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Old project - dual engine scirocco


ansonivan

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Guest Whine
1st off cool build...i do have a question. does both transmissions shift at the same exact time. it seems if they didnt it would have torque shifting around at different times on each axle.
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I'm using cable shifted 5 speed manual transaxles from B3 passat's, I'm using a Wilwood dual cylinder brake pedal to actuate the clutches, said pedal assembly has a balance bar so I can fine tune clutch engagement.

 

So far no problems with incorrect gear engagement.

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Guest Whine
ahh, nice. i was thinking automatics. if i would have just read the whole thing instead of looking at pics. lol Edited by Whine
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how are you going to get it to the event?

 

I like the looks of the firewall! You did that beading to cut the noise down? Do you know what the shear strength of that aluminum is god forbid if the rear-engine/transmission should come loose in an altercation? What does the porsche 911/914/mr2/fiero/corvair have for firewall material?

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The plan is to tow the car to Florida using my heap of crap ford e150, van thread here: http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80438

 

The aluminum exceeds NHRA minimum thickness but there's no way it could stop a hurtling drivetrain. A pair of vertical bars between the floor and the center bar in the roll hoop would be an improvement. I'm most worried about having a flywheel come apart, puncture the aluminum and some fuel lines giving me a flaming bath. Of course this could happen just as easily on the front engine even in the stock configuration.

 

I think other mid engine cars are using stamped steel, nothing special.

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Stuck the rear engine on a dyno last night thanks to Brian at Dyno Tune Motorsports.

 

The rear engine is a mostly stock 2.0L 16v from a 1991 passat.

I have a modded exhaust cam in the intake position for more lift/duration and a slightly adjusted DPR valve. The engine is rated at 134hp crank from the factory so 133whp made me extremely happy. I'm curious to see what the front engine does.

 

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4802169400_0060bc74d8_b.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Very cool, my friend has a sirocco that he just got for $900, not sure if hes gonna put any work in or not.

 

You might not be sure about the work but the scirocco is... it's planning some creative and expensive way to break as we speak.

 

 

You ever up at sawmill?

 

I am occasionally up, as you say, at Sawmill. Not driving the scirocco though... too miserable.

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The rear suspension in the car is from an A2 golf/jetta. I swapped in the complete subframe/control arms/spindles/struts and welded a solid bar in place of the steering rack in order to lock the tie rods in place.

 

The car has always suffered from weird rear suspension behavior, mostly severe rear squirm in corners. I finally took the time to investigate, I measured the rear toe with the suspension at full bump and full droop. When measured at the tire the rear is toeing out by almost a full inch as the suspension compresses. Not good.

 

My friend Jake noticed that the rear struts have a little bit of positive caster, with his help I moved the strut top back into a slightly negative caster position and measured the dynamic toe again. Happily it stayed almost perfectly neutral through the complete range.

 

In order to correct the rear caster issue I'm going to move the sub frame forward and the strut tops back. This time I'll actually measure the caster :)

 

Full droop

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4875876847_08f0290790_b.jpg

 

Full bump

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4875877851_3e6a3c478b_b.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

With about 1 week before the 2010 begins the car is in one piece and quite drivable. This is good. The tweaks I made to the rear suspension worked, no more noticeable bump steer.

 

I picked up a basic dry nitrous setup and intend to use it on the rear engine, I have zero experience with nitrous so I fully expect to break things. The guy I bought it from was using it on an identical VW engine so the jetting should be correct.

 

Mounting will be a problem, I have a small hatch back which no longer has a hatch. I'm thinking of removing the passenger seat for the drag race and bolting the bottle to the floor. It does have a blowdown tube so it might pass tech.

 

In a perfect world I'll see high 12's with the help of the spray.

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/4999125574_811bc0de8d_z.jpg

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Just a quick thought:

 

It might be a good idea to figure a way to put the transmissions in neutral independently. That way if you have a failure at one end of the car you'll still be able to finish the competition on one engine.

 

Looks great though. I bet it's fun to drive. Those were pretty light cars to begin with.

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The 'engage' motion cables are connected to the shifter using hair pin style cotter pins, it's good for moving the car around but without both engines the car is painfully slow. With a driver it's around 3000lbs now.

 

Anyone know if IPS is filling nitrous tanks at their new location yet?

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  • 2 weeks later...

That's the car, unfortunately that was our first and worst autocross run of 43 seconds. Ended up with a 36 second run.

 

Amazing fun weekend, full story later, one picture for now.

 

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs007.ash2/33723_479071943139_66381183139_6804144_3219389_n.jpg

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