showed signs of being broke but, I still drove it...i.e. I had to bring the rpms up to get it to move.

 

I told a shop no hurry to fix a race car part but, couldn't wait 3 weeks to find out what was wrong.

 

I now had another shop take it apart and expect the original shop, who didn't have a chance to see what was broke, cover some cost of fixing it.

 

The other b.s. is me being mad due to someone down playing that my trans could not of been what it was made out to be....but that was someones opinion and they tried to show why they had that opinion which only mad me madder.

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^ That is what I get of this thread. I agree everyone is entitled to their opinions and the internet is where most express them and a good source of consumer warning to alert other people.

 

So here is mine. You do run the shit out of your car, we all do who race them and I have seen you car at the track. Shit breaks, alot. I know this well. You know PA would not of fixed the trans for free since you got it second hand so you had a local shop fix it. It then broke again after several hard passes and street driving. You should know that was hard on a trans being a 2000 dollar trans or a 50 dollar one. You should know as well when letting other people work on stuff it takes time, esp. when you say its no hurry. The washer could of been ate up as other stuff broke or it could of been left out but, you couldn't wait so your probably gonna have to eat this one. This is just my opinion. As I said i have seen your car progress for the past few years at the track. I like your car, not a big fan of louvers, but none the less you have a nice car. Your car is now a race car you drive on the street though and these are the problems that come up.

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Guest Wunna Dig Race
Thread sumary:

 

My race car I drive on the street broke the trans.

 

The trans showed signs of being broke but, I still drove it...i.e. I had to bring the rpms up to get it to move.

 

I told a shop no hurry to fix a race car part but, couldn't wait 3 weeks to find out what was wrong.

 

I now had another shop take it apart and expect the original shop, who didn't have a chance to see what was broke, cover some cost of fixing it.

 

The other b.s. is me being mad due to someone down playing that my trans could not of been what it was made out to be....but that was someones opinion and they tried to show why they had that opinion which only mad me madder.

 

Couldnt have said it better

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Guest hotrodmama024
Um NO. I'm not a skank!

 

Awesome! I have been wanting to know that for awhile now.

 

I hope this gets resolved. As far as i know Rob does some pretty good work, and knows what he is talking about. Good luck!

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Guest crazylady
So couldn't the shiny metal in the trans fluid be the washer completely grinded up from driving it after there was signs of problems?

 

Thats why they remove them and install roller bearings. brass washers are not intended for this type of abuse! They just dont take it.(I have been learning alot about this stuff cause Rob is building a Bullet proof C-6 for his car in the garage) Cause he doesnt want to take a chance at having a broken C-4 every other pass or so!

 

 

y2k : You said "I never said any thing bad about Rob." But in the PM you sent him on turbostangs, you flat out called him stupid! (He should be posting on this here very soon!) I'll shut up till then!(He showed me the PM, and he has also told me not to put in my opinion. But im not going to sit here and let you bad mouth my husband or his place of employment)

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Thread sumary:

 

My race car I drive on the street broke the trans.

Yes, it did.

 

The trans showed signs of being broke but, I still drove it...i.e. I had to bring the rpms up to get it to move.

Yes, It showed signs of something being wrong. This having to give it a little gas started a week before it broke. As stated I thought this was because of just installing a new cooler. Be not being smart about transmission. I thought it was just air in the lines. Lesson learned.

When at the track in the pits at the nmra after just getting it running with the freshed engine. I pushed the transbrake and as the boost went up the car started to slowly move forward. I again not being smart in this area. I thought it had to do with the tc not being able to hold the power. Lesson learned. After talking to PA about this issue. They said the brake should hold whatever I throw at it. Just like it did before they refreshed it. They also this would have been because of the clearences not being set right. Like missing washer. How was I to know then that this was a problem with the way it was assembled. I trusted them to build it right and Mike seemed like A nice person.

So yes, I drove the car. Now that I know all of this it won't happen again.

 

I told a shop no hurry to fix a race car part but, couldn't wait 3 weeks to find out what was wrong.

I was told that they wouldn't get to it until next week. Yes, I said ok I'm not in that big of a hurry.

Then Rob posted this on that site....

my boss freshened it up. IMO i dont think its a PA super comp. it only has 2 roller bearings in the whole trans. a super comp has like 10. we'll have it apart next week and see what broke.

Yes this pissed me off, so I called PA and got all the info I needed to prove that Robs' opinion was wrong. So, I sent him a pm and told him in fact it was a super comp. He then sent this to me...

ok you have a PA pump and servo and brake. that does not make it a super comp trans. when mike had it apart, i looked at everything, becuase at the time i was researching on biulding my own since i dont have 2000 just to put down on one. adding it all up too 2400, was not fesaable to me. but anyway, a PA super comp trans has 10 roller bearings in it. yours only had like 2 or 3. it looks very much like my buddie bobbies trans, with is the 450 horse model, but he bought the brake and put it in the trans. and its the internals that make it a super comp trans. 4 pinion planets etc. and the fact it had some stock type clutchs in it make me think otherwise aswell.plus a super comp trans has the hardened input shaft in it, which i dont think yours did since you broke it off the last time. but i dont knwo the whole story. therre is a page on ther web showing a trans guy taking apart a brand new super comp from PA. ill see if i can find it again. and from the pics. you can see the difference in the trans when they are apart.

Yes, this pissed me off even more. This is a person that works at the shop that has my transmission. So, after being on the phone even more with PA and knowing without a doubt what the transmission was. I did go there and take it. For all I knew at that point they would take it apart again and then come up with some kind of lie about what happened. I think that any one else would have done the same thing as I did. Even the person I bought it from posted that in fact it was a super comp. I then posted what the other shop findings. I won't paste Rob response on that one because of the length. Read it for yourself, but he stated that it didn't have the parts in it to make it a super comp and asked why they were not there. Read it here.

http:// http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=98409.0

I then posted pics of the very parts he said was not in the transmission. Now at this point not anyone from that shop said to me they would like to see the parts. I had even sent mike an email linking him to the thread. He never responded to that email until I posted about the issue here.

 

 

I now had another shop take it apart and expect the original shop, who didn't have a chance to see what was broke, cover some cost of fixing it.

Yes, most of this was covered above. IMO they should cover the full cost, but that is just my opinion. And as stated before, they had almost 3 weeks to look at something that may have been cause by their assembly.

 

The other b.s. is me being mad due to someone down playing that my trans could not of been what it was made out to be....but that was someones opinion and they tried to show why they had that opinion which only mad me madder.

YEs YES YES, but that opinion turned into him stating facts that he saw that said parts were not there. Really got me worried about the shop.

 

 

 

When it broke. The first thing I thought was shit how much is this going to cost me!!!!!! I thought for sure it was going to cost me atleast $600 to get it fixed. Then after it was apart and I found out what was wrong with it. I was like damn this should not have happened. I shouldn't even have to pay to have it fixed. I only posted that said shop should help to fix this issue that is all.

 

 

To the other people that seem to know so much about transmission. Why don't you use the phone # in this post and get facts instead of this friend or that friend had this.

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Robs a great guy.

 

Y2K A trans thats not a full roller is not a super comp trans. Super Comp Trans is Full Roller and that was not...... I have saw your trans. I was actually having rob fix my car and checked out the trans because he was showing me that it was supposed to be a SuperComp. Im sorry you got burned by the previous owner. Im sure your pushing more than 450 hp that your trans is rated for. I am big into trans ect. I have broken super comp trans in a mustang. I can almost garantee that you didnt get 300+full passes on your stock 3650 transmission. A stock car breaks those after around 75 passes if you drive your car balls out which you dont do because your scared of it. Have you ever drove your car balls out? Whats the name of this "OTHER" shop you took it too?

 

oh and BTW you drove your car to the track from Asville and made how many passes a day and drove it home? How much street driving did you do? The Super Comp Trans is not made for alot of street driving like stated above 3rd is basically just there for the ride LOL.

 

You cant blame Rob because he recomened his work/boss. I have had my trans Rebuilt by Mike several times and Havent had any problems. I usually refresh it every year. But if you call him and bug/harass him he might not do such a great job since he is busy and has other people ahead of you. Did you tell them that you get your 10% because of CR? I know I always get it when I go.

1st read the post I made above in detail and learn.

 

Now about the stock 3650 that came in my car that is still in perfect condition. I bought the car in 2002 with 17 miles on it.. I started taking it to the track in 2003. The first pass ever was a 13.80 somthing at 100. Not bad for almost stock gt running street tires. Even then my 60's were in the 1.7- 2.0's every pass. It was always balls out as you put it. I still have the stock clutch that came in it and it looks just fine itself. I could show it to you and I'm sure you would agree seeing how you are big into transmissions and ect..

2004 I added heads, cams,k-member, 4.30 gears and a bunch of other stuff. It ran a best that year at 12.20@111. I had a lasoto tune on it at that time. The 2-step was set around 4500rpm and dumped the clutch on every launch. It out ran most 03-04 cobras, gts with 150 shots of nitrous, and many supercharged gt as well. It was also ways balls out. The key to this is not to run sticky tires. Because we all know here that traction will brake shit, for sure stock parts. I would rather spin the tires off the line and loose a few tenths than dead hook and break parts. Then in 2005 when I installed the twin turbos. I really started to break stuff and replaced with better everytime. I even drove the car to tampa,fl area in december of 05 and made about 12 1/8 passes while I was there with the 3650. It never gave me any problems. The best pass with the 3650 was 11.23@127. I also was running a spec stage 3 clutch and aluminum flywheel. I was still using the 2-step this whole year. The only difference was I slipped the clutch alot. That for sure showed because it was toast when I pulled it out to install the C4. So, yes more that 300 passes. I even bought another spec stage 3 clutch and aluminum flywheel to put this transmission back in the car for the winter. I was thinking about driving it to fl again this year and racing down there. After buying it I changed my mind and I'm just going to wait to put the C4 back in. And if I take it to fl I will just put it on the trailer.

And if you don't think I drive my car hard you should just take a ride with me when I get it running again. I have no problems giving someone a little ride..

It will for sure be alot quicker seeing how I sent the torque converter out to be restalled so it doesn't slip 15% and the transmission will be 100% this time.

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Guest Wunna Dig Race
1st read the post I made above in detail and learn.

 

Now about the stock 3650 that came in my car that is still in perfect condition. I bought the car in 2002 with 17 miles on it.. I started taking it to the track in 2003. The first pass ever was a 13.80 somthing at 100. Not bad for almost stock gt running street tires. Even then my 60's were in the 1.7- 2.0's every pass. It was always balls out as you put it. I still have the stock clutch that came in it and it looks just fine itself. I could show it to you and I'm sure you would agree seeing how you are big into transmissions and ect..

2004 I added heads, cams,k-member, 4.30 gears and a bunch of other stuff. It ran a best that year at 12.20@111. I had a lasoto tune on it at that time. The 2-step was set around 4500rpm and dumped the clutch on every launch. It out ran most 03-04 cobras, gts with 150 shots of nitrous, and many supercharged gt as well. It was also ways balls out. The key to this is not to run sticky tires. Because we all know here that traction will brake shit, for sure stock parts. I would rather spin the tires off the line and loose a few tenths than dead hook and break parts. Then in 2005 when I installed the twin turbos. I really started to break stuff and replaced with better everytime. I even drove the car to tampa,fl area in december of 05 and made about 12 1/8 passes while I was there with the 3650. It never gave me any problems. The best pass with the 3650 was 11.23@127. I also was running a spec stage 3 clutch and aluminum flywheel. I was still using the 2-step this whole year. The only difference was I slipped the clutch alot. That for sure showed because it was toast when I pulled it out to install the C4. So, yes more that 300 passes. I even bought another spec stage 3 clutch and aluminum flywheel to put this transmission back in the car for the winter. I was thinking about driving it to fl again this year and racing down there. After buying it I changed my mind and I'm just going to wait to put the C4 back in. And if I take it to fl I will just put it on the trailer.

And if you don't think I drive my car hard you should just take a ride with me when I get it running again. I have no problems giving someone a little ride..

It will for sure be alot quicker seeing how I sent the torque converter out to be restalled so it doesn't slip 15% and the transmission will be 100% this time.

 

You live in ashville right? I have never saw your car around there. But im not saying its not there. Im not saying its fast. Im just saying you cant expect them to fix it when they didnt open it up

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The c4 is not the only tranny I have for it. Look in the for sell forum... I'm trying to sell alot of my parts to off set the $900 it is costing to fix this time. It cost me $900 when shifflet did it. I provided the new pump and input shaft. Over $300 and the $600 they charged for the labor, clutch and gasket kit.

 

Mike didn't say anything like that as I still have the voice mail saved. I can foward that message to someone if you like???

 

The first I heard that there was no kind of warranty was when I called and told mike what was wrong. He then said "my hands are washed" because someone else opened it. I have no paper work that stated they have to open it up if there is a problem. Maybe they will now have that put in their paper work.

 

it didnt cost you 900 dollars at my shop ! your bill was 600! 300 in labor, and 300 for altos, kolenes and kevlar bands! mike charged you cost on all those parts! and that is also why you didnt get your 10% off! infact you you took mike for a test ride in it, you had even stated then it had never worked better! it took time for those kevlar bands and clutchs to come in from our supplier! and for your info mike had it apart in about a hour! i had glanced over the parts while it was apart on the bench! infact i didnt even really look at the front planet. and i also stated, im going off info that a PA sales rep had givin me! i was told they use the 4 pinion rear planet, machine them for roller bearings and etc etc! but then what the fuck do salesman know?

 

i could care less if its a pa super comp or not. i have been told 2 different storys from them. i give them props for there power planets, and brake's! IMO i wouldnt have put it behind anything without it being full roller, cause its just going to break again! yeah i goffed when i said mike should have it apart in a week to see whats up, the getrag trans he had apart and the a4ld he had apart (1 on each bench, we only have 2 teardown bench's) where ahead of you, and where delayed on there parts being harder to find! and if mike owuld have taken it apart, then mike would have taken care of you! but you decided to come get it, and then start running your mouth!

and as far as you out put shaft walking , then there was a complete other problem there other then the alleged washer missing. look at the diagram that i posted on turbostangs. theres a thrust washers behind and in front of the case(or a needle bearing in the #9 position), along with snap rings that hold the output shaft firm in the case! unless your drive shaft is just a tad to long, pushing the output shaft forward on hard launch's. but its kind of hard to tell anything, but without having it in front of us it kind of hard to tell what the fuck is going on! we didnt remove or install youre trans. so we dont know! and that would cause it to push forward on all the internals in the trans tearing up all kinds of shit!

 

looks like you need a 3 pinion rear planet, drum and sun gear! from the pics you have posted! and hear is how much of a stand up guy i am. i have a stock c-4 sitting here i have been tryying to sell. COME FUCKING GET IT, AND USE THE HARD PARTS YOU NEED, AND THEN SHUT THE FUCK UP! and why not post the emails that you and mike have been sharing? sorry you couldnt wait for mike to get to your trans. you never stated you was under a deadline when you dropped it off! sory he had several larger jobs ahead of you! mike was more then willing to take care of you. but he wanted everything else out the way, before he got into your's. and since you know so much , why didnt you rebuild it? AND when I SAY IMO, doesnt mean mike shifflet or shifflet auto care share the same veiw's and opinions!

with the mileage, and drag strip pass's, and dyno pulls. if the fucking washer was missing, it would have made itself out alot ffaster then that

 

and heres some more of IMO. I dont like your mullet or your lambo doors. but opinions are like assholes! you should know the rest of that line!

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Thanks for this reply Rob. I never stated I was charged 900 from the shop you work at. If you read it. I said that I provided that cost 300. I was never told I got any kind of discount on parts. I have the bill right here and it states labor: $349.80 Parts: $225 and shop fees: $25.20 to be accurate. I was told the first time they sent the wrong parts. I only ran my mouth after being prevoked by you. I never stated any thing about the output shaft as it is perfect. My drive shaft has nothing to do with it if any thing I think it is a little short.

Thanks for the offer on your C4, but I couldn't accept it. You had nothing to do with building mine. Any way I should have all my new parts this week. The new parts will make it a full roller. You left out the 6 pinion front planet. The splines are screwed up in it also. It is being replaced with a 3 pinion roller front one with even the pinions having rollers unlike the 6 one. I never stated you weren't a stand up person.

You seemed to like the doors when I had the car there and talked how you had installed one yourself on some car. And I won't shut the fuck up. As long as someone posts here I will respond. If you hadn't been running off at the month on my thread about what you thought. All of this may not have happened. I don't see why you would cut a customers car or parts that your shop is working on in an open forum and not think that would piss them off. And opinions are like assholes and should be kept to themselves. I can give you the link where my parts are coming from if you like. They have some really nice stuff for C6's also.

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Thanks for this reply Rob. I never stated I was charged 900 from the shop you work at. If you read it. I said that I provided that cost 300. I was never told I got any kind of discount on parts. I have the bill right here and it states labor: $349.80 Parts: $225 and shop fees: $25.20 to be accurate. I was told the first time they sent the wrong parts. I only ran my mouth after being prevoked by you. I never stated any thing about the output shaft as it is perfect. My drive shaft has nothing to do with it if any thing I think it is a little short.

Thanks for the offer on your C4, but I couldn't accept it. You had nothing to do with building mine. Any way I should have all my new parts this week. The new parts will make it a full roller. You left out the 6 pinion front planet. The splines are screwed up in it also. It is being replaced with a 3 pinion roller front one with even the pinions having rollers unlike the 6 one. I never stated you weren't a stand up person.

You seemed to like the doors when I had the car there and talked how you had installed one yourself on some car. And I won't shut the fuck up. As long as someone posts here I will respond. If you hadn't been running off at the month on my thread about what you thought. All of this may not have happened. I don't see why you would cut a customers car or parts that your shop is working on in an open forum and not think that would piss them off. And opinions are like assholes and should be kept to themselves. I can give you the link where my parts are coming from if you like. They have some really nice stuff for C6's also.

 

Ok stupid. i dont like the doors. jeff was the one talking to you about installing a set and liking yours. hell you didnt even know who you was talking to , and we all have name tags.

and im sigging among the three sites where you was talking about your output shaft moreing and your speedo jumping, unless i mess reread someone else's post.

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and im sigging among the three sites where you was talking about your output shaft moreing and your speedo jumping, unless i mess reread someone else's post.

Yes, your right about that. The speedometer did go all crazy as soon as I started driving the car after it was built. Still the driveshaft is for sure not too long. My speedometer did work correctly with the c4 before it was built. I didn't care about not having it work. I just used the rpm to know my speed.

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mines as flat as a table (well till i hit the button). but props none the less!

thats why im building a c-6. it will laugh at what im going to throw at it, and ask for more. main reason im not going to run a C-4, that and its alot cheaper!

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Mod motor has a different bell housing pattern than a SB Ford doesn't it?

yes he has the ultra bell or the pa one....(with 2 missing bolts none the less at the pump) brian the c-4 has a removeable bell. thats why you can bolt one behind almost any ford motor out. (unlike our c-6's)

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yes he has the ultra bell or the pa one....(with 2 missing bolts none the less at the pump) brian the c-4 has a removeable bell. thats why you can bolt one behind almost any ford motor out. (unlike our c-6's)

Yes, just like all the others running a C4 behind the modular and none of them have had their C4 break like mine just did. Alot of them are making alot more power than I am. When they do break it is usually the input shaft that breaks. Here is a car running a super comp C4 and the only problem he has had so far was the torque converter. He runs around 30psi. I wonder what his torque curve looks like with that instant boost.

http://forums.modulardepot.com/media-center/106796-recent-video.html

Here is another one but his is a 4v. He also runs a C4 from PA like mine. I know shortly after he had it. he broke the input shaft. His broke like my 1st one did. Playing on the street spinning the tires in 2nd then shifted to 3rd and BAM! Broken inputshaft. We both learned our lesson on doing that. He lives in cincinnatti. He is a master welder and built the turbo kit on his car himself. There are videos and lots of pics of his build up.

http://forums.modulardepot.com/modular-depot-shop/97752-worlds-quickest-na-98-cobra-now-has-turbo.html

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C-4 input shaft, with a adapter to mate it too a c-6

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/C-6%20pics/100_1791.jpg

 

stock c-6 shafts have went 8.0's and they do make hardened ones!

only thing you gain buy running a c-4 is less rotating mass(ie weaker parts)

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your working with a week ass trans! and the next time it breaks im going to laugh!

 

and i dont care how pissed off you are! it intertains me!

 

and i know all about broader performance! who do you think i had mike call when he was doing your trans! he was on the phone with them for 2 hours, asking if what you had was going to hold up! they are also the ones that talked me out of using a c-4.

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