Make your own Battery Tender/Charger

[12oclocker]

12- i like the staircase lights w. touch button

thanks,

here is an update of my battery charger build process...

.....

before etch...

after toner transfered...

after etch, final PCB before drilling the holes and mounting components...

I revised the schematic a little bit (changed how the LED's work)

the PCB layout design...

the PCB design with silk screen, no jumpers, parts neatly lined up, single sided board...

disregard the text that says LM371, its already been fixed to LM317, lol

Edited February 15, 2009 by 12oclocker

[flounder]

really nice... I love projects... Im trying to get my hands on an oscilloscope right now. I really dont need it but I may be able to get it for free.

[that dude]

thanks,

here is an update of my battery charger build process...

.....

before etch...

after etch...

final PCB before drilling the holes and mounting components...

I revised the schematic a little bit (changed how the LED's work)

the PCB layout design...

the PCB design with silk screen, no jumpers, parts neatly lined up, single sided board...

disregard the text that says LM371, its already been fixed to LM317, lol

WTF????

[jagr]

12, i know you are some sort of evolved bipedal so i apologize if you dont understand my human talk. But really, What planet are you from?

[NinjaNick]

I've known 12oclocker for a long time and he always makes me laugh sometimes when he tells me shit he's up to, because he is THE SMARTEST dude I've ever met so far. I always listen when he preaches because it's like he can do anything..lol. No shit!

His programming knowledge is incredible too. I swear he knows every language out there.

Edited February 15, 2009 by NinjaNick

[EagleCock]

I took a science class once...it was horrible!

[NinjaNick]

@ WhoDey.

[wolfman]

thanks,

here is an update of my battery charger build process...

.....

before etch...

after etch...

final PCB before drilling the holes and mounting components...

I revised the schematic a little bit (changed how the LED's work)

the PCB layout design...

the PCB design with silk screen, no jumpers, parts neatly lined up, single sided board...

disregard the text that says LM371, its already been fixed to LM317, lol

Awesome work man! I love doing this kind of stuff in my free time, too! I don't know enough to design a bunch of stuff like you though. I had a quarter of basic electronics lab in college and still have the book so maybe I'll pick it up and read it.

For now, I just use other people's designs. lol The biggest thing I've done was putting together a fuel injection controller for my jeep. My next project is going to be building a programmable aquarium controller. So, I'm interested in how you etch your boards and all that jazz.

P.S. When are you going to be design a 'Power Commander' for us?

[12oclocker]

Awesome work man! I love doing this kind of stuff in my free time, too! I don't know enough to design a bunch of stuff like you though. I had a quarter of basic electronics lab in college and still have the book so maybe I'll pick it up and read it.

For now, I just use other people's designs. lol The biggest thing I've done was putting together a fuel injection controller for my jeep. My next project is going to be building a programmable aquarium controller. So, I'm interested in how you etch your boards and all that jazz.

P.S. When are you going to be design a 'Power Commander' for us?

Here is the board process I developed through experimenting, it works really well...

1) Prep PCB with fine steel wool, oil from your fingers will cause toner to not stick.

2) Print on laser printer, Cut out design. (Use HP Glossy doublesided Brocure Paper)

(HP 4L Laser Printers work the best, because the toner sticks better)

3) Position printed design over PCB, run through laminater 5 times.

the laminater will lightly fuse the toner to the board.

4) Using a Iron set to linen, place the PCB on top a brick or metal pan, paper side up,

place iron on top of the PCB, put pressure on it for 3 minutes.

(this is what fuses the toner to the copper)

5) Place damp warm folded rag over the PCB,

and quickly put pressure on it with a brick or something flat and heavy for 60 seconds.

(this is an important step that presoaks the paper without letting the edges curl)

6) Now place PCB in room temperature water for at least 1 hour (the longer the better).

(if the paper curls and rips a trace off, you didn't do step 4 and 5 correctly)

7) Carefully peel the dissolved paper from the PCB board. If any traces broke, then you didn't

apply enough heat or pressure during step 4. start over at beginning.

8) Etch board.

9) Clean toner off with steel wool.

[wolfman]

Here is the board process I developed through experimenting, it works really well...

1) Prep PCB with fine steel wool, oil from your fingers will cause toner to not stick.

2) Print on laser printer, Cut out design. (Use HP Glossy doublesided Brocure Paper)

(HP 4L Laser Printers work the best, because the toner sticks better)

3) Position printed design over PCB, run through laminater 5 times.

the laminater will lightly fuse the toner to the board.

4) Using a Iron set to linen, place the PCB on top a brick or metal pan, paper side up,

place iron on top of the PCB, put pressure on it for 3 minutes.

(this is what fuses the toner to the copper)

5) Place damp warm folded rag over the PCB,

and quickly put pressure on it with a brick or something flat and heavy for 60 seconds.

(this is an important step that presoaks the paper without letting the edges curl)

6) Now place PCB in room temperature water for at least 1 hour (the longer the better).

(if the paper curls and rips a trace off, you didn't do step 4 and 5 correctly)

7) Carefully peel the dissolved paper from the PCB board. If any traces broke, then you didn't

apply enough heat or pressure during step 4. start over at beginning.

8) Etch board.

9) Clean toner off with steel wool.

Whoa...that's awesome. I've been dragging my ass on my project b/c of the cost of etching the boards. Thanks man!

[12oclocker]

Whoa...that's awesome. I've been dragging my ass on my project b/c of the cost of etching the boards. Thanks man!

no problem, steps 4 and 5 are key process steps. once you got those down you'll make a perfect board every time.

if you burn the paper during step 4, you have the iron set to hot, slightly trim the temp back, hottest you an get without burning it is the perfect temp. when applying pressure, just use moderate pressure with the iron, about equal to the weight of 2 bricks.

Step 5 is very important, its best to position the folded damp rag UNDER a brick, then quickly squish it down on the board, and put AS MUCH PRESSURE AS POSSIBLE on the brick with your body. your basically trying to soak the paper on the board with lots of pressure, to keep the paper from curling up (because curling will rip the traces off) after about 60 seconds. once the paper is soaked under pressure, it will not curl off, and its safe to drop the board in some water to finish the paper dissolving.

[12oclocker]

Final product...

[flounder]

Looks great 12 oclocker

[Goldie]

I wish I had any fucking clue as to what I was looking at.

[12oclocker]

Revised schematic, added current adjusting capability, and better short circuit protection, as well as better battery reversal protection....

F2 can use an auto resetting board mount fuse, or standard glass fuse.

[flounder]

Good call on the safety features. Hell, I think the most expensive part in the entire design in the transformer. Do you have a local electronics shop that has a good stock or do you order most of your stuff online? Also, what program are you using for design, testing and PCP board layout. I used to use PSpice frequently but havent messed with circuits in quite some time.

[12oclocker]

Good call on the safety features. Hell, I think the most expensive part in the entire design in the transformer. Do you have a local electronics shop that has a good stock or do you order most of your stuff online? Also, what program are you using for design, testing and PCP board layout. I used to use PSpice frequently but havent messed with circuits in quite some time.

digikey or mcm electronics in dayton have the best prices on parts and stuff.

Im using ExpressPCB software, its a free program, simple to use and has all the features I need. I like it better than the paid programs I was using.

[xtremef4i]

Nice work Brooks. By the way, I think I passed you on our way to Dinner. you were going North on Dorset and we were going south. It was around the Rt 718 and Dorset intersection.

[NinjaNick]

Nice work Brooks. By the way, I think I passed you on our way to Dinner. you were going North on Dorset and we were going south. It was around the Rt 718 and Dorset intersection.

Stalker.

[xtremef4i]

Stalker.

If I didnt think you were cool, I would give you negative rep for that

[Fonzie]

I wish I had any fucking clue as to what I was looking at.

VERY impressive stuff!! Rep to you

Twelve.....I think we need to change your screen name to MacGyver!

Hey....My laptop needs a new battery. You think you can whip one up for me from your spare parts bin???

Edited February 18, 2009 by Fonzie

[12oclocker]

thanks guys...

here are the new PCB board layouts with the new protection circuit and current adjust...

no jumpers, I got all the capacitors, transistors, and diodes aligned same direction for simple assembly.

Edited February 18, 2009 by 12oclocker

[12oclocker]

Nice work Brooks. By the way, I think I passed you on our way to Dinner. you were going North on Dorset and we were going south. It was around the Rt 718 and Dorset intersection.

Was I in the Tacoma? Probably did, lol, I love that Tacoma!

[4DAIVI PAI2K5]

I wish I had any fucking clue as to what I was looking at.

no kidding all im reading is

jsfjkas asdflksf hfj dshfskds hhkksl sjalkfjid i ds fjiojl asdkjifs

[gsxkat1100]

Since it has been a while since this, have there been any issues? What would someone charge me to make one of the boards?