GSXRAntwon Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Boost it with one of Chads kits and be DONE with it, until you build the motor that is. fuck nawz fuck H/C/I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Boost it with one of Chads kits and be DONE with it, until you build the motor that is. fuck nawz fuck H/C/I I still need to see one of the kits for quality, fit, and finish. To be honest after looking at all the angles I might just do heads and cam for now. I don't have rich person problems, I have real person problems so I can't justifiy going into huge debt for a build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbot Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I still need to see one of the kits for quality, fit, and finish. To be honest after looking at all the angles I might just do heads and cam for now. I don't have rich person problems, I have real person problems so I can't justifiy going into huge debt for a build. That's why i'm spraying mine. If the tranny or rear takes a shit i'll just not do that again. Luckily I have a spare rear to throw in, been looking for a rebuild-able trans to have in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Pomade Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I still need to see one of the kits for quality, fit, and finish. To be honest after looking at all the angles I might just do heads and cam for now. I don't have rich person problems, I have real person problems so I can't justifiy going into huge debt for a build. Heads and cam are going to affect streetability. If you're looking for 10s with a heads/cam package, then you're going to have to be fairly aggressive with the heads/cam, which will definitely affect streetability. I remember my cam - which wasn't very aggressive at all - resulted in me being unable to turn on my A/C without the car stalling out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Jones Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I remember my cam - which wasn't very aggressive at all - resulted in me being unable to turn on my A/C without the car stalling out. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qt1fJRoW0EE/TvJCPbaCLFI/AAAAAAAAAp0/ui8PS9o9U14/s1600/say-what-118749-463-700.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Heads and cam are going to affect streetability. If you're looking for 10s with a heads/cam package, then you're going to have to be fairly aggressive with the heads/cam, which will definitely affect streetability. I remember my cam - which wasn't very aggressive at all - resulted in me being unable to turn on my A/C without the car stalling out. Looking at the goals for the car if I go H/C the 10's will not be realistic for the sake of streetability. I have been looking into what a H/C car can do without gutting the car or making it impossible to drive on the street. The cam will be a custom grind to make sure I get power where I want and not for sound or big HP numbers. Right now I am planning a meeting with my crew chief to figure out what can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbracing81 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I'm assuming since you have other cars you dont need a/c and the such, so do yourself a favor and gut that bitch[/color]. [/color][/b]Seeing as your car t tops and. What not, it would take a little more work, but I got my car down to 3000 and it still looks like I have a full interior. After talking to a couple of guys from comp, I told them just running the car off the converter, I wanted it in the mid 11's . After they did some reaserch or whatever they do, they gave me a cam recomendation, that let's just say isn't nearly as big as I was figuring I would need. That weight makes a difference. Looks like he has a real nice car. I know I wouldn't give up my a/c or radio or any comforts for the sake of going faster. Most accessories only eat about 35 HP combined. The a/c only eats up lots of power when it is running. So to compensate for the loss he can run a 175 shot instead of a 150 and turn the a/c off till the ass kicking is finished. Nothing like stomping the mud out of some guy sweating his ass off while you're rolling down the road rocking some John Denver with your frosty windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Pomade Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qt1fJRoW0EE/TvJCPbaCLFI/AAAAAAAAAp0/ui8PS9o9U14/s1600/say-what-118749-463-700.jpg That was exactly what I looked like when it happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate1647545505 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Heads and cam are going to affect streetability. If you're looking for 10s with a heads/cam package, then you're going to have to be fairly aggressive with the heads/cam, which will definitely affect streetability. I remember my cam - which wasn't very aggressive at all - resulted in me being unable to turn on my A/C without the car stalling out. That is extremely odd as GM V8 cal's have most of their idle and associated modifiers mapped out. (e.g. there exists a basic target idle speed vs AC on/off vs in gear/PN table) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Pomade Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 That is extremely odd as GM V8 cal's have most of their idle and associated modifiers mapped out. (e.g. there exists a basic target idle speed vs AC on/off vs in gear/PN table) Maybe then the problem was the tune? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate1647545505 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 If there wasn't any time commited or the assumption was made there wouldn't be any problems, could have been. The adaptive idle can work with some very large cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Looking at the goals for the car if I go H/C the 10's will not be realistic for the sake of streetability. I have been looking into what a H/C car can do without gutting the car or making it impossible to drive on the street. The cam will be a custom grind to make sure I get power where I want and not for sound or big HP numbers. Right now I am planning a meeting with my crew chief to figure out what can be done. Makes cents, however it sounds like the turbo kit wouldn't be much more cash up front and wouldn't really affect drivability at all at a reasonable boost level. Seems like a low boost turbo car should have no issues going 10's. Having done a complete N/A street car in the past I would go boost every time in the interest of retaining street manners. My old fox made around 400hp N/A but could be a pain to drive regularly in traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSXRAntwon Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I still need to see one of the kits for quality, fit, and finish. To be honest after looking at all the angles I might just do heads and cam for now. I don't have rich person problems, I have real person problems so I can't justifiy going into huge debt for a build. As they say, if you cant pay you cant play. Chads kits will be perfect (as you've probably seen his other kits) in fit and finish. His kits are to be under $2000, tell me how much a good H/C costs? about that much or more. Run around on 5-7psi, add some rod bolts (Katech) and make the power you want and need to go 10s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 As they say, if you cant pay you cant play. Chads kits will be perfect (as you've probably seen his other kits) in fit and finish. His kits are to be under $2000, tell me how much a good H/C costs? about that much or more. Run around on 5-7psi, add some rod bolts (Katech) and make the power you want and need to go 10s Oh trust me I know the cost to play (just purchased the 9inch for the car). As for Chad's stuff, I have no experience with him or his products. I have done some research on what he makes for mustangs, but want to see the product in person since he is local. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSXRAntwon Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Oh trust me I know the cost to play (just purchased the 9inch for the car). As for Chad's stuff, I have no experience with him or his products. I have done some research on what he makes for mustangs, but want to see the product in person since he is local. I hear ya, Im waiting on some parts from him now. His products have came a long way in the past few years and are the best alternative to $6-10k kits out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I hear ya, Im waiting on some parts from him now. His products have came a long way in the past few years and are the best alternative to $6-10k kits out there You are right there, and if he can provide a quality kit at an good price I have no problem buying from him. You learn from experience and I have been burnt before. I have also learned from other people's mcsteaks and throwing a wallet at a car does not mean you will reach your goals. That is why I am asking tons of questions from those who have experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Heads and cam are going to affect streetability. If you're looking for 10s with a heads/cam package, then you're going to have to be fairly aggressive with the heads/cam, which will definitely affect streetability. I remember my cam - which wasn't very aggressive at all - resulted in me being unable to turn on my A/C without the car stalling out. +1 the cam was the only thing I wish I didn't do on my supercharged, heads, cam, intake, full exhaust fox and it was a pretty mild one... well that and ditching the tailpipes and dumping the exhaust to fit bigger slicks... both got old fast for a daily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 +1 the cam was the only thing I wish I didn't do on my supercharged, heads, cam, intake, full exhaust fox and it was a pretty mild one... well that and ditching the tailpipes and dumping the exhaust to fit bigger slicks... both got old fast for a daily. This. Boost = less cam overlap needed to reach your goal and better torque from filling smaller intake ports. All of that = better driveability. Port velocity is key on a street car and there's no better way than to force that shit in there... Real Talk. I've done it the hard way too many times. The best part about it is that if you fall a little short of your goal you can just up the boost for essentially free...assuming your internals will hold. :no: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littleguy Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 So, are there any threads about the LSX kit Chad is making, or any place to get some info? I'm really glad I saw this thread because I'm pretty much at the same crossroads with the GTO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 So, are there any threads about the LSX kit Chad is making, or any place to get some info? I'm really glad I saw this thread because I'm pretty much at the same crossroads with the GTO. I believe MattsV8 owns the mockup car. There is a build thread on here I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Come pick up my D1 setup and drive right into the 10's with the stock bottom end. Added bonus of sweet squealing and chirping of the stealth D1! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pontiacfreak142 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Looks like he has a real nice car. I know I wouldn't give up my a/c or radio or any comforts for the sake of going faster. Most accessories only eat about 35 HP combined. The a/c only eats up lots of power when it is running. So to compensate for the loss he can run a 175 shot instead of a 150 and turn the a/c off till the ass kicking is finished. Nothing like stomping the mud out of some guy sweating his ass off while you're rolling down the road rocking some John Denver with your frosty windows. True lol. I was saying do this if he was gonna try to get as close to 10's as possible NA. Yea there are little in the way of power gains, but I was meaning it more in the way of weight savings. Obviously the weight savings is only as good if your willing to lose that sort of stuff. My a/c didn't work and half my speakers were blown, so it wasn't worth it to me replace them since I had a dd so it all went to the trash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbot Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Maybe then the problem was the tune? Yep, I have no problems with AC on my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Formula Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Cam/125 shot is easy tens and fairly cheap compared to turbo. This setup went 10.80s@125 for me with stock transmission and ten bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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