Bam Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Ok here's the deal. I've got 2 weeks off for the holidays and I wanted to paint my basement. It's a block basement, and the 1/2 that I want painted is 12ft x 30ft, with about 6.5ft ceilings. I want the walls painted white, and the concrete floor painted grey. No ceiling paintwork. Obviously if I paint the walls first it doesn't matter if a mess is made as the floors are getting painted. I'm considering going two ways. 1) Hiring it out, I'm sure someone could use some extra money, and while I don't need a professional job, I do want it to be sellable -aka I'm putting the house for sale in the near future. 2) Doing it myself - I've rolled block before and didn't have the best luck, it seems that a lot of it splattered all over me and the roll didn't get in all the divots etc. So maybe a paint sprayer would be better? If I can't find anyone to do it for a decent price, I'll just do it myself and try and find a paint sprayer to use. PM me if interested. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTaylor751647545500 Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 What area of town? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 What area of town? Sorry, I live in Bexley. It's just east of downtown, west of Whitehall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1qwk767 Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Matt PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 A sprayer wont do any good on block which has not been rolled before. It is true that if the paint is sprayed it may make it easier to backroll which is the process of rolling the paint on after spraying which a block surface needs. Now with basement walls, you have 1 chance to seal the block with a product like drylok. If you choose not to do it and use paint, the opportunity is lost. Just something to consider. There are also block filler paints out there which do make it a little easier to work into block. Block which has never been painted is best done with a very thick nap roller 1"+, and dont try to skimp on the quality. A cheap roller will be destroyed alot faster than a good one due to the roughness of the block. Painted block for the first time is never fun and alot of people are surprised on the amount of time and material it takes. An average gallon of paint is good for something like 350 sq ft but that goes out the door when it comes to block. Also the natural effervescants(sp) in the block(depending on age) will cause cheap or inappropriate paint to peel either quickly or overtime. Now a floor surface should have a good quality floor enamel or epoxy. The bast way to ensure this sticks is to do a moisture test first which involves taping plastic to the floor and checking it over a period of days to see if water collects under the plastic. If it does you have moisture issues and paint may not sttick. Next acid wash the floor prior to painting. Its easy but the smell may be a bit rough for a few hrs so make sure the family is gone and you have a mask on. Of course these are methods for proper procedures and are just to give the op something to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark1647545493 Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Matt PM me. My best friend owns a painting company and will give you the hookup for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark1647545493 Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 oh and if you plan on doing it yourself, listen to what Jason says. Everything he said is spot on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Ok, thanks for the tips... The walls have been painted by previous owners...so does that mean I just should use normal paint and rolls? Or a thicker nap roll, if so, how thick? Any recommended brands of paint or anything. I'm heading to lowes to get some supplies. Or since its already been painted before can I spray the walls? The floor looks bare, maybe has a clear coating because it is really smooth and sometimes appears shiny. Still debating on doing it myself or getting someone to do it. Money is a factor, but honestly I despise painting because I always seem to have to do it again and again or whatever, lol. After painting an entire house a couple times due to color changes/whatever, i'm done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTQ B4U Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 If you decide to paint the walls, since they've been done once, you might just want to make sure you buy a good quality brand. Benny Moore at Majestic Paints has some that are mildew resistant. When you paint the floor, just make sure you etch it really good. I would do it twice to insure you break open all the pores. You noticed how they are shiny...well, you want exactly the opposite. Etch it twice and rinse it really really good. Let it dry and then use a good epoxy type paint. When we finished our entire lower level, I painted the laundry room and work room areas and they have held up 120%. Not one little mark or skuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 I'm heading to lowes to look at everything now, I will look into the acid wash stuff, never done/heard of that before. Would it be ok if my basement has no ventilation? I only have glass block windows... I was thinking about buying some KILZ paint for some spots of black stuff i have, i think its mold/mildew but I dunno. Unfortunately I admit that I never addressed it when I bought the house a few years back so I don't know how long its been there, but it doesn't look like its gotten worse, and most of it comes off with light scrubbing and cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 36" rollers ftw tho. shit can get painted in no time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 36" rollers ftw tho. shit can get painted in no time Although I have actually seen a 36" roller cover, it was a gimmick and I have never seen anyone actually use one. I typically use 18" rollers and this is the weapon of choice for most professional painters. And I have seen these wear guys out who use them everyday. But you cant beat them when it comes to speed. Acid washing is toxic so ventilate the best you can and make sure to not allow it to hit anything glass or metal. Always wear a respirator with appropriate filters when dealing with the acid and the mold. I wouldnt spray. You could have it done by the time you set up the sprayer, spray, clean out and then add mineral spirits to the sprayer to keep the seals from drying out. The shiny parts of the floor are probably whats still left of the floor from the original concrete sealant applied when the concrete was brand new. Mildex is an additive which can be added to almost any paint. Some paints come with it added typically kitchen and bath paints. Remember mold/mildew is a living organism and needs to be killed thoroughly or it will continue to live and grow. Like I said in the pm, to help prevent reoccurance, you should either have the foundation excavated and a rubber membrane applied(older homes did not have this typically) however this is costly, or regrade the exterior of the house so water flows away from the foundation. Clear gutters, inspect drains for blockages and make sure drain tiles havent caved in which is typical over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 my buddie had some big ass rollers..not sure if they was 36 but every bit 2 feet wide..atleast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 my buddie had some big ass rollers..not sure if they was 36 but every bit 2 feet wide..atleast 18" rollers is the standard for professionals. They have been out for years and up until recently could only be found in true paint stores and online. However home depots and places of the like now carry them. It looks about 2' long but in actuality they are 18". If he has something bigger I would bve surprised because the only company I have seen make anything larger was at a tradeshow in arizona and it was a gimmick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTQ B4U Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 I'm heading to lowes to look at everything now, I will look into the acid wash stuff, never done/heard of that before. Would it be ok if my basement has no ventilation? I only have glass block windows... You'll want to get some type of ventilation. It's not over powering, but you don't want to be in any area even with just paint without some type of airflow. Turn the heat off and open a window on the first floor just to get some fresh air rushing down the stairs. When you rinse it, use a mix of Ammonia and water, 50:50 ratio to neutralize the acid that may be left there. I was thinking about buying some KILZ paint for some spots of black stuff i have, i think its mold/mildew but I dunno. Unfortunately I admit that I never addressed it when I bought the house a few years back so I don't know how long its been there, but it doesn't look like its gotten worse, and most of it comes off with light scrubbing and cleaner. The black stuff is likely mold. Clean off the mold with JOMAX. It's made by the same folks that make BIN Primer....same type of stuff as KILZ. YOu want to not only kill it, but prevent it from leaching through the paint. It will if you don't remove it. It's likely done so on the existing paint thus why you see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 If you do acid wash the concrete you are best to follow these steps. Add acid at a ratio of 1 to 3. Always always always add the acid to the water. Spray or spread out the mix to the surface and what you want to see is bubbling. If theres is no bubbling then the concrete has a good sealant on it and is preventing the acid from working(mechanical means are used to remove sealant). If bubbles are present, use a stiff brush to work into concrete. Allow to sit up to 15 mins then netralize area with either ammonia or baking soda and water. Rinse repeatedly and allow to dry before painting or resealing. A fan circulating air can help with dry time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undr_psi Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 A sprayer wont do any good on block which has not been rolled before. It is true that if the paint is sprayed it may make it easier to backroll which is the process of rolling the paint on after spraying which a block surface needs. Now with basement walls, you have 1 chance to seal the block with a product like drylok. If you choose not to do it and use paint, the opportunity is lost. Just something to consider. There are also block filler paints out there which do make it a little easier to work into block. Block which has never been painted is best done with a very thick nap roller 1"+, and dont try to skimp on the quality. A cheap roller will be destroyed alot faster than a good one due to the roughness of the block. Painted block for the first time is never fun and alot of people are surprised on the amount of time and material it takes. An average gallon of paint is good for something like 350 sq ft but that goes out the door when it comes to block. Also the natural effervescants(sp) in the block(depending on age) will cause cheap or inappropriate paint to peel either quickly or overtime. Now a floor surface should have a good quality floor enamel or epoxy. The bast way to ensure this sticks is to do a moisture test first which involves taping plastic to the floor and checking it over a period of days to see if water collects under the plastic. If it does you have moisture issues and paint may not sttick. Next acid wash the floor prior to painting. Its easy but the smell may be a bit rough for a few hrs so make sure the family is gone and you have a mask on. Of course these are methods for proper procedures and are just to give the op something to consider. quoted for truth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimpsy1647545505 Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 I would just like to say Jason is a helluva painter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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