Ef8sirJunkie Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 From what i understand you want a good Break in oil not just any cheap stuff off the shelf. was told to me by a good engine builder here in columbus you need something with zinc in it such as rotella T. there are other companies such as Brad Pen break in oil aswell. im not an engine builder but i have talked to a few good ones and i think proper engine break in will be most important. why spend 10k on a engine and put some cheap off brand in it. also if you are to say shell rotella t is some cheap off brand you will be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted November 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 well i'll read the daton sleeves or call them and see what they will recommend on the break it but right now I want the break in to be done correctly so when i do turbo it the rings well be seated correctly and then let the fun begin lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted November 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows: · full throttle high torque power useage should be limited and never be used until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes. · from 0-500 miles, do not exceed 4000 rpm. · from 500-1000, do not exceed 6000 rpm. · over 1000 miles, no restrictions. Also, do not run at the same speed for extended periods during break-in. Make certain the engine is operating at proper coolant temperature and oil pressure. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Make necessary changes if required (radiator, fan, tuning) to get the engine to run in the proper temperature range. We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaddyBuiltRacing Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 Im breaking my gsr in with Rotella per Mike Laskey's recomendation, he's the one who built the motor. I have heard 20mins to allow rings to seat, never stay at one consistant rpm while driving, allow revs to drop by themselves ect... Many people will say "break it in like its going to be driven"..yeah if you plan on changing motors every weekend like most race teams do then sure beat the piss out of it asap. If you want a motor to last you should be somewhat easy on it at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ef8sirJunkie Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Im breaking my gsr in with Rotella per Mike Laskey's recomendation, he's the one who built the motor. I have heard 20mins to allow rings to seat, never stay at one consistant rpm while driving, allow revs to drop by themselves ect... Many people will say "break it in like its going to be driven"..yeah if you plan on changing motors every weekend like most race teams do then sure beat the piss out of it asap. If you want a motor to last you should be somewhat easy on it at first. Josh i have herd the same as Laskey has told you. witch since i herd t from a few sources that have built long lasting high hp hondas i will take their advice. here is a link that an engine builder told me to read over. he said alot of people swear by what this guy says. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and here is a quote from him What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ?? The Short Answer: Run it Hard ! Why ?? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. Like i said i am not an engine builder but im getting the same answer from multiple sources dealing with my type of car. So i dont want to see this turn into a Pissing match on the forum i am just trying to help someone out. like stated before get ahold of a trusted engine builder and ask their advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted98gst Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 From what i understand you want a good Break in oil not just any cheap stuff off the shelf. was told to me by a good engine builder here in columbus you need something with zinc in it such as rotella T. there are other companies such as Brad Pen break in oil aswell. im not an engine builder but i have talked to a few good ones and i think proper engine break in will be most important. why spend 10k on a engine and put some cheap off brand in it. also if you are to say shell rotella t is some cheap off brand you will be wrong. LOL there is a link, I just posted a few weeks back where they broke down the 12 top oils and you would be so surprised what really is in the oils, Cold hard fact AMSoil is the best oil and best proven oil you can get. Did you know alot of the cheap oils have zinc in it? For zinc to work as a anti-wear agent you need zinc to mix with phosphorous. quaker was one of the worst companys on the testing and had lots of zinc in the oil. Engine builder or not there going to tell you what they want you to buy or what they think. ( which im not saying is wrong) most the time when breaking in the motor you add zinc in the oil with phosphorous. Im sorry but I just thought it was funny you said you need a oil with zinc because all oil has fucking zinc in it. Here is the fact for zinc in motors oils synthetic and non synthetic "The combination of zinc and phosphorous is limited to a maximum of 800 parts per million in API/SM classification, which is the latest classification that came out in 2004. " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted98gst Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Here is some things of a few oil sites that advertise what they claim to do. “You can put zinc in the oil but it won’t act as an anti-wear agent until you add the phosphorous,” Any oil that you get that says API or ILSAC GF-4 contains a limited amount of zinc and phosphorous, and for most racing applications, that’s not what you want,” It is for this reason some engine builders have switched to diesel oil for break-ins as some of these formulations are known to have higher levels of zinc. “The current diesel oil spec is CJ-4 is limited to 1,200 parts per million (ppm), so it does have 400 ppm more than API pass car oil but it’s only marginally better. A lot of people get mislead hunting down the oil with the highest ppm, as if it were the Holy Grail, and it really isn’t,” Funny thing is that alot of the big race shops like titan, ams, rb sports use diesel oil for breaking in engines that are 100k 1300hp engines so its all who you want to follow or believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Wow thats alot of different break-in options. I think i'll call darton and see what they would do and let them know what rings in using and what oil to break it in with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ef8sirJunkie Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Boosted i see you are a very smart individual and no i didnt know all that about oil. I thank you for informing me i always like to learn new things. Roy do you know where the motor was built at the shop not just the sleeve manufacturer? I would talk to both darton and the company who persaonaly assembled the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted98gst Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Boosted i see you are a very smart individual and no i didnt know all that about oil. I thank you for informing me i always like to learn new things. Roy do you know where the motor was built at the shop not just the sleeve manufacturer? I would talk to both darton and the company who persaonaly assembled the motor. I am def not a pro engine builder or any of that. I just have built many motors and I just do what ive been helped with. There are many ways to do it and many options in oil. There are only a handful of oil that is really above the comp. Just like anyone else the best bet is read up on info and listen to what guys who build specific engines say to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integranator Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Broke my fresh motor in on the dyno. Only way to do it. Made 535 fresh out of the box @18psi. Break-in Procedure: Start with reg non-syn oil prime system to get oil to head tune idle, let warm turn off, change oil, check for anything nasty Start car, tune, run hog wild I've had two fully built motors, ran perfectly for over multiple seasons, over 500whp daily'd, if you have any questions I can help ya out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted November 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Broke my fresh motor in on the dyno. Only way to do it. Made 535 fresh out of the box @18psi. Break-in Procedure: Start with reg non-syn oil prime system to get oil to head tune idle, let warm turn off, change oil, check for anything nasty Start car, tune, run hog wild I've had two fully built motors, ran perfectly for over multiple seasons, over 500whp daily'd, if you have any questions I can help ya out What motors have you had I'm going lsvtec and i'm trying to figuer out what ecu to start with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosted98gst Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Broke my fresh motor in on the dyno. Only way to do it. Made 535 fresh out of the box @18psi. Break-in Procedure: Start with reg non-syn oil prime system to get oil to head tune idle, let warm turn off, change oil, check for anything nasty Start car, tune, run hog wild I've had two fully built motors, ran perfectly for over multiple seasons, over 500whp daily'd, if you have any questions I can help ya out This is the way ive done it I use reg non syn cheap oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integranator Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 What motors have you had I'm going lsvtec and i'm trying to figuer out what ecu to start with? Start with anything you can tune with. Thats the key to a good break in. Most people do the whole "i'm just babying it for the next 3k miles" blah blah-- its only because they can't afford the tune yet. Just get a chipped ecu that will keep your timing conservative and a/f's consistant. I first had a 2.0l benson block ls/vtec setup on ecutune, then hondata. Now my new motor has s300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted November 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 Start with anything you can tune with. Thats the key to a good break in. Most people do the whole "i'm just babying it for the next 3k miles" blah blah-- its only because they can't afford the tune yet. Just get a chipped ecu that will keep your timing conservative and a/f's consistant. I first had a 2.0l benson block ls/vtec setup on ecutune, then hondata. Now my new motor has s300. I have a chipped ecu fro my other car but if i wanted to I could get the car tuned today if i wanted to lol.. I just dont want to mess anything up on a fresh built motor but from what i've been reading and told I might just break it in on the dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ef8sirJunkie Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 Is your chipped ecu a vtec ecu? if not it can be converted to a vtec ecu with the right components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted November 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2009 I have a p28 ecu moew and getting ready to have it chipped. I have a bad ass tuner that will set me up a base tune and just drive the car all motor for now until I get enough cash and research on what turbo I will use. But i can't wait even though it's winter I'm still going to put the car together and on nice days like today I'll take here out and play.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaddyBuiltRacing Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 So wheres the pics? A build thread is supposed to have lots of pictures, so far you have failed me Roy you have 1 damn picture lol. Get on it son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattsv8 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 u built the honda's but one day we will convert you to the dark side!. cant run 4cyls. needing a 250 shot to spool a 88mm is not cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integranator Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 u built the honda's but one day we will convert you to the dark side!. cant run 4cyls. needing a 250 shot to spool a 88mm is not cool. :sigh: Like most muscle car guys, I don't think you have any idea what you're takling about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRTurbo04 Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 :sigh: Like most muscle car guys, I don't think you have any idea what you're takling about. lol not knowing what hes talkign about or not his truck runs 9s so ide say he knows a few things an is allowed to talk a little smack roy man any updates on the new setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvfastcarz Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 No it's not i race a bunch of turbo civics bikes and that supposedly 460hp rsx that orange one you worked on and blew is doors off and i race jeffro lol His buddies told me it made 530 or so and I was begging the guy to turn the boost down before we raced so I would have a chance. He said no and proceeded to talk smack, so he got his ass handed to him by Roy and I at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 (edited) Update right now just got about 3k miles on it so I'm In the market for a 700hp intercooler 1000cc injectors a heavy duty clutch. One that will hold atleast 450tq. I need a big aeromotive fuel pump. I need a LSD real bad fuck the one wheel wonders. Looking at a turbo that will be good for street strip Edited December 19, 2009 by Comebackkid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 project thread...with no pics...fail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comebackkid Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Just it not ready once it's turbo then I'll take pics or bring it up to a dyno night lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.