Sully Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 The A/C in my CRX doesn't work. It just blows hot air. I've been doing some research and it looks very costly to switch the system over to R134A. I heard that R12 is attainable by someone who is licensed to do so. I don't want to drop a ton of money in this beater, so I think recharging with R12 is the way to go, if it's possible. So, does anyone know who can do this and roughly what it might cost to have it recharged with R12? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattKatz Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Don't even bother, the cost of the hard to attain R12 will outweight the changeover cost to 134a. Have you remedied the problem that caused you to lose your charge in the first place? Do you have a new drier ready to install for either charge? If you answer no to either of these questions, you're not ready to go yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 It's a CRX... just put the windows down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Don't even bother, the cost of the hard to attain R12 will outweight the changeover cost to 134a. Have you remedied the problem that caused you to lose your charge in the first place? Do you have a new drier ready to install for either charge? If you answer no to either of these questions, you're not ready to go yet. I just bought the car in March. I don't know if it leaked out or if it was evacuated when the engine was rebuilt last summer. I do not have a new drier. How or where would I obtain one for this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 It's a CRX... just put the windows down. 2-60 air is fine when you're cruising down the highway. It doesn't work well when driving in stop and go traffic. I walked into work a couple days last week with my shirt completely soaked from sweat and it's only a 9 mile drive. I just figured if I can get this done fairly inexpensively, then I'd do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurkvinny Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 I have to imagine switching is cheaper. Back when we still had some R12 left, we sold the last of it at something like 20x the "old" retail. How much are you finding the swap kits for? They didn't used to be that insane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattKatz Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Swap kits are cheap, R12 can be $30-50 a 12oz can or more. Whole swap kits can be done for like $30 I think. Your gonna need to figure out if the system has leaks first anyway, which liky it does at seal points being that old. He'll, you might be lucky if the compressor isn't trashed too. Gonna be a bit more than your thinking to get it back up and running. I'm a commercial HvAC tech, nit automotive so not sure what it's gonna cost you, but it definately depends on what's it needs to get it back up to snuff and sealed. Keeping the refrigerant in and moisture free is the key IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I have to imagine switching is cheaper. Back when we still had some R12 left, we sold the last of it at something like 20x the "old" retail. How much are you finding the swap kits for? They didn't used to be that insane. I haven't found swap kits, but from what I'm reading, most every component needs to be replaced because if you don't, the R134A doesn't work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Does anyone have experience with or heard of Freeze 12? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erica Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 You can find it on craigslist at times, we still have a machine and a "private" stock of R12, as mentioned above, since it is not manufactured you can charge whatever you want literally and get away with it as long as people are willing to pay it. -Crossle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Does anyone have experience with or heard of Freeze 12? Yes, don't do it! It is a blend of "stuff" (R22-bad for rubber hoses) and mostly 134a. Should have it's own proprietary fittings and voids warranty of almost every compressor manufacturer. Some other blends use some interesting ingredients like propane and butane - great refrigerants if not for the explosive issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) I haven't found swap kits, but from what I'm reading, most every component needs to be replaced because if you don't, the R134A doesn't work well. R134a conversion will be a little less efficient - if done right duct temps will be within a few degrees of R12. On a Honda with a TXV system, it should be very close. System will need to be flushed and a new dryer installed - other components will be OK. Some suggest changing all o-rings, but experience has shown this typically not to be a problem. You will also need the correct fittings (adapters) installed for 134a. Finally, add the correct PAG oil and charge. Usually start at 90-95% of the 134a charge and add as you check system temperatures (NOT duct temps). Edited June 13, 2011 by craig71188 more thoughts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Have you remedied the problem that caused you to lose your charge in the first place? One last thought - you do need to fix the leak first. DO NOT USE SEALER!!! Sealants: a) do not work, b) void all manufacturers warranty, c) will eventually have you replacing EVERYTHING in the system. Think of it this way - no one that makes/sells sealers sells a/c parts or compressors. As one of our trainers put it - "if sealants were the answer, we'd pack a can in every compresser". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Ok, so what all would I need to convert to R134a on this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRed05 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I am licensed to purchase R12...I'll need to dig for my card though, no idea where it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Ok, so what all would I need to convert to R134a on this car? 1) Good quality flush (not FJC) 2) New receiver/dryer 3) R134a adapter fittings 4) PAG Oil (Honda likes to use the "46" weight)-DO NOT GET "universal" PAG 5) R134a refrigerant As has been asked before - do you know where the leak was/is? You can open the system, flush it well, install the new dryer and fittings and vacuum out the system. See if it holds a vacuum. If so, charge it with a can of refirgerant and check for leaks (electronic checker-immediatly, or if you use dye, it will need to run for a day or so to see it show up. If using dye, you almost need to fully charge the system to be sure oil circulates to the compressor). If you're satified it's not leaking, charge the system. Temp testing the system for performance is the best way to insure proper charge and component function - too long to explain how to do it on a TXV system here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 So, I need to take the car somewhere and have them evacuate the system. Where could I go to have this done? Does a shop have to have an R12 evac system or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 So, I need to take the car somewhere and have them evacuate the system. Where could I go to have this done? Does a shop have to have an R12 evac system or something? The question is: "Is there any R12 left in the system?". If yes, it should go to a shop w/R12 recovery equipment and have it taken out first. If no, just go ahead and open the system, flush, install new components, then have it evacuated and charged w/R134a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 The question is: "Is there any R12 left in the system?". If yes, it should go to a shop w/R12 recovery equipment and have it taken out first. If no, just go ahead and open the system, flush, install new components, then have it evacuated and charged w/R134a Ok, so how do I open the system? And how do I flush the system? Edit: The better question is how do I find out if there is any R12 left in the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Ok, so how do I open the system? And how do I flush the system? Edit: The better question is how do I find out if there is any R12 left in the system? 1) Best bet is to get someone to do it for you 2) Check for R12 (more or less) - look for one of the service ports (threaded-may still have plastic cap on it), depress schrader valve with LONG screwdriver briefly and see if there is still pressure in system (better yet-hook up a set of gauges) (see #1) 3) To Flush: cheapest way- Flush Gun, better way, update flush tool or machine (see #1) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 1) Best bet is to get someone to do it for you 2) Check for R12 (more or less) - look for one of the service ports (threaded-may still have plastic cap on it), depress schrader valve with LONG screwdriver briefly and see if there is still pressure in system (better yet-hook up a set of gauges) (see #1) 3) To Flush: cheapest way- Flush Gun, better way, update flush tool or machine (see #1) HAHA.. Cool. Thanks. I guess I just need to start calling some shops to see if they can check/evac the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codyh Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I just happen to have 2 30lbs cases of r12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Spam Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I just happen to have 2 30lbs cases of r12 What are you a cop now brah? :fuuuu: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codyh Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 It's not against the law to own it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SinisterSS Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 I was at the parts store and R134a went up in price, 1 12oz can is $16.99 a complete conversion kit is now $89.99. I heard the EPA wants to do the same with R134a like they did R12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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