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Going to a full E85 conversion on the Z06


LPFSTheFett

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Going out of town this coming weekend, so no better time then now to convert the car over to E85. IPS is replacing all the pumps, lines, fuel injectors and a fuel injector controller to run E85.

 

For those considering the same thing, here is a really interesting post about it.

 

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33448

 

I'll give updates as it progresses. I'm really excited to be able to run this stuff and have the engine and exhaust run cleaner and colder!

 

I just wish I knew how much colder the engine will run. The TT kit makes my car run 230's in stop and go traffic, I'd love to see it closer to 200.

 

Anybody else on here running E85? How do you like it?

 

Jason

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(Penetration level of)

Aluminum < 2 Mils/year up to 180°F

Brass < 20 Mils/year up to 210°F

Bronze < 20 Mils/year up to 400°F

Carbon Steel < 20 Mils/year up to 230°F

Copper < 20 Mils/year up to 110°F

Nickel < 20 Mils/year up to 200°F

Type 304 S.S. < 20 Mils/year up to 210°F

Type 316 S.S. < 20 Mils/year up to 420°F

Titanium < 2 Mils/year up to 200°F

 

1 Mil = 0.001 inch

 

This is at 100% Ethanol with temperatures listed. The two larger dangers associated but not often mentioned: (a) ethanol doesn't play well between dissimilar metals and (b) ethanol can contain larger amounts of water, possibly speeding/causing corrosion to penetrable metals.

 

Regarding contact with rubber, very few manufacturers use natural rubber (post 1985) when DOT/EPA/etc standardized 10% Ethanol compatibility. Most orings, gaskets, etc won't degrade but rather swell. Delphi was having huge issues with this in their FFV's fuel pumps: the seals would expand causing all of tolerances to be off, pump still functions, but doesn't pump anything.

 

I think it's wise for automakers to be cautious (there are saftey issues with alcohol based fuels vs gasoline), but haven't heard of anyone whose ride exploded when refueling or when on the road. Personally, I see it is a poor man's race fuel. I've had great results with it on my own and clients' cars.

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Regarding contact with rubber, very few manufacturers use natural rubber (post 1985) when DOT/EPA/etc standardized 10% Ethanol compatibility. Most orings, gaskets, etc won't degrade but rather swell. Delphi was having huge issues with this in their FFV's fuel pumps: the seals would expand causing all of tolerances to be off, pump still functions, but doesn't pump anything.

 

also with the FFV 5.3L engine intake gaskets. the new green ones are suposed to be ok but the orange ones suck.

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Why do you need to change so many things? Were your injectors on the limit already? Why the lines too? Let us know how it turns out good luck.

 

The injectors were 100% maxed out at the 934rwhp pull I did. We could scale them and perhaps get a little closer to 1,000. However, E85 requires about 30% more fuel so they will be really capped out then. Same goes for the fuel pump. Each pump is rated at like 600hp on gas, so figure that's probably 450-500 on E85.

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i think that car has been in the shop more than it has been driven. that would drive me nuts. are they doing it to marks car too?

 

It does suck it's been in the shop a lot, but it's really the nature of the beast. We've replaced everything in the car and so we are trouble shooting numerous things.

 

The only reason the car is in the shop now is because I'm going out of town next weekend, and If I give them the car now, they have 2-3 weeks to complete the changes I've requested. I was going to take it to the track Wednesday to Trails, but the axles poped out. I think axles are too short or something, so we put my stock ones back in and shipped out the other ones to have looked at.

 

As far as fueling options, I had 3 choices to run 1krwhp. 1. e85 2. 100 octaned unleaded (might work) or 3. run a meth kit.

 

The meth kit adds another 30#'s to the front of an already weight challenged corvette. If the pump goes out or I run out of meth, then I could potentially cause problems for the car.

 

The 100 octane is only available in a couple spots in Ohio plus the fact I'd have to run my tank completely out of 94 to fill up with 100 octane for track days. Then you do have the added cost of $2.00 per gallon.

 

Or do e85 which may also help with the car running warm. Just seems like the e85 is the way to go. And if I'm unhappy with what I get out of the e85, I can easily switch back to regular gas. If I wanted more HP then the 934 I got last time, I had to make all these changes anyway.

 

Jason

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To further reduce temps, are all the exhaust components "Jet-Hot" (ceramic) coated?

 

This winter. I was going to get it done now, but it takes 2-3 weeks + shipping the parts to and from and I wasn't willing to wait 3-4 weeks to have this complete in the middle of the racing season.

 

I will 100% be doing this though. The coating also helps with turbo spool up, so it's multifunctional. I think it's a real shame the kit doesn't come coated from APS.

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Jet Hot use to have a really good product. Seems about 5-6 years ago their coatings have gotten a lot thinner to save on costs and in the process their quality has went down considerablly. I'm not sure who IPS goes through, but they send their 3000GT kits there, so that's where I'm going to send mine. I'm going to do black because I heard it has the best heat rating(about 1400degrees)
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just read that whole thread. saying you'd have to retune the car depending on what time of the year it is. Because E85 can be E70 during the winter because they reduce the amount of ethanol due to it abosbing water. Which really isn't a huge deal as I don't drive in the winter and more gas in the mixture means the car would just run richer. So much to think about!
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sounds like a good project..car will be sick like always and isnt there any companies that do header coatings and stuff local? cant you get high temp powder coat somewhere? I am looking into getting some things "jet hotted" as well

 

Just paint the headers yourself... Most of the high heat paints have ceramic properties now anyway... if thats not enough, header wrap. Works fine and has a great look if you do it right.

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Just paint the headers yourself... Most of the high heat paints have ceramic properties now anyway... if thats not enough, header wrap. Works fine and has a great look if you do it right.

 

 

I used that VHT ceramic header paint on my bbk long tubes and it looks great but starting to have a few heatspots I am redoing my engine in the winter and was just wondering but who knows ill prob just go header wrap

 

 

Sorry for the thread jack

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Going out of town this coming weekend, so no better time then now to convert the car over to E85. IPS is replacing all the pumps, lines, fuel injectors and a fuel injector controller to run E85.

 

For those considering the same thing, here is a really interesting post about it.

 

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33448

 

I'll give updates as it progresses. I'm really excited to be able to run this stuff and have the engine and exhaust run cleaner and colder!

 

I just wish I knew how much colder the engine will run. The TT kit makes my car run 230's in stop and go traffic, I'd love to see it closer to 200.

 

Anybody else on here running E85? How do you like it?

 

Jason

 

i tunned my vette for e85 and ran it for 2 months but im poor so i still had stock injectors so i couldn't go WOT :(

i actually had to increase my VE table about 40%

 

why do you need to run an injector controller when you can control everything you need with the tuning software. i hope it's not because the software maxes out at 63lb/hr because there is an easy way around that, or are you going to be running 16 injectors?

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