Need gun advice asap!!!

[V8 Beast]

If you have $400 for a .40 or higher caliber gun what would you get? Mostly for home defense with occasional trips to the range.

[KillJoy]

Used Glock?

 

KillJoy

[V8 Beast]

Used Glock?

 

KillJoy

 

Thats actually what I was thinking. What should I look for when inspecting a used gun?

[Guest GMoney]

Just buy new. You only save about $50

[Drewhop]

Taken from http://www.glockfaq.com

 

What do I look for when buying a used Glock?

Another GREAT article contributed by [JT].

 

Buying A Used Glock

 

Unlike many other firearms, I don't worry too much about buying a used Glock. Heck, I've even bought used parts at various times, from different sources and later pieced together a complete pistol as good as new. Many used Glocks appear to have been shot very little and don't even have holster wear. Even the ones that are known to have been holstered hundreds of times and have sent thousands of rounds downrange are usually none for the worse. I recently bought a used upper from a state police trade-in. It was perfectly functional but had some holster wear on the usual places. So I had it refinished -- for vanity reasons only (Mark Graham at Arizona Response Systems (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com) did a fine job of it -- looks better than new). Anything else, I can take care of myself.

 

Here are some tips when buying a used Glock:

 

* With the owner's permission, make sure the pistol is unloaded and then field strip the pistol. First, remove the magazine and MAKE SURE the pistol doesn't have a round chambered. Point the unloaded pistol in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Next field strip the pistol. If you don't know how to field strip a Glock pistol, read this: http://www.topglock.com/info/fieldstrip.htm

 

* Check the frame "dust cover" (the part forward of the trigger guard). Flex it a little up, down, left, right carefully looking for small cracks. There have been some complaints about small cracks on the G29 and G30 models running from the serial number plate to the end of the dust cover (although some of these seem to be misidentified mould marks). Cracks generally don't interfere with functioning, but should be replaced. A replaced slide or frame would not have a matching serial number. This may weigh heavily on whether or not you are willing to purchase this pistol, regardless of price.

 

* Inspect the frame internal parts (trigger assembly, connector, locking block, etc.). Some early pistols need to be upgraded -- the metal internal components of which typically have a black finish as opposed to the current silver finish. Look under the slide at the bottom of the firing pin lug and firing pin safety; look at the trigger bar inside the frame. If these parts are black in color, the pistol needs an upgrade kit. If the parts are dull or shiny silver, it should be fine. Another way to tell if the pistol was made before the update is that the frame serial number plate will be black as opposed to silver, which is the current configuration. If you buy a pistol that needs upgrading, you can take it to a Glock armorer or send it to the Glock Warranty Department where they will perform all the necessary upgrades at no charge.

 

See the following links for upgrade info:

http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-gupgrade.html

http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade1.html

http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade2.html

 

* Inspect the slide. Look for any obvious problems. Guide to parts: http://www.topglock.com/info/partgraphic.htm

 

* Look at the ejection port of the slide and check for cracks, especially in the area around the serial number (the thinnest part of the ejection port). Check the breech face for cracks, chips or scarring.

 

* Look at the extractor. Ensure that it is not cracked or have a chip broken off. Same for the ejector.

 

* Turn the slide over and look at the bottom. There may be two divots opposite each other on the slide rails (especially on the .40 models) -- located about even with the forward edge of the ejection port. This is called "peening" or "finning" (as Glock terms it). The locking block contacts the underside of the slide during recoil and the polymer frame flexes, causing the divoting. While unsettling, this is completely normal and eventually stops. If these peened spots are just shiny -- no problem. If the pistol has been fired a lot then they maybe indented slightly -- again no problem. If they are finned over and have a sharp edge, possibly interfering with movement of the barrel, then a Glock armorer may need to file off the fins with a diamond equaling file. However, I have never heard of a Glock with finning so bad that the slide had to be replaced. Unless it's interfering with the functioning of the pistol, don't worry about it -- Glock considers it SOP.

 

* Check to make sure that the recoil spring receptacle or "tab" on the front of the slide (the hole that the recoil spring guide goes through when you cycle the slide) is in direct line with the rest of the front of the slide. If it is bent back, then someone probably dropped it nose-first on a hard surface. This can cause malfunctions.

 

* Inspect the barrel for any anomalies. Check for a "ringed" barrel -- that is where a "squib" load has lodged a bullet in the barrel and then another non-squib bullet is fired behind the obstruction causing a "ring" inside the barrel. Hold the barrel up to the light and check the rifling -- should be a smooth, six-sided helix (eight-sided profile for .45 models) from the chamber all the way to the muzzle, without interruption. If the pistol hasn't been fired much, you may see some Tenifer (the metal treatment used by Glock) that has become brittled inside the barrel. This looks like pitting, but will completely disappear in time and is nothing to worry about. Glock considers this normal when it occurs.

 

* Also check the recoil spring. Ensure that the pistol is unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Point the muzzle at the ceiling, pull the slide to the rear and slowly ride it forward. The spring should close the slide completely. If it hangs up out of battery, the spring may need to be replaced. Also look at the rear of the recoil spring guide for cracks or chips.

 

Personally, if the slide or frame is cracked, I'd pass on a pistol unless I can get a steal. Then you can have Glock replace the cracked part -- usually for nothing if there is no evidence of abuse. Everything else is easy and cheap to fix, but gives you room to negotiate the price with the seller. I haven't seen too many used Glocks that I wouldn't make some kind of offer for -- because they go on and on and on ... [pink bunny, stage left].

 

 

Taken from another forum.

[cinergi]

Get a Glock or an S&W MP. You are wasting your time with anything else.

[smokin5s]

home defense = 12gauge

[Bam]

i'll sell you an m&p compact 40c for $400. lol i kid i kid Edited March 24, 2010 by Bam

[Evolved8]

Either a S&W M&P or a Springfield XD for the money

[evan9381]

i'll sell you an m&p compact 40c for $400.

 

you finally bought one and now selling it? lol

[caseyctsv]

Always concerned when someone asks for gun advice ASAP! Don't go postal man...

[BloodRed]

home defense = 12gauge

 

+1

 

And it saved you about $100-150 for the best home defense gun.

[cinergi]

A shotgun is always best and serves several purposes including a club if you just want to bash shit and break bones--I fill some of my home defense shotgun stocks with lead. I didn't sugest a shotgun because he asked about a hand gun caliber.

[KennyFKINPowerz]

With 400 you will probably need to look at a Springfield XD if your looking new. I personally think Glock is a better gun as I have owned several Glocks and Springfields but you probably wont find a new Glock for that money. However I have been carrying a Springfield XD .45 as my cc weapon and I really like it a lot. Springfield has come a long way.

[RC K9]

New glock if you have a freind that is Military, Police, EMS, or Firefighter. $425 out the door with 3 mags.

[undr_psi]

Springfield XDm ... you can shoot mine and see if ya like it

[V8 Beast]

Glock and Sig then moving on to AR's.

[Scotty2Hotty]

Glock and Sig then moving on to AR's.

 

Good choices.

[dragknee66]

New Glock yes sir

[V8 Beast]

I wanted to start with a 9mm and move my way up. My last few times at the range I put 1 pullet in the chamber and aim for the bullseye. Once I can do that 15 times in a row without missing I'll get the glock 40 and or 45. After I get comfortable with that one I'll move to ar's. I know I could just get one now but it forces me to get extra comfortable with my sig first.

[sol740]

A glock and a 12 gauge.

[EVIL1]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/HOSTIL1/Gifs/dca8hh.gif

 

LOL,, But seriously Glocks are nice. I like XDs also. I have an XD 357SIG that has never malfunctioned in any way in over 5,000 rounds.

[stolen 5.0]

I got my glock 22 .40 for $400 used and my glock 23 .40 for $350 used with 3 mags and concealed holster.

[LJ]

I wanted to start with a 9mm and move my way up. My last few times at the range I put 1 pullet in the chamber and aim for the bullseye. Once I can do that 15 times in a row without missing I'll get the glock 40 and or 45. After I get comfortable with that one I'll move to ar's. I know I could just get one now but it forces me to get extra comfortable with my sig first.

 

Well... .45 is more accurate than 9mm. It's a heavier slower bullet. So if you become proficient with a 9mm a .45 would make you shit your pants on how accurate you can be with it.

[V8 Beast]

Well... .45 is more accurate than 9mm. It's a heavier slower bullet. So if you become proficient with a 9mm a .45 would make you shit your pants on how accurate you can be with it.

 

Awesome!