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Started on my Home Theatre Room


mrblunt

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Sofa Express was running a crazy going out of business sale today and I basically stole a nice set of home theatre seats from them. Retail is 1500 per set, I walked out the door from a little over 500. They are a nice microsuede fabric, really soft and comfy. Now all I need to pickup is a new projector and some B&W's and I'll be set. I'm looking for a PT-AX100u for the right price. I think the B&W front speakers may have already been scored, I should know this week. I need to get the room framed and some walls up but that stuff is pretty easy.

 

Anyhow, I think these seats are a good start. For the price I couldn't pass them up.

 

http://www.columbusdsm.com/Chadspics/TheatreSeats.JPG

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Looks like it will turn out nicely!

I'd be glad to come over and spill some pop on the floor and litter popcorn all over the place for that true movie theatre feel. For an extra fee I can turn my cell phone on high and talk loudly from the second row.

 

But seriously that room should turn out pretty cool, nice find.

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Went and checked out the sale at one of the locations down here, and they were pretty well picked clean... Nice deal on those! My living room furniture is that material and it seems to hold up great. I've had mine for over 2 years and it still looks pretty much new.
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There were none left that I know of. I called Polaris, Tuttle, Sawmill and a few stores out east. They all said they had been sold out for a while. I just completely lucked out on these. Too bad I didn't get them a few weeks ago, i'd have one hell of a national championship party here :)

 

Time to start collecting 2x4's.

 

I went looking at materials today. I'm getting pushed in a few different directions and I don't really know which way to pursue. I've been told that I could use 2x2's to save some square footage, and maybe a few bucks in the process. My brother-in-law says not to use them and to definitely use 2x4's and 3/8 or 1/4 drywall. The walls are not load bearing so they would just be to enclose the home theatre and maybe a utility room downstairs. The rest would likely be just to cover up the crappy basement brick. I'm open to suggestions.

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nice! makes me wish i still had all my gear.

 

if you're looking to score some good deals on AV equipment, check out http://www.audiogon.com i've bought and sold many things on there...lots of good deals.

 

I always check out audiogon, there is some great deals on that place. Pretty much everyone selling their equipment there is an audiophile so you know its been well cared for and is top notch.

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I went looking at materials today. I'm getting pushed in a few different directions and I don't really know which way to pursue. I've been told that I could use 2x2's to save some square footage, and maybe a few bucks in the process. My brother-in-law says not to use them and to definitely use 2x4's and 3/8 or 1/4 drywall. The walls are not load bearing so they would just be to enclose the home theatre and maybe a utility room downstairs. The rest would likely be just to cover up the crappy basement brick. I'm open to suggestions.

 

Is space going to be an issue? Do you hvac through out the basement? Key your eyes open for a nice dehumidifier. Theatre seating is well worth it. Do everything right the first time and make sure you make it easy to upgrade i.e. wires, speaker mounting, and access to the rear of the tv and receivers.

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Is space going to be an issue? Do you hvac through out the basement? Key your eyes open for a nice dehumidifier. Theatre seating is well worth it. Do everything right the first time and make sure you make it easy to upgrade i.e. wires, speaker mounting, and access to the rear of the tv and receivers.

 

Spacing really isn't a big issue but I do want to keep the most living space possible and since the walls aren't load bearing I was told that a 2x2 would be a good alternative to a 2x4. I have a decent sized dehumidifier down there already. I do have duct work that is on the left size of that room running along the ceiling. I figured I'd box it in with drywall or something to get it out of sight.

 

I've been told by a few people that I should Drylock the basement first before starting on the framing. Does anyone know after I do the drylock is there a need for any type of a moisture barrier before I frame? Someone recommended it to me but I've never been involved with a project like this so i'd appreciate any suggestions.

 

I'm jealous b/c I wanted to head to CES this year but work had me by the balls. I heard it was pretty good this year, hopefully I'll make it out there next year. The projector I'm looking at I've seen in action already. A friend of mine has it in his basement and I was very impressed by the quality of the picture. They have definitely come a long way in the past few years.

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I've been told by a few people that I should Drylock the basement first before starting on the framing. Does anyone know after I do the drylock is there a need for any type of a moisture barrier before I frame? Someone recommended it to me but I've never been involved with a project like this so i'd appreciate any suggestions.

 

My uncle professionally finishes basements for a living, mostly in Dublin. I worked for him for about a year in totally when I was in high school. As long as the basement didn't have any water issues, which most modern ones with a properly designed sump system shouldn't this is what he did. He just painted the walls with some water resistant paint. A few coats of it until it's nice and coated. This will just keep the condensation off of the walls so it doesn't get on anything back there. If your basement is built right and you have a good sump system that is all you should ever see anyways, and that's probably just because of temp differences mostly. He's way past what I would call a perfectionist too. I never worked with him anywhere that had even the slightest water issues, and I'm guessing if he saw anything he would have just turned the job down anyways, so I can't comment on that. I can find out the paint he uses if you would like me to.

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My uncle professionally finishes basements for a living, mostly in Dublin. I worked for him for about a year in totally when I was in high school. As long as the basement didn't have any water issues, which most modern ones with a properly designed sump system shouldn't this is what he did. He just painted the walls with some water resistant paint. A few coats of it until it's nice and coated. This will just keep the condensation off of the walls so it doesn't get on anything back there. If your basement is built right and you have a good sump system that is all you should ever see anyways, and that's probably just because of temp differences mostly. He's way past what I would call a perfectionist too. I never worked with him anywhere that had even the slightest water issues, and I'm guessing if he saw anything he would have just turned the job down anyways, so I can't comment on that. I can find out the paint he uses if you would like me to.

 

If it wouldn't be too much trouble I'd appreciate you looking into the paint for me. My house is only a year old and I don't currently have any water issues nor do I anticipate any for quite some time :) It has a sump pump system with a soon to be setup battery backup.

 

Would you recommend framing with 2x4's or i've heard of using 1x3's and it coming out just as good.

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If it wouldn't be too much trouble I'd appreciate you looking into the paint for me. My house is only a year old and I don't currently have any water issues nor do I anticipate any for quite some time :) It has a sump pump system with a soon to be setup battery backup.

 

Would you recommend framing with 2x4's or i've heard of using 1x3's and it coming out just as good.

 

I just read this and obviously haven't gotten a chance to ask him yet, so I'll ask him that then too. He always worked with 2X4's but he was working in basements bigger than most of our houses so space wasn't an issue. I worked with him once when he was enclosing a patio and he used something smaller. I would want to say yes, if it were me I would probably do it without even thinking about it. Like you said, they aren't load bearing. Keep in mind you'll need space behind the walls anyways to keep everything square. I think you can't do it flush anywhere because of fire code too, but don't quote me on that one. I know he always had a minimum clearance on any point in the inside of the wall to the brick, it wasn't a ton, but it was something, and I want to say it's for some fire code, but it's been a while too.

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I've been reading up on this some more and it's recommended to put a 1/2 Styrofoam board against the wall then 1/2 " clearance between your studs and that foam. Since that board is around 11 dollars for a 4x8 piece its gonna add some significant cost to the project. Still not sure if I'm gonna use it or if its even necessary. I think I'm gonna slap 2 coats of drylock on the walls, then use a plumb bob and a chalk line to get things true. I looked at using steel studs b/c i was told they are nice to work with and about 25 cents cheaper than wood but after a trip to Home Depot today and finding out they are 4.85 a piece that idea went out the window.

 

Damned evolving countries like China and India driving up the price of construction materials. I should have started this a while ago.

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Plum bob works fine. You can always find one of the straight 2X4's (or whatever you use) and use a level. This is what we always did. Go to some different points on the wall, level the 2X4, mark it. Unless you have poured walls you will probably see high spots in the wall. Then check it out with a chalk line, or a laser, don't mark it yet, you are just checking to see where the 'highest' point on the whole wall because this will be where your wall is closet to the brick. Chalk line may be cheaper and it's a 'permanent' mark, but it takes two people. Hoping this makes sense, seems like you are getting it. My uncle never did the foam thing, but he always insulated, I'm guessing that's what the foam is for. Oh, use treated wood for the bottoms, use tapcons to put them in the floor. I'll post a little more later, but off to Ski Patrol now. PM me if you want and we can chat over the phone, or hell, I could even come out and take a look and give you some ideas. If you need help when you are building it too, just let me know. I don't know drywall very well, but a little, but everything else I've had a decent amount of experience with.
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