Need crank pulley removal help. LS1

[TurboGoKart]

I'm seriously about to burn my car down haha. I'm using a 3 jaw puller, and I'd like to believe this is my problem. I cannot for the life of me get this damn thing off. My pulley came apart (the outside metal part came off where the rubber is, and I just have the inner piece bolted on to the crank). I dont know if it's easier on a pulley that hasn't come apart, but does anyone have any tips, tricks, or better tools to use to get the pulley off???

 

Its really a problem with getting the puller to a point where it's actually pulling, not just moving, if that makes any sense. I'll pay someone to come do this. Yes, it's come down to that lol.

[nurkvinny]

You probably already did this, but there are tons of sites (like LS1tech) that have very thorough write-ups and hints for what you are doing.

[99ta]

tourch to heat it up.....

[TurboGoKart]

The problem is getting the puller to even hook and not pull off when i try to pull it. I think the puller is too big for inside the pulley, but too small for outside the pulley.

[Cordell]

There is a special puller for gripping the 3 little tabs on the inside of the balancer, I have a universal 3 jaw that I use on these but the special tool works much better.

 

Mine looks like this.

http://image.carcraft.com/f/9203796+w750+st0/116_0502_08_z+ls1_cam_swap+harmonic_balancer_pull.jpg

 

The special tool which is a little nicer is smaller like this one.

http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/otc-6667.gif

[acklac7]

screw the jaw puller and rent a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller from Autozone/Oriely/Advanced.

 

http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/00947626000?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

[rl]

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=77379&group_ID=12560

[Cordell]

screw the jaw puller and rent a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller from Autozone/Oriely/Advanced.

 

http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/00947626000?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

 

There are no holes on a stock LS1 balancer for bolts to thread into, try again.

[rl]

screw the jaw puller and rent a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller from Autozone/Oriely/Advanced.

 

 

Those balancers are made to be pulled with a 3 jaw puller.

[TurboGoKart]

There are no holes on a stock LS1 balancer for bolts to thread into, try again.

 

Exactly.

 

Judging from that picture, my problem is I got a 3 jaw that was too big. Lol. I'll go back to Vatozone and grab the next size down. So for those that actually use the search function, you can't use the 5 ton 3 jaw puller from Vatozone on an LS1 pulley lol.

[Brandon]

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=77379&group_ID=12560

 

That is the one I have.

[Mattsv8]

me too.

[gillbot]

I have the three piece set from Harbor Freight and it comes with the smaller one that works on the LS1 style.

[rl]

That is the one I have.[/Quote]

 

I have 3 in stock.

[TurboGoKart]

Yeah, smaller puller, and it was off in 5 mins. Are most people getting the longer bolt to press the pulley back on? Or *cringe* tapping it back on until the stock bolt will thread back in?

 

Longer bolt I believe is 16mm, 2.0 thread pitch, 120mm long.

[Richard Cranium]

Don't tap it back on. You run the risk of it not going on straight and screwing up the crank snout. Or worse ruining the thrust bearing. Is the threading in the crank snout the same as an LT1? If it is I have some threaded rod I can loan you to use to press it back on.

[Brandon]

Don't tap it back on. You run the risk of it not going on straight and screwing up the crank snout. Or worse ruining the thrust bearing. Is the threading in the crank snout the same as an LT1? If it is I have some threaded rod I can loan you to use to press it back on.

 

Just get a long bolt and roller bearing which you can place against the pulley then thread the nut down the bolt pressing the pulley on, I think Northern tools has this exact tool for 25 dollars or so.

[Cordell]

Yeah, smaller puller, and it was off in 5 mins. Are most people getting the longer bolt to press the pulley back on? Or *cringe* tapping it back on until the stock bolt will thread back in?

 

Longer bolt I believe is 16mm, 2.0 thread pitch, 120mm long.

 

This sounds right, there are balancer installers out there which is what I have, however most of them don't include that size. Just go get a longer bolt it does the same thing as a balancer installer.

 

Check out Metro Industies on Goodale, I bet they have the biggest supply of Metric bolts in Columbus. I got a couple different lengths of that size when i did my first cam install. You'll find that bolt is not easy to come by.

[TurboGoKart]

So I've found tonight. Lol. Home Depot actually had the exact bolt, but only as long as 90mm.

 

Would anyone want to come over to the Grove City area tomorrow afternoon/evening and help me get it back on? Anyone with an installer that is. Or would I be able to borrow anyone's installer/longer bolt? This is the only thing stopping me from driving my car haha.

[TurboGoKart]

Nevermind. Fastenal in Hilliard had the bolt I needed. Now just need to torque to 240, remove, torque to 37, then 140*. This freakin 240ft/lbs is making me all kinds of nervous haha. I don't want to break anything! :pussy:

[Cordell]

Just get the balancer pressed on all the way, and then install the new bolt and just get the balancer bolt as tight as you can get it. I use a breaker bar with a pipe over the handle and get everything as tight as I can, the angle spec is about impossible to achive. People may argue with me about this method but it has worked with out issue on numerous cars. You'd be better off pinning the balancer and using an ARP bolt, but if you're going to use a new factory bolt that is how I'd do it.

[TurboGoKart]

See, I was just turning it with the breaker bar, the new bolt, and it seems like it keeps going and going lol. I'm starting to wonder if maybe I didn't get it torqued all the way down the first time?? I used red loctite on the bolt, but I've never had that make it thread in any easier. I'm using a 2ft breaker bar. I don't want to break anything though.

 

Is there any way I could check to make sure I've got it tight enough? Can I try torquing the new bolt to a certain ft/lb?

[Cordell]

See, I was just turning it with the breaker bar, the new bolt, and it seems like it keeps going and going lol. I'm starting to wonder if maybe I didn't get it torqued all the way down the first time?? I used red loctite on the bolt, but I've never had that make it thread in any easier. I'm using a 2ft breaker bar. I don't want to break anything though.

 

Is there any way I could check to make sure I've got it tight enough? Can I try torquing the new bolt to a certain ft/lb?

 

Not sure why it would feel that way, unless the balancer wasn't on all the way. There is no need for additional locktight, but I don't think that would cause a problem. You could always take a torque wrench and get an idea of where you're at, but torque to yeild bolts don't work that way hence why they give you a starting point (small torque spec) and then an angle (where the engineers figure the maximum yeild is). So there is no way of knowing about where that torque would be.

 

Is it getting tight? or is the balancer pulling on farther?

[acklac7]

I'm using a 2ft breaker bar.

 

Not sure if this helps any but I had to use a 2' breaker bar with a 4' extension (6' total) to get the crank bolt loose/tight on my Lexus (2jz). Factory torque spec was close to 400 ft/lbs as I recall.

[TurboGoKart]

Balancer isn't pulling any further in. Seems like it's getting tighter now. You'd think I've never built a motor or worked on a ca with how much of a wet noodle I'm being haha.