Jump to content

And so it begins


koolrayz

Recommended Posts

Finally got off my ass and spent the weekend in the shop

Should be able to get the block stripped down and to the machine shop in the next week or so. The plan is to just over bore it another .020. I needed to buy some different pistons anyway.

Still havent looked into what failed in the trans yet.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine8.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine7.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine6.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine5.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine4.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine3.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine2.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/koolrayz/08engine1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 305
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

why did you pull the motor? did you blowed it up?

 

It was running OK when I pulled it. There where 2 cylinders scuffed that dont test great on the bleed down or the compression test. What i really need is a different compression ratio and cam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why did you remove the cover and the radiator, Ray? They come out nice and easy keeping all the together.

Thats correct I gutted the front end for reasons other than dropping the engine.

 

Don't pull them once you put ARP studs in, the passenger side only comes out by gouging a hole in the heater core area with the corner of the head.

Ask me how I know and what black duct tape comes in handy for.

??? I have changed headgaskets a couple times with studs, and had no trouble???

An air ratchet helps alot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

F-bodies and 4v Mustangs. The f-bodies pretty much require you remove the heads to pull from the top.

I haven't pulled an LS1's motor out of an F-body, but I've done and LT1 both from the top and the bottom. Honestly, it takes about the same time/effort either way, and you can keep the intake and heads on pulling it from the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't pull them once you put ARP studs in, the passenger side only comes out by gouging a hole in the heater core area with the corner of the head.

 

Ask me how I know and what black duct tape comes in handy for.

You LIE!!! I got mmine off and on piece of cake! I guess I might have a bit of experience from seeing why you owned black duct tape :-p

 

loosen DS motor mount and its gravy now i cant find all the motoviation to put it back together....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...