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FS: 5.0+TKO and "swap kit"


Science Abuse

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The hell does "Swap Kit" mean?

 

It means that I'm selling the whole bloody car (1991 cougar), but its a bit of a niche car and I realize that I may not move it "as a car", so I got this idea:

 

I drive the car to your shop, where I remove the;

Wheels

Brakes

Hubs/spindles

Shocks

Springs

Differential

 

.. and I keeps them. You keep the entire rest of the car (and title) to do whatever the hell you want, part it out if you like. You get a great engine and trans and everything you (should) need to get it running in your project.

 

What's worth a shit in this particular car?

 

5.0 Block:

fully machined (deck squared, line honed, balanced)

ARP wave lock rod bolts

ARP main Studs

FMS oil pump with hardened ARP shaft

Crane cams double roller Timing chain

FMS f-303 cam shaft

 

Heads:

Ported E7te castings

Multi-angle valve job

Milled to 58cc chambers

TFS double valve springs

TFS chromoly locks and retainers

Teflon valve stem seals

ARP head bolts

 

Intake:

FMS cobra upper and lower intake manifolds

FMS 65mm throttle body

SN95 70mm air meter with cold air intake and K&N filter

 

Exhaust:

MAC 1 1/2\" primary shorty headers (chrome)

Off-road Downtubes (2 1/2\")

3.5" single exhaust and Y-pipe.

 

Cooling system:

"NASCAR" Aluminum 3+ inch thick sun'of'a'bitch with electric fan. Never broke 180 on any summer lapping day.

 

Fuel system:

BBK 190lph in-tank fuel pump

flow-matched 19lb injectors

 

Drive Line:

TKO 5spd trans & fresh clutch

Scattersheild

One Piece Aluminum drive shaft if you want it, will likely be too long for any application other than an MN12.

 

Ignition:

Crane fireball coil

FMS 9mm plug wires

Braille no-weight Battery

 

misc:

A/C and Smog pump (and equipment) removed

 

Cosmetically the car is good, front end, rear end, hood, trunk lid, all should fetch you money if you choose to part them out. There is no interior to speak of, though the airbag is still there and good.

 

Problems: If I let it sit for a couple of days (or months, as is the normal case), it needs a jump to get it going. I have a jump box that makes this easy, so I never got 'round to pinning out the voltage loss.

 

Or crush it.

 

 

$2500. At that price it's like buying a TKO/clutch/sheild and getting the engine and all the other stuff for free.

 

P.S. Don't ask me if I'll part it out myself. I rent my place and can't part a car out here.

Edited by Science Abuse
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